Transmission Oil Leak
06-05-2009, 12:06 AM
#16
They both look very much the same! I have the advantage of having the full shop manual and could see both at once.
I hadn't realized there was a shift rod adjustment . . . thanks for pointing that out! :-)
I hadn't realized there was a shift rod adjustment . . . thanks for pointing that out! :-)
06-05-2009, 01:52 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
dfinnegan:
Thanks for the explaination and references. My car is a 93' RS America (C2) delivered with option 220 LSD. I was told by Greg Fordahl who completed the race car build that the LSD had been reworked as a Porsche Motorsports Cup Car LSD. I guess what I really need to know is if i screwed up the adjustment by tightening the outer nut?
JF
Thanks for the explaination and references. My car is a 93' RS America (C2) delivered with option 220 LSD. I was told by Greg Fordahl who completed the race car build that the LSD had been reworked as a Porsche Motorsports Cup Car LSD. I guess what I really need to know is if i screwed up the adjustment by tightening the outer nut?
JF
06-05-2009, 12:07 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Mystery Solved
OK, I contacted Jeff Gamroth of Rothsport who built the transmission 5 years ago. Below is his reply to me:
"Joseph, the blue aluminum fitting with the steel cap was added to the transmission for the possible later installation of a transmission cooler. This port would be the inlet for the pump. There is probably a return fitting on the drivers side up by the clutch master cylinder. You adjusted nothing.
That put my mind at rest.
JF
"Joseph, the blue aluminum fitting with the steel cap was added to the transmission for the possible later installation of a transmission cooler. This port would be the inlet for the pump. There is probably a return fitting on the drivers side up by the clutch master cylinder. You adjusted nothing.
That put my mind at rest.
JF
05-05-2014, 02:38 PM
#21
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As far as I remember, you do not have to drain the tranny. # 28 is actualy a roller bearing, but you get the idea. I went to my local tool store and bought a "SEAL REMOVAL TOOL" highly recommended, it is a handle with 2 hooks on one end, makes removing the old seal a 5 sec. job. To install the new seal, put a bit of grease on the spring inside the seal, that will prevent it from jumping off when you tap it in place. I installed the seal on the output flange and used that to get it started into the pocket, just tapping with a soft hammer, then remove the flange and tap the seal in the rest of the way. Have fun 
