So is kos saying genuine Speedlines are the same weight as Cup1's? This can't be right...

 

It's a little confusing as the Cup 1s are narrower than the Speedlines, but if you do the math you'll find the Speedlines are lighter on a like-for-like basis.

 

No center caps. Automotion has a set for sale look to be similar aftemarket version cost is nearly $400 for the set. I just purchased a set of vintage painted with crest was planning on stripping them down polishing them and clear coating, hopefully they will match. If not let me know if yours come close. Even if I decide to sell the polished speedlines everyone I speak with is only interested if they can have a set of polished center caps which makes sense.

Yes the yellow tag is aligned with the valve stem. See picture.

Bill the 5 spoke Carrera 996 wheel is one of the lighter wheels Porsche used other than the early 15 and 16's. They are made by BBS and although cast the barrel is made thick and then rolled under pressure to make it thin to give them strength and maintain light weight. Probably the best Porsche wheel made. I have a weight of 20.46 front 8 x 18 and 22.66 rear 10 x 18 even the Carrera S 19" 5 spokes weigh only 22.22 for the 8 x 19 and 24.2 for the 9.5 x 19.

BTW thanks for sharing. This is like Speedline **** thread. LOL

17" cup I's aren't light for a 17" wheel. the 7 x 17" weighs in at 20.46# and 9 x 17's weigh in at 25.96#'s the 8 x 17's used one the RSA rears weigh in at 22# each, so they are slightly lighter but not much. Even your D90's aren't light considering 8 x 16''s weigh 18.7#'s and 9 x16" weigh 22#'s. Don't forget tires vary by size and brand so you could find with a heavy tire on a 17 it could weigh more than a speedline with a lighter tire. You also have more rubber to achieve same rolling diameter with a smaller wheel which could impact unsprung weight.

The really light weight wheels are either the early fuchs or the cast magnesium wheels. Don't forget Porsche is building a street car and to put light weight wheels on a car would mean more likelihood of damage and the original Fuchs were amazing in the forging process but I couldn't comprehend what it would cost to make single piece forged wheels to shape today.

 

Anthony, what I discovered was I had to remove the center crest to strip and polish the centers. It seems most people who try to remove these center caps used a screw driver so the edges have to be sanded to remove the imperfections. Hopefully yours are not all dinged up. A lot of work to be sure.

Jim

 

hi guys, considering saving weight is in my opinion a package, wheels tyres and spacers !?
I have done some home work and the lighter and cost effectif solution that I found ( but may not look period) is OZ magnesium 8x18 and 10x18 540€ each no spacer required or the lighter and to expensive is the Dymag mag/carbone 6kg/6,5kg very strong apparently made to your ET spec.
Konstantin

 

Many people don't like magnesium wheels for street duty. They corrode easily, don't age well etc. Nevertheless, you can find real magnesium Cup 1s (7.5 and 9 x 17) in Germany as per 964 RS, see ebay no 200179479138 and 200133519976 that are much lighter than standard and look "right". Dymags are on a different level altogether.

 

Hi AVoyvoda, I have seen these wheels for sale 4000,00€ +post it is an option, the Oz are new and 18"
for 2200 €+post (inc vat and garanty no cracks) I just both a set of original speedline mag on ebay for2300€ took a chance as their centres are all over powder coated and not drilled where the 5 nuts are going ( so never been used) the Dymag are fantastic I when in Jon Okley Gt3 aurround Brands hatch he has those wheels on the car so so smoth ( no affiliation) unbelievable!
konstantin C4

 

For that kind of money, I would get a set of BBS motorsports wheels.

 

I agree
I have both I use the 5 spokes w/cups on the trck and they feel very light.
Elliot

 

These are the cup wheels and weren't meant to be drilled. They used a center locking ring. Magnesium alloy centers with aluminum barrel. I have them weighing in at 21.56 and 23.1 pounds respectively for the 8 and 10 x 18. That is about 6 pounds lighter each than their aluminum counterparts.

I would not recommend drilling out the studs on these for 2 reasons. One you would destroy their value and 2 if not coated properly afterwards could corrode and eventually crack.

 

Hi Anthony,those look like the 993 type,do you think it would be easy to convert to central looking??but they look a bit od with the grooves for the nuts (so frustrating I can't send you the pictures) also they would need to be ovbiously be powerder coated in the drilling area ,one think they powder coated the surface that aply to the hub wich I am happy as it protected the mag for the time beeing but I want to have clean up, some have said to leave it but I am worried that it would not seat perfectly trought if the powder coating is left.
KonstantinC4

 

These are very expensive wheels almost a commodity. If you alter them you better plan on keeping them as you will be hard pressed to find the appropriate buyer.

The wheel itself is centered by the hub so seating properly shouldn't be an issue assuming you are accurate with your drilling, machining recommended. I would apply some type of coating being magnesium alloy to prevent any corrosion issues. Exposed magnesium will corrode badly especially if it gets around salty and humid conditions.