Notices
964 Forum 1989-1994
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Pulling stubborn brake pads?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-08-2008, 02:50 PM
  #16  
Polman
Pro
 
Polman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Veberod / Sweden
Posts: 519
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

….Since we are talking brake callipers….How to loosen those suckers in the picture, who are the reason for many bad words I have tried to heat the small screws, a lot off 5:56.….very tricky to get off…..very grateful for hints

Last edited by Polman; 10-26-2014 at 10:13 AM.
Old 12-11-2008, 05:59 PM
  #17  
-nick
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
-nick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Cambridge/Boston, MA
Posts: 1,781
Received 104 Likes on 80 Posts
Default

Follow-up -

It turns out that you can't get a screwdriver to pry out the inside brake pads with ilko's method. The mounting points are in the way. Should work well for the outer pads though.

I ended up pulling the calipers off and then tapping the inner pads out. I don't know why I didn't do it that way all along - dead simple!

I didn't have to grind much off the top & bottom of the new pads to get them to slip in and have some freedom of movement.

All in all, a success! I even replaced the pads with all the shims, anti-squeal, and sensor hardware in tact.
Old 12-11-2008, 06:05 PM
  #18  
ilko
Agent Orange
Rennlist Member
 
ilko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 16,173
Received 511 Likes on 188 Posts
Default

Once you take the outside pads off, the pressure in the system drops and you can push the pistons on the other end back pretty easily. No need to take the calipers off. But hey, as long as you got it done
Old 12-11-2008, 07:31 PM
  #19  
boxsey911
Nordschleife Master
 
boxsey911's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Cheshire, UK
Posts: 5,095
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Polman, unless you can put extreme heat on the screws until they are cherry red, they will not budge. The alternative I used was to dremmel a slot in the head and then use a 10 mm cold chisel to break the bond. The first one might take you an age to get all the way out but once you get the hang of it both plates can be removed pretty quickly. Here's the mess the cold chisel makes of those screws, so you'll need new ones

Old 12-12-2008, 02:22 PM
  #20  
demonfish
Burning Brakes
 
demonfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Birmingham, UK.
Posts: 963
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

i'll be doing this job in the next month or so... got new pads and RS discs to fit up back, swap out the brake regulator and re bleed the whole lot...

i'm not bothing with those shim things, they get in the way at track days.

Not looking forward to removing the spring plates
Old 12-13-2008, 01:42 AM
  #21  
Marc Shaw
Super Duper Moderator
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
Marc Shaw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: YQU
Posts: 7,774
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by -nick
Does anyone have a trick for pulling out the rear brake pads?
I use the Hazet slide hammer that has pins that fit into the pins in the top of the pads.

Marc
Attached Images   
Old 12-13-2008, 03:56 PM
  #22  
GMS
Pro
 
GMS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Seattle WA USA
Posts: 542
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

The slide hammer will only work if the brakes have either no vibration dampers or are slit off the pads first.
Old 12-13-2008, 04:16 PM
  #23  
Sten
Pro
 
Sten's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 543
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

To remove the screws that hold the spring plates, use a MIG to weld a nut onto the screw - the heat from the weld melts the threadlock on the screw, and the nut gives you some purchase to undo the damn things!



Quick Reply: Pulling stubborn brake pads?



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 10:36 PM.