I'm trying to find a good way to tape the sound... Which is just awesome. I had to put a second set of screws in my license plate holder as it was vibrating like crazy!

I just won the bid on a microphone for my laptop.... I'll have a few bites posted when I get it.

As far as the DME goes... A I understand it... The DME will eventually "relearn" any differences that may exist.... It's just that resetting the DME will make it learn the differences faster. (Someone please correct me if I am wrong.)

 

Can't wait to hear it... I know I should just do it.., but there are other things... like, Swaybars, seats, harness, etc that I want to do.... trying prioritize.

 

So how do you re set the DME??

 

Here's a link that's in the DIY section:

https://rennlist.com/forums/diy-964-1989-1994-911/198001-how-to-do-a-dme-reset.html

 

Oh I see, thats why I had to let the 965 sit and idle for 10 mins after the battery had been disconnected.

 

I haven't noticed any water leaking out but then I haven't really checked. Nothing in the garage (Except a few drops of oil!) and nothing in the driveway when I let it warm up. It almost sounds like I can hear a little bit of a leak in it... But it is so loud I'm not sure. I capped the exhaust tip and didn't hear any whistling though...

I just ordered a few microphones from ebay that have a long lead to them. I'll rig up something so that I can put my laptop in the passenger seat and run one of the mics out the back and next to the exhaust... I'll try it that way first. They should be here in a few days. I'll keep you posted.

 

Rather than open a new thread - I'm having fitment issues with my Vertex by-pass too.

For the record: I'm all stock exhaust, my stock cat had gotten rusty and broken the flange weld so I moved to the "sport cat".

I followed Rick's procedure: tighten the donut end down first, then pull things together with the nuts&bolts on the 4-bolt flange. The cat seems a good 1/4" or so too short. I loosened the clamps on the intermediate muffler before tightening up the flange too.

Even still, when I pulled the bolts on the flange tight the ears on the header side of the flange must have bent slightly. I have exhaust leaks on all four sides of the flange at the point between the bolts. I can feel exhaust blowing on my fingers on each side and I can obviously hear it.

I figure that I can double-up the metal gasket at the flange. But I need to be able to bend the corners of the flange back into shape.

Any ideas how to accomplish this? I can use a map-gas torch to soften up the metal some. But I'm at a loss otherwise. And a new set of headers seems overkill.

Thanks!

Oh yeah impressions- so far the increased noise is noticeable, even ignoring the exhaust leak portion. HP/TQ seems to be maybe slightly improved via the butt dyno. What I did notice was considerably better throttle response. For some reason taking off from a stop always had a strange feel when the clutch grabbed. It is much easier to modulate a smooth takeoff now. I have no idea why...

 

Mine has started to leak too... Yet another thing to work on. After my Hall Sensor issue!

 

Have you measured the length of the bypass and how it compares to the length of the original cat? In my experience Porsche made the original exhaust system with a very tight tolerance i.e. the cat is an exact fit between the heat exchanger manifold and primary silencer. If your bypass is even a quarter inch shorter there is not enough adjustment in the system to compensate for it. If you find that your bypass is indeed shorter I would go back to the manufacturer and tell them about the problem.