Targa top wind noise!
#1
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Location: S.W. France.
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Targa top wind noise!
Quick question;
Is it normal to have wind noise from the targa top at speeds above 60/70mph?
The top is in good condition and not loose fitting anywhere that I can see.
Thanks in advance.
Marc.
Is it normal to have wind noise from the targa top at speeds above 60/70mph?
The top is in good condition and not loose fitting anywhere that I can see.
Thanks in advance.
Marc.
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If the outside skin on the Targa top is not tight, or if it was replaced and not installed correctly, that will not allow the targa top to have a snug fit at the area you are having an issue with.
#6
Is it normal to have wind noise from the targa top at speeds above 60/70mph?
On another vehicle it is called annoying, on a Porsche it's called pesonality! BTW, you didn't mention leaks too!
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Leaks aint a major problem as I dont tend to drive it much in the rain.On the few occasions I have no water has come in,but when I wash then hose the car off,the passenger window leaks.
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#8
I don't know if 964 Targa roofs are the same as the SC (I guess they are) - this might help you...
On my old SC I would have wind noise at 60mph+ if the front clips on the roof didn't lock into place as the cast 'bearers' on the roof were pushed to their fully open position. The clips grasp a shaped 'lip' on the cast bearer and are there to stop the roof fabric raising up at speed and creating wind noise. You can tell if they're not clipped in by pushing the roof up above your rear view mirror when on the move - you can hear wind noise.
They clips were little dark coloured metal brackets with two crossheaded screws holding each. They are attached to the underside of the headlining about an inch from the front edge of the roof, and about 8 inches from the sides (from memory). The very short screws go through the bracket, through the roof liner, through a metal strip inside the roof and are screwed tight into a threaded metal insert.
The holes in the metal strip are slightly elongated so the position of the bracket is adjustable. With the roof off and semi-closed (bearers untensioned, not locked straight) and lying on a blanket on the floor with head-lining facing up, loosen the screws, and pull the brackets backwards (away from the front edge) then tighten the screws as hard as possible without damaging the heads.
When you open the roof make sure the lips on the cast bearer are held by the brackets. The clips have 'spring plates' underneath them to keep them held against the lip.
If you've still got wind-noise, I remember carefully drilling the holes in the metal strips to give me more adjustability. I did this by inserting just one screw so I could slightly rotate the metal insert to use it as a 'stopper' for the drill bit. Once you've elongated the hole, rotate the insert back, insert the screw, then remove the other screw and rotate the insert to act as a stopper and drill again. Just don't drill through your roof, or loose the little metal inserts inside the roof (they are loose when the screws are removed).
The extra adjustability will enable you to move the brackets so they hold the cast lip part of the bearer.
Let me know if this doesn't make sense!
On my old SC I would have wind noise at 60mph+ if the front clips on the roof didn't lock into place as the cast 'bearers' on the roof were pushed to their fully open position. The clips grasp a shaped 'lip' on the cast bearer and are there to stop the roof fabric raising up at speed and creating wind noise. You can tell if they're not clipped in by pushing the roof up above your rear view mirror when on the move - you can hear wind noise.
They clips were little dark coloured metal brackets with two crossheaded screws holding each. They are attached to the underside of the headlining about an inch from the front edge of the roof, and about 8 inches from the sides (from memory). The very short screws go through the bracket, through the roof liner, through a metal strip inside the roof and are screwed tight into a threaded metal insert.
The holes in the metal strip are slightly elongated so the position of the bracket is adjustable. With the roof off and semi-closed (bearers untensioned, not locked straight) and lying on a blanket on the floor with head-lining facing up, loosen the screws, and pull the brackets backwards (away from the front edge) then tighten the screws as hard as possible without damaging the heads.
When you open the roof make sure the lips on the cast bearer are held by the brackets. The clips have 'spring plates' underneath them to keep them held against the lip.
If you've still got wind-noise, I remember carefully drilling the holes in the metal strips to give me more adjustability. I did this by inserting just one screw so I could slightly rotate the metal insert to use it as a 'stopper' for the drill bit. Once you've elongated the hole, rotate the insert back, insert the screw, then remove the other screw and rotate the insert to act as a stopper and drill again. Just don't drill through your roof, or loose the little metal inserts inside the roof (they are loose when the screws are removed).
The extra adjustability will enable you to move the brackets so they hold the cast lip part of the bearer.
Let me know if this doesn't make sense!
Last edited by RSGulp; 02-22-2008 at 02:01 PM.
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Problem solved!
Adjusted the roller bearing catches today,as suggested,and guess what?success! not no wind noise but greatly reduced,well acceptable.I just needed to elongate the hole for the insertion of the locking/un-locking tool,with a Dremill.
Excelent fix,
Thanks for all the great advice.
Excelent fix,
Thanks for all the great advice.