valve cover question
#1
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Getting ready replace the valve covers and gaskets to fix the oil leak. find lost of contradicting info related to what value to torque the nuts to and what pattern to tighten them in. so just wondering what you guys are using.. 6 or 7 ft lbs seems to the most common torque. thanks
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Last edited by jim_l; 02-26-2009 at 08:44 PM. Reason: should be ft lbs
#2
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7ft-lbs is what the workshop manual has as torque spec. Be sure to use a small torque wrench that can get those low values... don't be using the 1/2" wrench for that, lol...
I always start at the center top then bottom and then out... little by little with just the socket... then I use the torque wrench for the final pass.
I always start at the center top then bottom and then out... little by little with just the socket... then I use the torque wrench for the final pass.
#3
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Unlike the typical water-cooled engine's head gasket, where that gasket's compression/effectiveness is dependent on the head bolt's preload (torque)... our 3.6L valve covers have gaskets that only undergo a certain 'squish' before the aluminum valve cover and head come into direct contact.
So, of Jaime's 7 in-lbs torque, only a tiny bit actually goes into squeezing the rubber gasket. Past that (say, the final 6 in-lbs) just goes into putting an additional non-sealing preload squeeze between valve cover and head. (ie, the valve cover gasket doesn't 'see' that final 6 in-lbs of torque 'squeeze'.)
If the gasket's good, and the surfaces it touches are non-scarred and somewhat true, the seal should be good. (after all, it's only got to contain non-pressurized engine oil 'drool' on it's way back to the engine sump.)
The other thing torque normally accomplishes, as a anti-rotation device, is instead accomplished, here, by anti-rotation nuts.
So, [flame suit On] given everything else, this torque's effect on sealing effectiveness ain't All that critical.
But 7 in-lbs, acheived by 2, or 3, torque application 'stars', will do everything you need done.
So, of Jaime's 7 in-lbs torque, only a tiny bit actually goes into squeezing the rubber gasket. Past that (say, the final 6 in-lbs) just goes into putting an additional non-sealing preload squeeze between valve cover and head. (ie, the valve cover gasket doesn't 'see' that final 6 in-lbs of torque 'squeeze'.)
If the gasket's good, and the surfaces it touches are non-scarred and somewhat true, the seal should be good. (after all, it's only got to contain non-pressurized engine oil 'drool' on it's way back to the engine sump.)
The other thing torque normally accomplishes, as a anti-rotation device, is instead accomplished, here, by anti-rotation nuts.
So, [flame suit On] given everything else, this torque's effect on sealing effectiveness ain't All that critical.
But 7 in-lbs, acheived by 2, or 3, torque application 'stars', will do everything you need done.
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#5
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Put the covers on with no gaskets, and you will be able to check the gap to see how much warping there is. Mine are still nice and flat, and no problems with leaks on the original covers. I do see a little pitting in the seal groove, and that is worrying me just a little.