crashed
11-07-2008, 06:27 PM
#46
Racer
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Grand Rapids
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Take lots of photos while it is apart. Good documentation for when you have to sell. Overall your damage is not all that bad, but most of your front end will have been repainted and all will know it. Amazon green is metaillic and any fade lines will show up in the sun. This will not help on resale, but good documentation of what happened will.
Looks like your getting one new rim out the deal. Perhaps you should ask for a new set of colored caps?
If the hood is bent, try to get a new hood crest and hood shocks out the deal.
Since the car has been siting maybe that front carpet is getting wet and damaged and needs replaced. hummm?
I would try to get a new headlight cover, fog light cover and turn signal cover for the driver side too. Other wise you'll have one side pitted and the other side crystal new. Same thing if they replace the passenger fender well liner. This might be pushing things, but this is a Porsche, not a chevy malibu.
Get a copy of that estimate and schematic diagram of the front end. Make sure they are actually replacing everything they say they are and look for things that they may have missed.
I would try to squeeze an algnment out the deal for sure and possibly repainting your front brake calipers.
This is a prime oppertunity for the brake duct/fog light mod. Personally, if you want the car gone, get them to make it look as new as possible. Then sell it.
Looks like your getting one new rim out the deal. Perhaps you should ask for a new set of colored caps?
If the hood is bent, try to get a new hood crest and hood shocks out the deal.
Since the car has been siting maybe that front carpet is getting wet and damaged and needs replaced. hummm?
I would try to get a new headlight cover, fog light cover and turn signal cover for the driver side too. Other wise you'll have one side pitted and the other side crystal new. Same thing if they replace the passenger fender well liner. This might be pushing things, but this is a Porsche, not a chevy malibu.
Get a copy of that estimate and schematic diagram of the front end. Make sure they are actually replacing everything they say they are and look for things that they may have missed.
I would try to squeeze an algnment out the deal for sure and possibly repainting your front brake calipers.
This is a prime oppertunity for the brake duct/fog light mod. Personally, if you want the car gone, get them to make it look as new as possible. Then sell it.
11-07-2008, 06:53 PM
#47
Instructor
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nashville, TN
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Also check your oil cooler, since it sits up there along with your feed and return lines...trust me on this one, also, they will have to check the rebar and the shocks for the bumper. Take good pictures. I've got a ton from mine. PM me and I'll shoot you over some .
Scott
'92 Guards Red C2
Scott
'92 Guards Red C2
11-12-2008, 02:34 PM
#48
Instructor
Thread Starter
Update!!
I just got back from the shop and snapped a few pictures, which I'll try to post later this evening.
Apparently all the parts were received at the shop today, so assuming they are the correct ones, the shop owner said the car should be done by the end of this coming week. I've dealt with body shops before and know that "should be done" can sometimes mean "theoretically possible, but not likely".
In any event, its nice to see that work is getting done. The owner assured me that they would take care blending the paint across the entire front and down the passenger side. The hood does have a small high-point, so they'll be refinishing the hood (getting rid of all of the expected stone chips), and will be replacing the porsche crest as well.
Again, I'll post some pics later tonight and I look forward to any input.
I just got back from the shop and snapped a few pictures, which I'll try to post later this evening.
Apparently all the parts were received at the shop today, so assuming they are the correct ones, the shop owner said the car should be done by the end of this coming week. I've dealt with body shops before and know that "should be done" can sometimes mean "theoretically possible, but not likely".
In any event, its nice to see that work is getting done. The owner assured me that they would take care blending the paint across the entire front and down the passenger side. The hood does have a small high-point, so they'll be refinishing the hood (getting rid of all of the expected stone chips), and will be replacing the porsche crest as well.
Again, I'll post some pics later tonight and I look forward to any input.
11-12-2008, 11:25 PM
#50
Instructor
Thread Starter
Note: I only included the first pic of the car from the rear angle, because I find it hilarious that the wing is still up (I typically use the manual switch to keep it up while I'm driving because i think it improves the overall look)
11-13-2008, 09:50 PM
#52
Nordschleife Master
Ewww -- am I seeing that right? -- not so jazzed about them hanging your radiator like a wind chime by its poor hoses.
(Hoses ain't meant to be load-bearing, shop guys. Hang that radiator by a spare clothes hanger, if you have to.)
Re your tail: "Put me back in, coach! -- I still got game!"
("Settle down, Sixtyfour -- let the doc take care of ya...")
(Hoses ain't meant to be load-bearing, shop guys. Hang that radiator by a spare clothes hanger, if you have to.)
Re your tail: "Put me back in, coach! -- I still got game!"
("Settle down, Sixtyfour -- let the doc take care of ya...")
11-15-2008, 04:16 PM
#53
Advanced
Have you ever hit something in the right front before? The lower right front pan area looks to have some previous damage. I can see some sheet metal wrinkles and it is pushed in and lower at the bottom. The factory undercoating in this area is not black either. Another sign of previous crash damage is spray can undercoating. I suppose it could be dirty and the lighting, but I am guessing hit #2 for the right front.
If you don't know for sure, ask the shop guys their opinion. It doesn't look like they have worked in that area.
It's coming along nicely.
If you don't know for sure, ask the shop guys their opinion. It doesn't look like they have worked in that area.
It's coming along nicely.
11-16-2008, 01:47 AM
#54
Instructor
Thread Starter
I certainly haven't crashed the car before. The shop did say they thought there was some new paint on the rear right passenger side, but didn't mention anything about the front. I'll definitely ask them about it, and I see what you mean in the picture, but i looked over the car pretty closely in person and didn't notice it, so it could be dirt / lighting.
Last I heard the car could be ready by the end of the coming week. Fingers are crossed, presuming they can still do a good job to get it done that soon.
Last I heard the car could be ready by the end of the coming week. Fingers are crossed, presuming they can still do a good job to get it done that soon.
11-16-2008, 01:22 PM
#55
Advanced
I owned a bodyshop specializing in Porsche and German repairs for almost 20 years. Here are a few things to look for:
Don't let them use spray can undercoating! The factory used a cream colored "Wurth" brand undercoating when they put the car together. It is a water based product that dries into the thick rubberized stuff that does such a great job. It is also referred to as body "Schutz". (pronounced shoots) It is applied directly out the plastic can using a simple siphon gun that screws onto the can of product. Your shop should duplicate the factory look and spray the living crap out of the underside of the new fender, any hammer marks from repairs to the tub, and especially the seam where the new fender joins to the front and rear aprons. The fender shouldn't even budge with all the bolts out. Seriously. It takes hours to get a factory installed 911 fender off without any damage. The fender should also have caulking inside the seam where it joins to the body. (think glue) INSIST they use this Wurth product to complete repairs, even if they have to buy the applicator gun. (it's cheap) They should caulk any gaps before using the Schutz, and they should apply it before painting, not afterwards. Being water based, it only takes a few hours to dry. I think the very bottom of the outside fender gets some too as well as the the wheel opening lips IIRC. This is for stone chip protection. (My car not here for reference) Carefully compare your old fenders to the work they do to the new fender. (before painting)
Make sure they do a decent job spot painting the hammer repair marks inside your underhood area. This area may need some Schutz also. You should confirm this yourself.
One other word of advice however, it can be impossible to get the Wurth undercoating in the winter months. They won't ship it then as it is water based and it will freeze during transport and become useless. Be prepared to source some from another shop that has stocked up for the winter.
If you do determine you have the cheaper spray can undercoating from a previous repair, ask your shop guys to clean it off with lacquer thinner, etc. and reapply the good stuff. Small hammer marks can be spot repaired using a paint brush as the Wurth is quite goopy.
I heard a rumor on Ferrari Chat that Wurth had discontinued the cream color in favor of other colors for quite a while, but the cream was now back in production. If you can't get the cream, They may have grey.
Old stock goes bad on the shelf after a couple years, so if someone has it, find out how old it is. A bad can kind of shrinks in on itself.
Don't let them use spray can undercoating! The factory used a cream colored "Wurth" brand undercoating when they put the car together. It is a water based product that dries into the thick rubberized stuff that does such a great job. It is also referred to as body "Schutz". (pronounced shoots) It is applied directly out the plastic can using a simple siphon gun that screws onto the can of product. Your shop should duplicate the factory look and spray the living crap out of the underside of the new fender, any hammer marks from repairs to the tub, and especially the seam where the new fender joins to the front and rear aprons. The fender shouldn't even budge with all the bolts out. Seriously. It takes hours to get a factory installed 911 fender off without any damage. The fender should also have caulking inside the seam where it joins to the body. (think glue) INSIST they use this Wurth product to complete repairs, even if they have to buy the applicator gun. (it's cheap) They should caulk any gaps before using the Schutz, and they should apply it before painting, not afterwards. Being water based, it only takes a few hours to dry. I think the very bottom of the outside fender gets some too as well as the the wheel opening lips IIRC. This is for stone chip protection. (My car not here for reference) Carefully compare your old fenders to the work they do to the new fender. (before painting)
Make sure they do a decent job spot painting the hammer repair marks inside your underhood area. This area may need some Schutz also. You should confirm this yourself.
One other word of advice however, it can be impossible to get the Wurth undercoating in the winter months. They won't ship it then as it is water based and it will freeze during transport and become useless. Be prepared to source some from another shop that has stocked up for the winter.
If you do determine you have the cheaper spray can undercoating from a previous repair, ask your shop guys to clean it off with lacquer thinner, etc. and reapply the good stuff. Small hammer marks can be spot repaired using a paint brush as the Wurth is quite goopy.
I heard a rumor on Ferrari Chat that Wurth had discontinued the cream color in favor of other colors for quite a while, but the cream was now back in production. If you can't get the cream, They may have grey.
Old stock goes bad on the shelf after a couple years, so if someone has it, find out how old it is. A bad can kind of shrinks in on itself.
11-16-2008, 06:31 PM
#56
Three Wheelin'
I owned a bodyshop specializing in Porsche and German repairs for almost 20 years. Here are a few things to look for:
Don't let them use spray can undercoating! The factory used a cream colored "Wurth" brand undercoating when they put the car together. It is a water based product that dries into the thick rubberized stuff that does such a great job. It is also referred to as body "Schutz". (pronounced shoots) It is applied directly out the plastic can using a simple siphon gun that screws onto the can of product. Your shop should duplicate the factory look and spray the living crap out of the underside of the new fender, any hammer marks from repairs to the tub, and especially the seam where the new fender joins to the front and rear aprons. The fender shouldn't even budge with all the bolts out. Seriously. It takes hours to get a factory installed 911 fender off without any damage. The fender should also have caulking inside the seam where it joins to the body. (think glue) INSIST they use this Wurth product to complete repairs, even if they have to buy the applicator gun. (it's cheap) They should caulk any gaps before using the Schutz, and they should apply it before painting, not afterwards. Being water based, it only takes a few hours to dry. I think the very bottom of the outside fender gets some too as well as the the wheel opening lips IIRC. This is for stone chip protection. (My car not here for reference) Carefully compare your old fenders to the work they do to the new fender. (before painting)
Make sure they do a decent job spot painting the hammer repair marks inside your underhood area. This area may need some Schutz also. You should confirm this yourself.
One other word of advice however, it can be impossible to get the Wurth undercoating in the winter months. They won't ship it then as it is water based and it will freeze during transport and become useless. Be prepared to source some from another shop that has stocked up for the winter.
If you do determine you have the cheaper spray can undercoating from a previous repair, ask your shop guys to clean it off with lacquer thinner, etc. and reapply the good stuff. Small hammer marks can be spot repaired using a paint brush as the Wurth is quite goopy.
I heard a rumor on Ferrari Chat that Wurth had discontinued the cream color in favor of other colors for quite a while, but the cream was now back in production. If you can't get the cream, They may have grey.
Old stock goes bad on the shelf after a couple years, so if someone has it, find out how old it is. A bad can kind of shrinks in on itself.
Don't let them use spray can undercoating! The factory used a cream colored "Wurth" brand undercoating when they put the car together. It is a water based product that dries into the thick rubberized stuff that does such a great job. It is also referred to as body "Schutz". (pronounced shoots) It is applied directly out the plastic can using a simple siphon gun that screws onto the can of product. Your shop should duplicate the factory look and spray the living crap out of the underside of the new fender, any hammer marks from repairs to the tub, and especially the seam where the new fender joins to the front and rear aprons. The fender shouldn't even budge with all the bolts out. Seriously. It takes hours to get a factory installed 911 fender off without any damage. The fender should also have caulking inside the seam where it joins to the body. (think glue) INSIST they use this Wurth product to complete repairs, even if they have to buy the applicator gun. (it's cheap) They should caulk any gaps before using the Schutz, and they should apply it before painting, not afterwards. Being water based, it only takes a few hours to dry. I think the very bottom of the outside fender gets some too as well as the the wheel opening lips IIRC. This is for stone chip protection. (My car not here for reference) Carefully compare your old fenders to the work they do to the new fender. (before painting)
Make sure they do a decent job spot painting the hammer repair marks inside your underhood area. This area may need some Schutz also. You should confirm this yourself.
One other word of advice however, it can be impossible to get the Wurth undercoating in the winter months. They won't ship it then as it is water based and it will freeze during transport and become useless. Be prepared to source some from another shop that has stocked up for the winter.
If you do determine you have the cheaper spray can undercoating from a previous repair, ask your shop guys to clean it off with lacquer thinner, etc. and reapply the good stuff. Small hammer marks can be spot repaired using a paint brush as the Wurth is quite goopy.
I heard a rumor on Ferrari Chat that Wurth had discontinued the cream color in favor of other colors for quite a while, but the cream was now back in production. If you can't get the cream, They may have grey.
Old stock goes bad on the shelf after a couple years, so if someone has it, find out how old it is. A bad can kind of shrinks in on itself.
12-08-2008, 10:57 AM
#60
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well, I apologize, but I wanted to wait to write a formal update until I had pics, and several things are working against me from posting any. Firstly, I got my car back late last week, and over the weekend, they sprayed salt all over the roads here, so my car right now is more of an Amazon Flat Gray, instead of green metallic. Secondly, they couldn't source my euro lenses, so I've got them on order and am using my old faded/scratched amber ones in the mean time.
However, the car looks really great. Desirable features now include a chip-less hood, ding-less passenger-side door, bend-less bumper (it doesn't smile at you anymore), and one new headlight..yes, just one. From what I can tell, they did a really good job fading the paint, and they refurbished the panel above my rear right tire, which was suffering from some stone chips and some cracking in the rubber window trim, free of charge... (to me, anyway).
We're supposed to get into the 50's by midweek, at which point I'll probably be doing a wash, mini-detail, and I will of course take pictures. In other news, it was determined that the party at fault's insurance policy expired 2 days before the accident. I'm glad I have some prior experience with claims, and made sure to have all of the uninsured motorist / waiver of deductible extras on my policy. When all is said and done, I should just be out the diminished value, but no actual $ out of pocket.
However, the car looks really great. Desirable features now include a chip-less hood, ding-less passenger-side door, bend-less bumper (it doesn't smile at you anymore), and one new headlight..yes, just one. From what I can tell, they did a really good job fading the paint, and they refurbished the panel above my rear right tire, which was suffering from some stone chips and some cracking in the rubber window trim, free of charge... (to me, anyway).
We're supposed to get into the 50's by midweek, at which point I'll probably be doing a wash, mini-detail, and I will of course take pictures. In other news, it was determined that the party at fault's insurance policy expired 2 days before the accident. I'm glad I have some prior experience with claims, and made sure to have all of the uninsured motorist / waiver of deductible extras on my policy. When all is said and done, I should just be out the diminished value, but no actual $ out of pocket.