Do you have an inductive type timing light ?
If you do , hook it onto the coil wire when the car runs bad .
Does the light flash just like when the car was running well ?
Then try the other coil wire .

If you have a one wire timing light like the flaming river one wire ,
you can check for spark on any wire real quick and easy .

 

we put in my coils and we went for a 45 drive. Before that he had been driving around for 45-50 minutes with his own coils and then he only had one quick misfire where the engine almost died but then picked up again after a second or two. During our testrun the car run as is should except for one glitch with my coils, but that could probably depend on old petrol or whatever. He will drive around with my coils for another day or two. If it goes well he will change back to his coils again and see what happens.
Hopefully the soloution was just a new O2 sensor and a DME reset. I'll be back!

 

OK, there are still problems. Read my friends story from yesterday. Suggestions?

" I followed your instructions so far .

I went for another test spin today and it all started fine but after aprox 40 min it started to missfire again at 3rd gear, 3000rpm and a steady throttle. Unfortunately its not a problem that stays steady so I cant provoke it to happen whenever I want to. It feels like an old car with to much choke.

I cant swear on it but it seems to occur in the midrev area 3000-3500rpm and when its a little bit cold outside. Yesterday the sun was shining and I could drive for 90min without any problems. When I drove home the sun went down and so did the temp. Then I had one small hesitation in the throttle respons but it quick went away.

Today it was much more and as always it corrects itself before I can test the ignition wires with a tool.

The only thing that really is different from yesterday is that it is colder today than yesterday. When I drove home today it was 12C (54F) and in the beginning of the testspin 20C (69F) The problem occured in the end of the testing. Can this be a part of the problem or am Im going mad?"

 

Thomas - I understand you don't have a hammer. Have you considered getting one of Ricardo's ScanTool kits? I have one and it works great. See https://rennlist.com/forums/964-forum/367516-obd1-scantool-interface-group-buy-fully-assembled.html

I'm still convinced that you will see one or more error codes that will help narrow down your problem.

 

No we don't have a hammer at the moment. but I just saw this other thread from mshobe about his car running rough. It sounds very similiar so we'll check this tonight!

 

I'd strongly suggest you take it to a shop with a Hammer and get the codes scanned. Should uncover your problem for about an hour's labor charge (which is what it would cost in the States).

 

Yes Richard, that will be the next step. My friend tested the TSB-fix with the contact yesterday but it didn't improve things. He will be away for the weekend but early next week he'll take the car to a workshop we know of. Becuase now the car at least is possible to drive even if it doesn't run properply all the time.

 

I see you perceive a difference in the engine dieing according to temperature. And that it tends to happen when the engine is nice and warm. This makes me wonder about a potential vacuum leak. A leak might be occurring when everything expands with heat. A simple, no cost thing to do is to check the hose clamps on the inlet manifolds. Check the hoses are all seated well and then give the clamps a little tighten. I know this has worked for me and a few others.

 

I think he checked that but I'll remind him!

 

Update.

-O2 sensor did improve things slightly (maybe)
-fuel filter replaced, no change
-fuel tank beeing cleande right now but no strange stuff could be seen
-tempsensor at cylinder 2 changed, no difference
-we have used a hammer but the chip turned out not be stock so the hammer couldn't read it. But we installed another DME and the same problems appeared. With this other DME the Hammer doesn't show any eror codes.
-It seems like most of the problems are around 3000 rpms. Idle is OK and full throttle also.
-Coils checked before.

We start to run out of ideas, but it feels like it should be a ignition problem and not fuel or air.
Next thing we are thinking of is the flywheel sensor that we heard can turn bad.

Any input guys?!

 

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...43&postcount=4

This fix has been posted in other threads. Doesn't sound like it matches your symptoms but it is such and easy fix and good for all engines that it should be done anyway if not already.

 

Link doesn't work

 

Still trying to figure out how to work the posts.

You can get a working link from the thread titled "Car Loses Power" yesterday.

 

Here's the link = https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ar+loses+power

By the way, if you just copy and paste URL's to the message box, they work. There is a fancier way to make them but you don't have to if you don't want to. I typically use the lazy way.

 

We have done the AFM TSB fix. But we will have a look at the hall sensor connected to the distributor.