Rebuild Options
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 963
Likes: 1
From: Birmingham, UK.
but its tolerances and minute measurements and bearing clearances that worry me, if it was just heres and engine, heres a bag of parts, i'm sure i could do it. If I had some space.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,312
Likes: 10
From: Roseville, CA
One of the things Anderson and Woods both told me many, many, many moons ago was that everything for 911's pretty much "fits". Now that's not to say you don't measure everything, and double check the machine work. But any aluminum case I've ever pulled apart that went back together with a standard crank worked just fine with standard bearings. Of course everyone's anecdotal experience differs.........
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 963
Likes: 1
From: Birmingham, UK.
270k km's on the car too :S... I think the best solution would be for me to strip it back to a short block, and have the bottom end and heads redone, then i'll fit manifolds and ancilliaries etc etc...
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,291
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From: Portland, Oregon
Race Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,922
Likes: 1
From: London, UK
I would recommend that anyone who owns an older performance car of any make, has some sort of slush fuund or starts to put away cash for some of the larger maintenance issues that *will* come in the future. In the UK, I would recommend that anyne who owns a 964 should put aside at least 200gbp per month starting as soon as or even before they acquire the car. In this way, one achieves your goal without pissing off the wife by having a 964 in pieces for a long period of time and all over the place when the time comes. Additionally, you do not have to have the car off the road for such a long period which means that by planning ahead you ensure a smaller break in your own pleasure time.
Race Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,922
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From: London, UK
I have rebuilt engines before, but nothing of this scale, i'm talking 1.4 turbos, subb 200bhp... Not sure i'd have the required skill to work to the tighter tolerances.
I can take it out myself, and refit no problem, that will save a large wedge of cash.
I wont sell the car and buy a none leaky one, its taken 12 months of graft to get it this far, with around $15k spent...
It pulls 277 on minimal mods, so yes i could just reseal, but while its out, i may as well have it all refreshed... It is slightly tempting to do myself, but I just dont have the time, and the fear is starting, and not being able to finish, then forgetting where it all went.
The best case for starters is to strip down and take to someone who can warranty a rebuild.
I'll be taking a look this weekend to determine the problem... fingers crossed its something simple.
I can take it out myself, and refit no problem, that will save a large wedge of cash.
I wont sell the car and buy a none leaky one, its taken 12 months of graft to get it this far, with around $15k spent...
It pulls 277 on minimal mods, so yes i could just reseal, but while its out, i may as well have it all refreshed... It is slightly tempting to do myself, but I just dont have the time, and the fear is starting, and not being able to finish, then forgetting where it all went.
The best case for starters is to strip down and take to someone who can warranty a rebuild.
I'll be taking a look this weekend to determine the problem... fingers crossed its something simple.
Putting aside money for maintenance on top of what you may spend on mods is damn useful....
Goood lucl!
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 820
Likes: 1
From: Europe
Demonfish, a thought is have Unit 11 in warrington do it. Danny really knows his stuff on engine builds.. every time I drop in he's always on 'another' rebuild. I dont think their prices are that bad.
chris
chris
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 963
Likes: 1
From: Birmingham, UK.
i'm still investigating....
i cleaned the underside and ran it till hot. Timing cover left side started to weep. as did rocker that side... but no drips - but i'm guessing when driving these will get blown about. It looks like the majority of the puddle comes from where the oil coats the back bumper and pri silencer, then it runs down when i stop.
Annoyingly though, i have oil smoke coming out of that sides heat exchanger, so its definately running down from somewhere. Inlet off i think, take a look from the top next...
i cleaned the underside and ran it till hot. Timing cover left side started to weep. as did rocker that side... but no drips - but i'm guessing when driving these will get blown about. It looks like the majority of the puddle comes from where the oil coats the back bumper and pri silencer, then it runs down when i stop.
Annoyingly though, i have oil smoke coming out of that sides heat exchanger, so its definately running down from somewhere. Inlet off i think, take a look from the top next...
Pro
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 608
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From: Calgary, Alberta. CANADA
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Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 978
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From: Delaware
if it's leaking from the top, you should look at the power steering seals and the oil sender. Both are common leaks and semi-easy to fix. both of these will leak down to the passenger side heat exchanger.
I also have the oil return line from the bottom of the sump now leaking and blowing back to the bumper.
All of these can be fixed without dropping the engine.
I also have the oil return line from the bottom of the sump now leaking and blowing back to the bumper.
All of these can be fixed without dropping the engine.