CWay27

Well fellas I just spent over 3 hours on the track and I'm here to share a few reviews. For those who haven't read my previous thread about latest mods here's a recap.

- RS shift linkage with spherical joints and universal joint for tranny rod.
- Gutted the brake bias valve.
- Nitto NT-01 in 235 - 275

Before I headed out to the track, I had the car aligned and the final specs are;

Front:
Caster: 3.90 degrees
Camber: -2.96 degrees
Toe: 0.02" total= 0.04"

Rear:
Camber: -3.00 degrees
Toe: 0.08" total= 0.16"

So the other morning I got in the car and drove 130Km (75miles) to Tremblant. My very first impression is that the tires are noisy.

The sun was present but track temp was just above freezing temp. I bleed the tires down to 30Lbs cold and took it easy for a couple of laps. Tires were getting greasy after 20 mins and pressure were at 38Lbs. I dropped the temp down to 36 and went back out for another 30mins. By then the temp were back up to 37-38Lbs. Anyhow after 3 back to back 30min sessions, I found 36-34 to be excellent. These tires stick, stick, stick and will let you know when they'll let go. After a little more then 3 hours of track time, the tires performed to my expectations and wore evenly. These tires like a lot of negative camber and even after 150miles of highway and 3 hours of track time, they still show like new.

As for my brakes, I run big reds in the front and regular RSA rear calipers. Last year I was going through front rotors like crazy and never had to change rear ones. After reading posts from Garrett and others, I decided to gut the bias valve and re-install it empty. I flushed the entire system and installed new front rotors (1994 3.6T) with pagid RS29 and plain rear rotors with pagid RS14. I used Motul RBF600 for fluid and the brakes work amazingly. The car didn't nose dive as much and pedal was firm the entire 1.5 hour I was out. The best part is that everything looks brand new where as before I had little cracks showing just after 2 days at an PCA event (8X20min sessions).

Now regarding the shift linkage, mine was getting sloppy and sometimes I had hard time finding the gear since there was too much play. So it was time to address the problem but at a reasonable cost. The RS shift lever and fork is not expensive and cost about 100$ but the RS shift rod is over 500$ and wasn't going to pay that. I also noticed that the weltmeister kit included spherical heim joints and thought I should try to make my own. After a few calculations and measuring, I ended up making my own rods with spherical joints and welded a universal joint for the tranny ala 993 RS coupled with RS shift lever and fork. The result is phenomenal and is precise and short. It's a click click type of sound. If you guys ever want to make your own, search over the 993 board for a thread about RS shift linkage that has about 5 pages. Here's what it looks like.

Overall I am absolutely pleased with the stuff I did and made the car feel like new. Happy track season to all!!

sturm_old

What is the bias without the valve (50/50?). Did you notice any difference in handling while under braking.

Some guys have gone to a brake bias valve from the turbo which worked the rear brake a little harder but I don't recall the f/r ratio.


Allan

CWay27

I am not 100% sure but I think it brings it to 50/50. When I did this mod I wasn't so sure of the result and that's why I took the first session easy. I was afraid of rear lockup but lap after lap I would brake harder and never experience it. Now my problem (and it doesn't have anything to do with bias) is bumpsteer and I'm afraid I'll have to go with complete evo kit.

demonfish

good news about the braking, i have a spare valve from steve that i will now strip out and install... i have big reds and rs rears also... glad it feels good!

ThomasC2

I just skipped the bias valve this year and connected the two pipes straight on. the cup cars just have a piece of brake pipe and not an empty valve. I can't tell about the wear yet but the car feels much more stable in the rear under heavy braking. Happy with this easy mod!

CWay27

That's what I wanted to do Thomas but had trouble bending my lines and trying to stretch them, so I decided to gut her out.

Bill Verburg

964 bias w/ either Big red or 993/S4/RS front calipers on 322mm rotors & 30/34 rear calipers is just a tad more front biased than all the SC/Carrera cars w/o a p/v

No, you don't really need a p/v, but then neither does a stock 964

Dwane

Good to hear you got her together in time! When were you at LCMT?
Dwane

CWay27

Thanks Bill for the info. At first I was just afraid of the rear locking up under hard braking.

Dwane, I was there last wednesday for a private day.

Ritter v4.0

Good review- thanks for sharing.

Marc Shaw

Carl:

Thanks for the updates....but a couple of questions:

What is the part number for the big red disks and where did you get them? My front disks have some small cracks from 5 track days (Pagid Blacks) already so I'll need a spare set soon.

Did the RSA originally come with an airbag? Any concerns about removing it from a coverage perspective (ie. insurance)?

Got a spare brake bias valve so I can gut mine?

Marc

junkart

Hi Cway! sorry for the slight off topic...But how's your toe-in setup on freeway? is the steering twitchy? i think i setup my front close to yours, but my rear one is pretty neutral... the steering feels a bit too sensitive on the crappy concrete socal freeway. awesome at the track tho.

CWay27

Mark the part number for front disks are 965-351-045 and 965-351-046. I got mine from suncoast at 151$ each. I find them to be the cheapest. Yes the RSA did come originally with airbag and now the driver side is gone and the other is deactivated using a little dummy plug located in the center console (access from passenger side little access trap). I have no problem with insurance..... I guess!!

CWay27

On the hway the car feels great. The advise I got was to put slightly some toe in cause when cornering hard, the load on the suspension will make it open a bit and toe in will be closer to 0. These cars generate toe out on load so don't add more on initial settings.

Marc Shaw

Thanks.

Marc