Laurence Gibbs

just curious really, to hear from those who have stripped one down as to what tends to wear out.So probably a question for Colin or Geoffrey? I will be changing my clutch in the near future and think along the lines of whilst i'm there. I'm guessing second and third gear syncro's are the worst hit, but how good are the bearings etc Advice greatly recieved.

38D

The G50/10 RS gearbox is basically the same except for the R&P and the synchros. The steel synchros will typically wear faster especially when used on the track. Contrary to popular belief, steel synchros are used to enable shifting faster...they are ~10% lighter than the brass ones, so they spin up faster. I would also carefully inspect the dog teeth on each gear as these wear too.

Everything else on the G50/10 is the same so should follow a normal trans rebuild process.

Geoffrey

You really need to check all of the tapered roller bearings for wear as well as the 4 point bearing, especially if the box has hard miles on it. Other items are as Colin mentiones and you'll want to inspect the gears themselves for wear on the syncro face. The LSD is the other obvious piece to check and replace as required. The motorsport plates are not that bad pricewise.

Laurence Gibbs

thanks for the tips guys.

pat056

What is the best transmission fluid for a G50 used exclusively on the race track and how often would you change your fluid?

Geoffrey

Mobil Delvac SHC 75w/90 which is what Porsche ships all of its Cup cars with (same basic trans). I change mine several times thoughout the season, however, that is probably more than is required. If you do not have a cooler on your trans, and you run in more than about 30 minutes, then your gear oil is going to be getting hot. The cooler the gear oil, the longer service life of the fluid and the gearbox you will have.

pat056

Thanks, Geoffrey!