Best one-person brake bleeder?
07-23-2008, 01:58 PM
#17
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Ditto on the Motiv... I have the plastic lid model and sure the metal lid is nice but the plastic one is not an issue at all. Works great for the clutch, calipers, pressure accumulator and valve body. Brake bleed on all 8 caliper bleeds only takes about 10-15 mins max if the wheels are off.
I'm not sure you could bleed the C4s pressure accumulator and valve body with out it. Someone else can chime in on that.
Very handy tool!
I'm not sure you could bleed the C4s pressure accumulator and valve body with out it. Someone else can chime in on that.
Very handy tool!
07-23-2008, 06:12 PM
#18
I have used pressure but switched to gravity bleeding. Gravity bleeding takes 5 times longer than pressure bleeding, but the results are equal. I found the time to service the car does not increase, because I adjust valves at the same time I am bleeding. When you get back on your feet to move the crank for the next set of valves, it is time to top up the reservoir and move to the next bleed nipple. Pressure bleeding requires full-time attention, and don't get enough time to do anything productive while bleeding is underway.
Get a fuel hose with a snug fit over the bleed nipple (clutch is a different size). Route the hose to the bottom of an open coffee can on the ground at a place you can observe it. Replacing amber fluid with blue and vice-versa helps to determine when old fluid has been displaced. It speeds things along if you suction most of the old fluid out of the reservoir first.
Gravity works well, especially after the hose fills with fluid and siphon action improves. It takes about 20minutes per fitting for a routine bleed, and about double when there was air to purge after replacing the clutch slave and the brake hoses. It takes about 40 minutes to drain the reservoir, so you need to stay awake. Bubbles exiting the hose stop when the air is purged. I have excellent brake and clutch action even after purging air from the system.
Get a fuel hose with a snug fit over the bleed nipple (clutch is a different size). Route the hose to the bottom of an open coffee can on the ground at a place you can observe it. Replacing amber fluid with blue and vice-versa helps to determine when old fluid has been displaced. It speeds things along if you suction most of the old fluid out of the reservoir first.
Gravity works well, especially after the hose fills with fluid and siphon action improves. It takes about 20minutes per fitting for a routine bleed, and about double when there was air to purge after replacing the clutch slave and the brake hoses. It takes about 40 minutes to drain the reservoir, so you need to stay awake. Bubbles exiting the hose stop when the air is purged. I have excellent brake and clutch action even after purging air from the system.
Any thoughts?
07-23-2008, 07:36 PM
#19
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07-23-2008, 07:47 PM
#20
Professor of Pending Projects
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Why the heck I did not think about that?! Great!! Going to the garage right now to do that, I have all the parts to do so. Great idea!
07-23-2008, 08:09 PM
#21
Instructor
I recall my only criticism of the unit was the rubber sealing ring in the cap, I had to pry the one out of the cap for the brake fluid res. and use that to get a good seal.
07-23-2008, 08:49 PM
#22
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According to the factory manual, the pressure bleeder is removed from the system to bleed the axial and lateral locks. The 9288 Bosch Hammer is used in conjunction with the key switch which activates the hi pressure pump. Then the hammer is used in the correct program to choose the lock to bleed in the proper order.
Pressure bleeder is used on the clutch, calipers, accumulator and lock valve body.
07-23-2008, 08:53 PM
#23
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That is correct.
According to the factory manual, the pressure bleeder is removed from the system to bleed the axial and lateral locks. The 9288 Bosch Hammer is used in conjunction with the key switch which activates the hi pressure pump. Then the hammer is used in the correct program to choose the lock to bleed in the proper order.
Pressure bleeder is used on the clutch, calipers, accumulator and lock valve body.
According to the factory manual, the pressure bleeder is removed from the system to bleed the axial and lateral locks. The 9288 Bosch Hammer is used in conjunction with the key switch which activates the hi pressure pump. Then the hammer is used in the correct program to choose the lock to bleed in the proper order.
Pressure bleeder is used on the clutch, calipers, accumulator and lock valve body.
07-23-2008, 09:01 PM
#24
Nordschleife Master
Si! (for the inline swivel action. Much thanks for giving me that idea a while back!)
For the universal part, get the smallest, cheapest 1/2"-thick poly cutting board from Walmart, drill and tap in a 3/8" brass (plumbing thread) pressure stub, lay this and a 1/4"-thick layer of softish rubber skin (for sealing onto your simple corolla's reservoir), and do the ol' chain-around-the-master-cylinder-body-clamping of the poly board down onto the reservoir top (like Motive does!).
Then hook'er up to the pump -- and get'r done!
Here's roughly what it looks like. (Only mine's a flat white board, resting on a soft seal of red rubber.)
So I have one pump but two brake reservoir adapters! One for the 964, one for the corolla. (Thank goodness for those cheap, swiveling pneumatic 'qwik' disconnects!)
In the end, it's ugly, but it works fine and it's cheap.
And it satisfies that MacGuiver itch in spades.
That rubber seal 'sheet' can be found in the plumbing aisle at Lowes, red, in 10" x 10" (?) squares. (97 cents each?) Cut a center hole in it -- voila! -- instant cap seal.
For the universal part, get the smallest, cheapest 1/2"-thick poly cutting board from Walmart, drill and tap in a 3/8" brass (plumbing thread) pressure stub, lay this and a 1/4"-thick layer of softish rubber skin (for sealing onto your simple corolla's reservoir), and do the ol' chain-around-the-master-cylinder-body-clamping of the poly board down onto the reservoir top (like Motive does!).
Then hook'er up to the pump -- and get'r done!
Here's roughly what it looks like. (Only mine's a flat white board, resting on a soft seal of red rubber.)
So I have one pump but two brake reservoir adapters! One for the 964, one for the corolla. (Thank goodness for those cheap, swiveling pneumatic 'qwik' disconnects!)
In the end, it's ugly, but it works fine and it's cheap.
And it satisfies that MacGuiver itch in spades.
That rubber seal 'sheet' can be found in the plumbing aisle at Lowes, red, in 10" x 10" (?) squares. (97 cents each?) Cut a center hole in it -- voila! -- instant cap seal.
Last edited by elbeee964; 07-23-2008 at 09:20 PM.
07-24-2008, 11:36 AM
#25
Rennlist Member
I had a problem recently recently using Motive on my wife's C2 and wonder if anyone else has experience this? I pump the Motive bleeder to 10 psi to flush and bleed the brakes on my 944S2 with no problem. However, I used it to flush my wife's 93 C2 and at 5 psi brake fluid started to come out from behind the wheel well (that is where it was running on the floor). I took the plastic cover inside wheel well off, but could not see any thing. There seems to be an over flow on the brake fluid reservoir. Is that the case? What is the best way to use motive on C2?
BTW, I ended up flushing the brakes the old fashioned way by pumping the pedal.
TIA
BTW, I ended up flushing the brakes the old fashioned way by pumping the pedal.
TIA
07-24-2008, 11:55 AM
#26
IHI KING!
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I had a problem recently recently using Motive on my wife's C2 and wonder if anyone else has experience this? I pump the Motive bleeder to 10 psi to flush and bleed the brakes on my 944S2 with no problem. However, I used it to flush my wife's 93 C2 and at 5 psi brake fluid started to come out from behind the wheel well (that is where it was running on the floor). I took the plastic cover inside wheel well off, but could not see any thing. There seems to be an over flow on the brake fluid reservoir. Is that the case? What is the best way to use motive on C2?
BTW, I ended up flushing the brakes the old fashioned way by pumping the pedal.
TIA
BTW, I ended up flushing the brakes the old fashioned way by pumping the pedal.
TIA
07-24-2008, 01:08 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
Rob,
I did not clamp the overflow. Can I use a vicegrip to clamp the hose? I was able to get some pressure untill the fluid started to blow out which is how I noticed the overflow.
I did not clamp the overflow. Can I use a vicegrip to clamp the hose? I was able to get some pressure untill the fluid started to blow out which is how I noticed the overflow.
07-24-2008, 01:33 PM
#29
Nordschleife Master
You can easily overdo it, so easy on that poor, cloth-overbraided vent line.
I take a little 1" length of slit tygon tubing (& lay it over the vent line) as a sacrificial/protection layer between metal jaw & vent line. I don't feel so bad about puttin' a good squeeze on the vent line, that way. The tygon stays loosely in place after the job's done, so I just leave it there on the vent line, waiting for the next bleed.
Last edited by elbeee964; 07-24-2008 at 05:12 PM.
07-24-2008, 05:02 PM
#30
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I use hose pinch-off pliers. Works great and doesn't harm the hose. Originally bought them to shut off flexible fuel lines when working on them, but it works perfect for brake lines too. About $11 here.
