-nick

Is it even worth trying to protect tin that is already more-than-surface rusty?

The rear-most engine tin lists for an outrageous $724 at Pelican. Mine has a rusty hole at the cat side. I have a pint of POR15 doing nothing. Is it hot enough to burn off the POR15 near the cat though?

tbennett017

I used it as a paint prep... ground off what I could with a wire brush, then POR-15, then primer and battleship gray Rust-Oleum. It seems to be working so far.

Geoffrey

sandblast and powdercoat

Marc Shaw

I pc'd my tin but did use POR 15 on the oil tank level cover (right rear wheel well) as well as the fuel pump cover.

I did this several years ago and no rust issues there since.

Marc

springer3

If you do a search I am sure you will see plenty of opinions on POR-15 and other latex-based "rust converters". The objective tests say they do not work, and I base my opinion on that. Industrial MRO (maint&repair organization) products are the best because they get used where it really matters - factory structures. MRO products come with instructions, including surface prep.

Patch the holes with galvanized steel sheet. 18 gage is what is there best I can tell. Hardware stores sell 20 gage (one size thinner) sheet steel for roof flashing. That works fine as a patch to stop the hot-air leaks into the engine compartment. Structural epoxy and steel pop rivets will keep patches in place, especially if you stop the rust first.

pete000

+1

I just did this job, came out so nice !