How to learn heel and toe?
#16
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You might also look into some aftermarket pedals, especially the accelerator. I have an aluminum pad on top of mine, which provides more surface area, and it wraps a bit closer around the brake pedal, so you can roll foot to the right to blip the throttle. (Though I am still learning too.. I would say my skill level is novice for sure)
Also +1 on the pedal height adjustment - though be careful to take into account that the brake pedal is farther down under heavy braking...
Also +1 on the pedal height adjustment - though be careful to take into account that the brake pedal is farther down under heavy braking...
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#17
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There's a bunch of confusing info out about heel & toe techniques, most common of them confuse H&T with double clutching (two separate things) or why you need to do it at all. The whole point of the technique is not to make it easier to get the car into the lower gear (although it helps) but on the track it is all about getting the car in the ideal rpm range in the right gear for the exit out of the corner, without upsetting the balance of the car. It's all about downshifting while applying the brake. So when you're practicing what you need to be focusing on is smooth transitions between gears while applying consistent pressure on the brake pedal. All too often when learning the technique people are focusing on blipping the throttle and working the clutch while forgetting to modulate the brake pressure. You have to do both to be smooth. As you get used to it you'll find you're doing more than just poking at the accelerator, but you will need to modulate both the brake and the gas at the same time (trailbraking) or sliding your left foot over to help (left foot braking) all techniques that are meant to minimize upset of the car at the edge of adhesion.
You can practice on the street by downshifting/heel&toe while applying the brake, either going through a corner or coming to a stoplight. Its far less dramatic than on the track, but it does build the muscle reflex you need. When done correctly it is a thing of beauty, and makes driving a manual box so much more rewarding.
It does tend to be more rolling the ball of your foot on and off the brake pedal and using the right edge of your foot or the upper edge of your heel on the accelerator, depends on the setup of your car. I actually find a wider shoe easier than racing boots, but thats a personal preference. I'd work it for a while before you mess too much with the pedals, but I have no idea what a peguot would be like...
Have fun...
You can practice on the street by downshifting/heel&toe while applying the brake, either going through a corner or coming to a stoplight. Its far less dramatic than on the track, but it does build the muscle reflex you need. When done correctly it is a thing of beauty, and makes driving a manual box so much more rewarding.
It does tend to be more rolling the ball of your foot on and off the brake pedal and using the right edge of your foot or the upper edge of your heel on the accelerator, depends on the setup of your car. I actually find a wider shoe easier than racing boots, but thats a personal preference. I'd work it for a while before you mess too much with the pedals, but I have no idea what a peguot would be like...
Have fun...
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#18
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but on the track it is all about getting the car in the ideal rpm range in the right gear for the exit out of the corner
I would say it' s more about avoiding the stall of the rear axel.... You ger the right revs with the right gear, not doing the H&T.
#19
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I agree that you may want to get an aftermarket pedal.(got mine from Better Bodies, no affiliation). It has a lip on the left side that makes it easier to roll your right foot from the brake pedal. It also raises the height of the accelerator pedal, so it is closer to the same plane as the brake pedal.
You should also get some driving shoes. They usually have a narrower sole, which makes maneuvering easier.
You should also get some driving shoes. They usually have a narrower sole, which makes maneuvering easier.
#20
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The first goal is to keep a constant balance of the car under braking. If you don't H&T, you can "chirp" the rear wheels under heavy braking while downshifting. And it is about corner entry, not exit. The point made about constant brake pressure is very important too.
#21
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+1 on corner entry. If you are trail-braking, then let out the clutch without properly matching the RPMs, that chirping sound you hear might just precede the rear end coming out at an inopportune time.
Also, practice makes perfect. I think this video has been shared here before, but watch Walter Rohrl dance on these pedals! Heel-toe, left foot braking, you name it. Also see how his accelerator pedal is perfectly placed in respect to the brake pedal to allow effortless H-T.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yyVHj3sHVHQ
Also, practice makes perfect. I think this video has been shared here before, but watch Walter Rohrl dance on these pedals! Heel-toe, left foot braking, you name it. Also see how his accelerator pedal is perfectly placed in respect to the brake pedal to allow effortless H-T.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yyVHj3sHVHQ
#23
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Great info all - But one little bit of additional advice - While working / practicing H&T (I prefer right side foot and left side foot ) MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT THE RIGHT HAND IS DOING ( USA) LEFT HAND (GB) There is nothing worse than getting the method down right only to find that you are in the wrong gear -
Side Note: adjusting the height of the gas pedal to brake pedal height or just a little below brake pedal height (at pad contact point) helps with left and right side of foot contact. Also adjust or restrict clutch pedal travel so that the pedal does not have to be depressed any further than necessary to disengage the clutch - the extra pedal travel is only wasted time. Look at the panel directly behind the clutch there is an adjustable stop than can be lowered to do this - in some cases it may have to be modified. I think there are three screws that allow the clutch stop bracket to be adjusted.
Side Note: adjusting the height of the gas pedal to brake pedal height or just a little below brake pedal height (at pad contact point) helps with left and right side of foot contact. Also adjust or restrict clutch pedal travel so that the pedal does not have to be depressed any further than necessary to disengage the clutch - the extra pedal travel is only wasted time. Look at the panel directly behind the clutch there is an adjustable stop than can be lowered to do this - in some cases it may have to be modified. I think there are three screws that allow the clutch stop bracket to be adjusted.
#24
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Hi Henry, If you find that a pedal adjustment is required, we have several options available for your car. Our Fully Adjustable unit (Click Here) will allow you to adjust your pedal in every direction that you desire. We also have pedal covers with removable throttle extensions and lifter plates (Click Here). Both systems basically do the same job, the main difference is the Fully adjustable unit is a complete replacement of the factory unit and has a bit more adjustment. A lot of guys on Rennlist have experience with both set ups and they should be able to steer you in the right direction. Feel free to call us directly at 802-655-5311 Ext 105 for more specific information and keep in mind that this month we are offering free shipping to all Rennlist members.
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Henry, regarding Rennline pedals, I find that with 993s and 964s when I add the accelerator pedal on top of the stock pedal, and then add the brake pedal with the stock rubber pedal cover removed, the overall change is perfect for my big feet. Their pedals raise the accelerator and lower the brake pedal enough that no pedal cluster adjustment is needed for me.
#26
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Thanks everyone again!!!!
Today I drove the 964 and I am certain that I will have to add something to the pedals because there is a big difference in height (it´s much easier in the Peugeot but in that car I don´t need to do it)
Today I drove the 964 and I am certain that I will have to add something to the pedals because there is a big difference in height (it´s much easier in the Peugeot but in that car I don´t need to do it)
#27
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I've never understood why this car (don't know about other 911's) didn't have the pedals better situated for heel-n-toe work. Replacing the gas pedal was the first thing I did to my car. Now heel-n-toe is second nature.