Tinwan

I always used Mobil1 full syn for many years it always leaked to much then using Brad Penn 20/50 for nearly 1 year stopped most of the oil leaks. Did notice with Mobil1 the car would rev better with more power, is there any oil brand/grade that would provide the best of both worlds ? I prefer a full syn like Motul for example although don't like oil leaking on the driveway so any suggestions ?

Tinwan

With zero response to my original question it looks like I'm on the right track

springer3

This one has been beaten to death here and at every other motor enthusiast's board. My take? Even the better mineral oils are very good compared to what was available when 964s were new. If you find a reputable oil that does not leak, stick with it. I use M1 10W-30 EP same as the PO. So far zero leaks on the original engine. I have changed the problem-prone oil sender and PS pump seals on the "while you are in there" basis. Both sets of seals crumbled when I pried them out of the grooves. I suspect the other seals in the car are in similar condition, and I will not be leak-free for much longer. I honestly cannot understand how a leaker stops just because oil brand was changed. Perhaps the new oil swelled some brittle seals. I would not count on that lasting for long.

LouZ

I originally posted a thread that the switch to BP from M1 stopped the vast majority of leaks and sprays (from chain housing) and advised Tinwan to try it.

I'm a firm believer that ZDDP is an absolute requirement in our vintage cars.

I now use a good dino (20W-50) with the addition of commercially available ZDDP additive.

As for the longevity of "no leak" nirvana, I'm well past a year of spirited driving, including over 1,000 miles of flat out DE'ing, and I may have an occasional drop land on the garage floor.

Tinwan

Thank you Springer3 and Louz, I agree this issue is done to death and I do try to scan existing posts before I ask any questions normally. I remember Louz taking your advise and changed from Mobil1 last year. My problems with oil leaks really started when the official Porsche dealer in Hong Kong used the latest Porsche recommended Mobil1 grade specified (I think it was 5W40/50) in my car. The car was then imported directly after the last service from HK to Sydney in late 2005. I started using it more often on longer runs and it leaks were quite unacceptable. It had a short engine rebuild in 2000 so most seals that were suspect were replaced (except the crank case bolt o-rings) which I'm told might be the current problem. My car has never been driven very often so I guess that's part of the oil leak problem. Anyway thanks again for your advise and at least now its quite ok the way it is.
Cheers, Mark

amr89c4

The PO had been running Castrol GTX 20-50. I switched to Brad Penn and since the freight to get BP to me here in Tex is over half the cost of the oil, did some investigating for ZDDP based alternatives. I found additives but by the time you added the cost s required for an 11 qt oil change quickly realized that wasn't the way I wanted to go. Plus, I didn't want to mess with another source and another bottle at oil change time.

I decided after much research to give Valvoline VR1 Racing oil a try. The BP did not do much for me in regards to controlling the leaks I have so its not an issue as I am giving nothing up. VR1 contains as much or more ZDDP based on the numbers I found provided bt Valvoline. Its about $4 a qt and there is no freight since AutoZone stocks it.

http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/76
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/VR-1_Racing_Motor_Oil.pdf

I DE the car and change the oil every third DE. I presently drive to the track 130 miles away. So it will have about 1400 miles on it at sample time. I will have the oil analysis done by Blackstone Labs to see how the oil looks at that time. Depending on work I my be looking at an analysis in mid September. Stay tuned.

newsboy

GM E.O.S assembly lubricant is available again with ZDDP. What ever oil you choose, it can't hurt to ad a pint at each oil change.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

The current EOS doesn't contain anywhere near the ZDDP level that the original stuff did,........

Unless one is breaking in a brand-new or rebuilt engine, I always advise our clientel to use a good oil to begin with, and refrain from fortifying an off-the-shelf product with additives.

This is a VERY complex subject but its important to understand that ZDDP levels must be balanced with the detergent (Ca, Mg, Na) package to prevent ring problems, piston deposits, and sludge issues. Its not something for the home chemist to dabble in.

JMHO, of course.

Dwane

Again Steve....YOU DA MAN!!!
Dwane

springer3

Well done Steve. You waste $millions of very capable R&D by changing the mix on your brand-name oil. Every car owner's manual I have read says not to use oil additives. At best you are wasting money.

Henry964

What about additives that are already in the original oil formula?
I am using a german Liqui Moly brand oil 10W-40 MoS2 with no additional additives but it does have high levels of MoS2 in the formula.

Charles Navarro

The different observed in revving or oil temperatures has to do with how Brad Penn is formulated - it has no friction modifiers (i.e. no moly). That is the single component that most affects how "smooth" and engine feels, if and when a discernible difference is made by a lubricant change. On the other hand, you have oils like Swepco and Royal Purple that are friction modified and tend to reduce oil temperatures and improve fuel economy.