Racecar Project - More Factory Suspension Parts
#1
Nordschleife Master
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The factory race car parts manuals are like PET and include part numbers for all of the parts used in the car including the specific optional parts. Beginning with the 964RSR there are some front suspension adjustment shims available. There are a total of 4 different shims available providing for 8 different camber adjustments by flipping them over. These shims are placed on the front and back of the top strut to upright bolt and do several things. First they prevent the upright from moving in the strut and losing camber alignment. Second they allow exacting camber changes to be made without realigning it. These shims happen to be a copy of the factory ones and are marked with a number punch rather than the notches in the edge that the factory ones have. As you can see from the pictures, they are marked 1-4 and 5-8.
Through this project I have gained a much better appreciation of what it means to have a factory based race car. I have enjoyed searching for all of the factory parts and improving upon them where I can. I think in some ways my car is better than a factory car (as it should be with 15yr newer technology), but in other areas where I've been struggling (brakes for instace), having the correct factory race parts would make it better. I think I'm most of the way there.
![](http://www.racetek-engineering.com/images/Shim1.jpg)
Through this project I have gained a much better appreciation of what it means to have a factory based race car. I have enjoyed searching for all of the factory parts and improving upon them where I can. I think in some ways my car is better than a factory car (as it should be with 15yr newer technology), but in other areas where I've been struggling (brakes for instace), having the correct factory race parts would make it better. I think I'm most of the way there.
![](http://www.racetek-engineering.com/images/Shim1.jpg)
![](http://www.racetek-engineering.com/images/Shim2.jpg)
#3
Nordschleife Master
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I would use them in conjunction with the upper camber plate adjustment. You'll need the upper to fine tune the alignment and compensate for any chassis differece side-to-side. Once the alignment is set and you are at the track, you can adjust the camber by replacing the plates with the next size with the expectation that the plates will provide for an exacting (or almost exacting) camber change with consistency side-to-side.
#5
Three Wheelin'
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Goeffrey,
I take it you have an RSR parts sheet. I ran across someone else on here that had it but wasn't interested in parting with it or making a copy.
Have you ever seen any for sale? I'd love to see all the motorsport parts for these cars.
Cheers.
RT
I take it you have an RSR parts sheet. I ran across someone else on here that had it but wasn't interested in parting with it or making a copy.
Have you ever seen any for sale? I'd love to see all the motorsport parts for these cars.
Cheers.
RT
#6
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Those are to use with the adjustable upper shock mount. The plates fix the basic adjustment bias then the fine adjustment is done by moving the top of the strut in the slotted mount, right?
Those plates prevent any motion at the normal adjustment point.
Those plates prevent any motion at the normal adjustment point.
#7
Nordschleife Master
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I take it you have an RSR parts sheet.
Those are to use with the adjustable upper shock mount. The plates fix the basic adjustment bias then the fine adjustment is done by moving the top of the strut in the slotted mount, right?
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#8
Nordschleife Master
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Here is the installalation. The first picture shows the slotted strut with the bolt removed and you can see how the camber adjustment on a stock car works. The second picture is of the shim installed to lock the camber into one position. You can see how it rests on the braces of the strut and won't move when pounding over curbs on the track. I installed the 1/6 shim just as a reference. On one side you use '1' and the other you use '6'.
Since my car was already aligned recently, I removed the top bolt and left the bottom bolt tight which prevents the upright from moving in the strut. I then found the shim that most closely matched with my current position, then loosened the bottom bolt which allowed the shim to be installed with the top bolt. I will realign the car and make any adjustment from the top.
![](http://www.racetek-engineering.com/images/Cambershim1.jpg)
Since my car was already aligned recently, I removed the top bolt and left the bottom bolt tight which prevents the upright from moving in the strut. I then found the shim that most closely matched with my current position, then loosened the bottom bolt which allowed the shim to be installed with the top bolt. I will realign the car and make any adjustment from the top.
![](http://www.racetek-engineering.com/images/Cambershim1.jpg)
![](http://www.racetek-engineering.com/images/Cambershim2.jpg)
#10
Rennlist Member
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Here is the installalation. The first picture shows the slotted strut with the bolt removed and you can see how the camber adjustment on a stock car works. The second picture is of the shim installed to lock the camber into one position. You can see how it rests on the braces of the strut and won't move when pounding over curbs on the track. I installed the 1/6 shim just as a reference. On one side you use '1' and the other you use '6'.
Since my car was already aligned recently, I removed the top bolt and left the bottom bolt tight which prevents the upright from moving in the strut. I then found the shim that most closely matched with my current position, then loosened the bottom bolt which allowed the shim to be installed with the top bolt. I will realign the car and make any adjustment from the top.
Since my car was already aligned recently, I removed the top bolt and left the bottom bolt tight which prevents the upright from moving in the strut. I then found the shim that most closely matched with my current position, then loosened the bottom bolt which allowed the shim to be installed with the top bolt. I will realign the car and make any adjustment from the top.
With these plates the adjustment cannot move anyway, thus the torque requirement could be reduced, thereby not stretching the bolt to the extent it requires replacement, right?
#11
Nordschleife Master
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I reuse the bolts and torque them to motorsport torque value. I replace the bolts when I refreshen the suspension components. I have some new ones to put in.
#13
Nordschleife Master
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I use the 993GT2 motorsports manual for the torque since I have GT2 Uprights. I don't know if they are different from 993 street since I haven't looked them up.
#14
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I don't know the torque for the 993, but the 993 (including the RS) uses a M14 X 1.5 bolt at the bottom of the strut and a M12 X 1.5 bolt at the top of the strut.
Since the 993 uses coarse thead bolts, I wonder if the torque setting is less than for the 964 and the bolts don't get replaced.
Edit: I changed the numbers of bolts to reflect those used for one strut, not for both struts.