rockpicker

93 RSA. shifted from 2-3 then no more drive. no noise, axles ok. Shift rods move with stick as seen thru inspection cover. Thought ring rear, but with engine running can row thru gears fine and no gear noise. Appears as selector has disconnected from transmission? Not familiar with the interface and its too low to see anything here. Flatbed on the way, but could use any troubleshooting advice.

Matt
207-745-1789

crg53

When you get it up on the stands, take the transmission over off, and check the "Shift Coupler" that is what connects the shift rod to the transmission; it could be broken. I replaced mine not too long ago, it had a crack in it, and would have broken apart eventualy, the replacement shift coupler has been reinforced in that area. There are several options for the repair, search "shift linkage bushing" or " rs shift rod" and you will find lots of information. good luck. The cost of the stock shift coupler is around $150.00

rockpicker

Steen
That was my thought as well, but isn't it odd that I can feel the shifter go into all 6 positions rather than flop around if a coupler failed? It acts like the clutch has failed in a disengaged position (which I didn't know could even happen). I am going to pull the inspection cover and see whats in there.

Any other ideas? Is it possible the clutch is stuck open?

Rocket Rob

Is it possible for the clutch to fail open? I doubt it. How does the clutch pedal feel? Is there the normal resistance?

I agree, it sounds like a shift linkage problem. Can you engage reverse?

rockpicker

That's what's weird; everything feels and sounds normal. If its put in any gear and the clutch pedal is released nothing happens. There is no thrashing or metal sounds in the trans/bellhousing area either. IF I can push the damn thing in my garage I'm about to get it up in the air and see if anything easy if wrong

rockpicker

So far I think I've at least found the source of oil/exhaust smell in the cabin when the heat is on (no hose clamps on the right side heat tube from the exchanger), but nothing is jumping out at me from first glance. I did find it odd that the car has never left oil on the ground, but when I pushed it from the spot the carrier left it there was 4 decent sized deposits on the drive.

To recap, with the stick in any position, the car moves as though its in neutral. Both axles still spin together when jacked up (LSD). Why the exposed area on the drive side on the bellhousing (when looking up from the ground?) I can see what I assume to be the flywheel?

CLutch pedal feels good. IS there any way to diagnose engage/disengage that I am missing? I don't have a factory manual, but I am guessing the slave cylinder and fork are on top of the trans? Short of a broken shaft or pinion I am at a loss as to what it could be.

Matt
207-745-1789

rockpicker

All apart. I broke the splined center section of the clutch off the friction surface. Not real surprising for a track car with 49k (this replacement will be the third clutch).

My stack of receipts from the seller states that a previous owner paid to install an RS clutch and lightweight flywheel. It feels like a lightweight when driving, but it sure was heavy when removing. The broken part numbers are as follows

Flywheel: LUK 458 04
Pressure plate: Sachs 3032 125 199
Clutch disk: 964 116 013

Sound right? If it is in fact the correct lightweight flywheel I need to find the tolerances to see if it can be milled or not. If its the stock unit I plan to replace. Can anyone comment on the clutch assembly. There is some play in the shift coupler bushing as well as the clutch release fork. Any upgrade suggestions or is a bushing replacement typical? BTW, if doing this yourself for the first time.......just drop the entire motor/trans combo instead of splitting them. Also, if pics would help for those comtemplating doing this themselves for the first time please let me know and I can post some.

Thank you for the help and input.

Matt

crg53

Pictures are always appreciated; one of these days I will have to do this myself, so the more knowledge the better. thanks

Rocket Rob

I replaced my all of the clutch components including clutch release fork, shaft, bushings, throwout bearing and guide tube on both cars, just to ensure that everything was fresh when I reassembled. Both cars, had the original roller bearing bushings which I replaced with solid bushings. The roller bushings were shot and had lost some of the rollers. I figured it would be better to have solid bushings (simpler, less likely to fail).


http://www.ebsracing.com/item.wws?sk...et&weight=0.61

I purchased mine from EBS Racing (no affiliations).

By the way, glad you found the problem. I've never heard of a clutch disk failing like that.