Brake Time. 1991 C2 Coupe
06-03-2009, 03:23 PM
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Brake Time. 1991 C2 Coupe
Hey Guys,
My pad warning light just came on, so I am about to take on my 1st brake job. I am planning on replacing all the pads (Front and rear) as well my rear rotors. (The fronts rotors seem OK.) I am also going to bleed the brakes. My car is a street only daily driver. No track days.
I have a few questions:
1. Is it OK to mix front and rear pads? For example metal master fronts, and OEM rears? (I don't think they make Metal Master rear pads for a 91 C2... If they do, where are they available?)
2. My front rotors have a very slight lip on the edge. Should I get them machined down so they are perfectly flat, or is this OK?
3. I am planning on going with Zimmerman solid rear rotors. They seem cheap. Is there another brand I should look at?
4. I don't have a brake bleeder. Is there a certain type that you guys would recommend, and where to buy it?
5. Since my car is street only, is there a need for high quality race brake fluid such as Super Blue? I wonder if I will see any benefit vs. the basic fluid.
Thanks a bunch for the info.
Rob.
My pad warning light just came on, so I am about to take on my 1st brake job. I am planning on replacing all the pads (Front and rear) as well my rear rotors. (The fronts rotors seem OK.) I am also going to bleed the brakes. My car is a street only daily driver. No track days.
I have a few questions:
1. Is it OK to mix front and rear pads? For example metal master fronts, and OEM rears? (I don't think they make Metal Master rear pads for a 91 C2... If they do, where are they available?)
2. My front rotors have a very slight lip on the edge. Should I get them machined down so they are perfectly flat, or is this OK?
3. I am planning on going with Zimmerman solid rear rotors. They seem cheap. Is there another brand I should look at?
4. I don't have a brake bleeder. Is there a certain type that you guys would recommend, and where to buy it?
5. Since my car is street only, is there a need for high quality race brake fluid such as Super Blue? I wonder if I will see any benefit vs. the basic fluid.
Thanks a bunch for the info.
Rob.
06-03-2009, 04:48 PM
#2
1. I wouldn't. I stick with OEM parts to avoid noise, as well.
2. Make sure you are not too close to minimum thickness and the lip is okay.
3. OEM. They have painted/coated hats that don't rust.
4. Motive power bleeder. www.paragon-products.com
5. I would (and do) use the ATE fluid.
2. Make sure you are not too close to minimum thickness and the lip is okay.
3. OEM. They have painted/coated hats that don't rust.
4. Motive power bleeder. www.paragon-products.com
5. I would (and do) use the ATE fluid.
06-03-2009, 04:58 PM
#3
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Hi Rob.
I found a good place in Vancouver for ATE Blue, and their prices are unbeatable. Give Frank at Drivers Edge Autosport a call 604 298 5575 or www.driversedgeautosport.com, he wil be able to help you out. No affiliation. And please get the MOTIVE brake bleeder.
I found a good place in Vancouver for ATE Blue, and their prices are unbeatable. Give Frank at Drivers Edge Autosport a call 604 298 5575 or www.driversedgeautosport.com, he wil be able to help you out. No affiliation. And please get the MOTIVE brake bleeder.
06-03-2009, 07:46 PM
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Here's my take.....
1. Is it OK to mix front and rear pads? For example metal master fronts, and OEM rears? I assume that the rears are 2-pot calipers, if so mixing is OK - I used to DE that way before changing out the rears to 4-pots.
2. My front rotors have a very slight lip on the edge. Should I get them machined down so they are perfectly flat, or is this OK? As posted above, if still above min thickness, just leave it alone.
3. I am planning on going with Zimmerman solid rear rotors. They seem cheap. Is there another brand I should look at? Lot of posts lately - Zimmermans are OK, but they rust so paint the hats. There were other mfgr's listed in the posts.
4. I don't have a brake bleeder. Is there a certain type that you guys would recommend, and where to buy it? I too recommend Motive
5. Since my car is street only, is there a need for high quality race brake fluid such as Super Blue? I wonder if I will see any benefit vs. the basic fluid. Basic is OK - you should change AT LEAST once a year.
1. Is it OK to mix front and rear pads? For example metal master fronts, and OEM rears? I assume that the rears are 2-pot calipers, if so mixing is OK - I used to DE that way before changing out the rears to 4-pots.
2. My front rotors have a very slight lip on the edge. Should I get them machined down so they are perfectly flat, or is this OK? As posted above, if still above min thickness, just leave it alone.
3. I am planning on going with Zimmerman solid rear rotors. They seem cheap. Is there another brand I should look at? Lot of posts lately - Zimmermans are OK, but they rust so paint the hats. There were other mfgr's listed in the posts.
4. I don't have a brake bleeder. Is there a certain type that you guys would recommend, and where to buy it? I too recommend Motive
5. Since my car is street only, is there a need for high quality race brake fluid such as Super Blue? I wonder if I will see any benefit vs. the basic fluid. Basic is OK - you should change AT LEAST once a year.
06-03-2009, 09:19 PM
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All the above is excellent advice. One tip: The rear calipers are held onto the bracket by two 10mm socket-head bolts. The top one is easily accessible; the bottom one... ah, not so much. To remove the rear rotors, you'll need a long (8") 10mm hex, generally available at any tool place although I made mine from a long hex-head thingie, cut off the 90-degree angle piece, and inserted it into a 10mm socket. The bottom hex-head caliper bolt is accessed through the lower control arm (there's a hole for it). Having the car on a lift makes this a whole lot easier. Changing the pads is a cinch; watch out for the wear indicators... they break easily.
06-03-2009, 10:29 PM
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Rob,
Check out the post on Zimmerman drilled rotors. I just went through the same thing on my 89 C4. I changed out all four rotors (went to zimmerman drilled) which I am in the process of painting while they are on the car, all new pads (went with OEM textar pads) and put on steel brake lines. I do track my car and the OEM pads work very well for occasional DE's, I find anyways. There are pics on my post, and the lower hex bolt's for the rear calibers are a b*itch to get off because of the funny angle. There are also two screws that hold each rotor on to the hub, they are very soft, you may have to use an impact screw driver to get them off. The power bleeder is also a must. After I figured out how to properly use it, it is well worth the money.
Good Luck!
Check out the post on Zimmerman drilled rotors. I just went through the same thing on my 89 C4. I changed out all four rotors (went to zimmerman drilled) which I am in the process of painting while they are on the car, all new pads (went with OEM textar pads) and put on steel brake lines. I do track my car and the OEM pads work very well for occasional DE's, I find anyways. There are pics on my post, and the lower hex bolt's for the rear calibers are a b*itch to get off because of the funny angle. There are also two screws that hold each rotor on to the hub, they are very soft, you may have to use an impact screw driver to get them off. The power bleeder is also a must. After I figured out how to properly use it, it is well worth the money.
Good Luck!
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06-04-2009, 10:22 AM
#8
You can buy OEM rotors from Sunset for little, if any, more then the Zimmermans. Some of the Zims are painted now, but I say be safe and go with the OEM. I painted the Zimmermans that the PO put on my 993, but the factory ones are better.