Bubbles around rear window seal
12-26-2007, 10:36 AM
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Bubbles around rear window seal
I now have 3 bubbles at the bottom of the rear window seal (see pic).
What's the concensus, wait until really bad, or sort as soon as possible?
Instictively I would get these sorted asap..
Any reccomendations in the Midlands (UK) for a good shop to fix this?
What's the concensus, wait until really bad, or sort as soon as possible?
Instictively I would get these sorted asap..
Any reccomendations in the Midlands (UK) for a good shop to fix this?
Last edited by CraigyB; 05-27-2009 at 11:56 AM.
12-26-2007, 01:48 PM
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How much are you willing to spend? From what you show, you can arrest the rust and have no worse than a touch-up cosmetic blemish. If it were my car, and I did not want to spring for glass removal, here is what I would do:
1) Break off the bubbles
2) Gently lift the seal away from the rust cell, and scrape the loose rust away. Prop the seal out of the way. Vacuum away all loose rust and debris (important step of you want the glass seal to go back).
3) Apply Naval Jelly, and let it sit for half an hour. That will dissolve the remaining rust and passivate the surface.
4) Apply Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer, using an art brush. Cover the entire rust cell and some overlap onto sound paint.
5) Apply one light coat of matching touch-up paint.
6) Remove the props holding the seal up, and let it settle back on the metal. If you were careful to avoid build-up, the seal should over time settle back to the surface.
7) Take care of the cosmetics with touch-up and 1000 grit wet sanding.
You will stop the advance of the rust and preserve the value of the car. Any future respray will need to include glass removal just to ensure other lurking rust cells are stopped.
1) Break off the bubbles
2) Gently lift the seal away from the rust cell, and scrape the loose rust away. Prop the seal out of the way. Vacuum away all loose rust and debris (important step of you want the glass seal to go back).
3) Apply Naval Jelly, and let it sit for half an hour. That will dissolve the remaining rust and passivate the surface.
4) Apply Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer, using an art brush. Cover the entire rust cell and some overlap onto sound paint.
5) Apply one light coat of matching touch-up paint.
6) Remove the props holding the seal up, and let it settle back on the metal. If you were careful to avoid build-up, the seal should over time settle back to the surface.
7) Take care of the cosmetics with touch-up and 1000 grit wet sanding.
You will stop the advance of the rust and preserve the value of the car. Any future respray will need to include glass removal just to ensure other lurking rust cells are stopped.
12-27-2007, 01:37 AM
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I had a few like that at the front and went for a glass-out repair.
I am very glad I did as it was a bit more extensive than it appeared and not just cosmetic....
Marc
I am very glad I did as it was a bit more extensive than it appeared and not just cosmetic....
Marc
12-27-2007, 05:13 AM
#5
Hi Craig
I had these a few years back and I used a 'shop' in Colchester that was recommended to me by a 964 register member. I took out both front and rear windows, and had both ends done - because as someone else has said, it can be more extensive than it looks.
A couple of tips:
1. Do you have insurance for windscreen etc (with a low excesss)? If so, this will come in handy as sometimes they have to break the glass to get it out....this means a quick call to your insurance company so that you can arrange for the windows to be replaced once the bodyshop has done the work.
2. Always replace the rubber seals, and Porsche used to (and probably still do) charge a fortune....I got mine at type911 from memory....
3. There has been extensive debate about whether the windows are sealed in place after replacement. Adrian Streather (this was before his book, but I am usre it also says it in there) says that the windows should be sealed in place. I spoke to several glass replacement firms (not just Autoglass) and they all said that it is not at all necessary, the new seals will be fine. I went down the route of *not* sealing mine and they have been fine for the last 4 years, with no reoccurrence to the eye of any rust. There are certainly no leaks, and less condensation in the car since it was done.....I guess you can make up your mind?
The place I used in Colchester, charged I think £1100 all in (with glass replaced by insurance) which included treating the rust, repainting the roof, rear and front panels down to bonnet, as well as the spoiler/engine lid itself as it was slightly faded. I think the engine lid/spoiler added about 200-250 quid to the price IIRC.
(p.s. - say to the insurance company that you have badly stonechipped windows and that they need replacing - it worked fine for me!)
Hope that helps!
I had these a few years back and I used a 'shop' in Colchester that was recommended to me by a 964 register member. I took out both front and rear windows, and had both ends done - because as someone else has said, it can be more extensive than it looks.
A couple of tips:
1. Do you have insurance for windscreen etc (with a low excesss)? If so, this will come in handy as sometimes they have to break the glass to get it out....this means a quick call to your insurance company so that you can arrange for the windows to be replaced once the bodyshop has done the work.
2. Always replace the rubber seals, and Porsche used to (and probably still do) charge a fortune....I got mine at type911 from memory....
3. There has been extensive debate about whether the windows are sealed in place after replacement. Adrian Streather (this was before his book, but I am usre it also says it in there) says that the windows should be sealed in place. I spoke to several glass replacement firms (not just Autoglass) and they all said that it is not at all necessary, the new seals will be fine. I went down the route of *not* sealing mine and they have been fine for the last 4 years, with no reoccurrence to the eye of any rust. There are certainly no leaks, and less condensation in the car since it was done.....I guess you can make up your mind?
The place I used in Colchester, charged I think £1100 all in (with glass replaced by insurance) which included treating the rust, repainting the roof, rear and front panels down to bonnet, as well as the spoiler/engine lid itself as it was slightly faded. I think the engine lid/spoiler added about 200-250 quid to the price IIRC.
(p.s. - say to the insurance company that you have badly stonechipped windows and that they need replacing - it worked fine for me!)
Hope that helps!
12-27-2007, 05:56 AM
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Hi Craig - My front screen looked like that on the surface but was much worse under the paint and seal. I would either leave it and monitor carefully or have the rear window out, seal removed (probably need replacing due to embedded rust) and the area affected taken back to metal, patched if neccessary, liquid galvanised and repainted. Dont know any paint shops in your area unfortunately. Cheers... Ian
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12-27-2007, 07:08 AM
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Cheers all,
the big bubble on the right has been there 4.5 years ago when I bought the car, the other 2 are newcomers. Will most likely get this done properly, just need to find somewhere. Autofarm aren't so far away, and they seem to have a track record in restoration, so may be a good place to start. It's always good to get a word of mouth recommendation though!
the big bubble on the right has been there 4.5 years ago when I bought the car, the other 2 are newcomers. Will most likely get this done properly, just need to find somewhere. Autofarm aren't so far away, and they seem to have a track record in restoration, so may be a good place to start. It's always good to get a word of mouth recommendation though!
12-27-2007, 01:18 PM
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Hi Craig,
I'm not a million miles away from you in Peterborough and would strongly recommend Tim Couzens in Stamford, South Lincs. He's now done several jobs on my C4 over the years including a windscreen out front scuttle rust repair and I've always been very happy with his work. He's also very reasonbly priced (recently did a rear bumper repair and respray for £250 when the OPC quoted £1100!).
He does all the bodywork I believe for TWG Motorsport (P'boro independent Porsche specialist) and his contact details are 01780 482005.
Not the most salubrious of premises but always several Porsches around and the quality of his work speaks for itself IMHO.
Not sure where you are in Northants but he may not be too far from you at all.
I have no connection with him other than as a very happy customer!
Good luck,
David
I'm not a million miles away from you in Peterborough and would strongly recommend Tim Couzens in Stamford, South Lincs. He's now done several jobs on my C4 over the years including a windscreen out front scuttle rust repair and I've always been very happy with his work. He's also very reasonbly priced (recently did a rear bumper repair and respray for £250 when the OPC quoted £1100!).
He does all the bodywork I believe for TWG Motorsport (P'boro independent Porsche specialist) and his contact details are 01780 482005.
Not the most salubrious of premises but always several Porsches around and the quality of his work speaks for itself IMHO.
Not sure where you are in Northants but he may not be too far from you at all.
I have no connection with him other than as a very happy customer!
Good luck,
David
12-28-2007, 06:04 AM
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Hi Craig - DJS's recommendation sounds good to me. I had my rear bumper & under passenger side sill done by Craig of Vehicle Refinishers in Yeadon (who I previously mentioned to you). Cost £375 so figure for DJS's bumper is in line and if his work is recommended well worth a short trip to the east!
12-28-2007, 10:21 PM
#11
If you get a new Porsche gasket just make sure they have used that batch just recently. I found the batch I got were oversized. So the only way to get a new windshield in was to cut down the glass by about an 1/8", and it was still very snug.
For the common rust bubbles, you really don't know what you have until remove the gasket. If was me, I would do the approach from springer 3. It is possible the rust is so bad the glass shop will not replace the windshield until all the rust if repaired.
So my route with 911 windshields is not when they they will break, but when it will break. So that said, if windshield is in good condition - repair the surface rust (single stage red is rather easy to match), and if windshield breaks than dive deeper.
For the common rust bubbles, you really don't know what you have until remove the gasket. If was me, I would do the approach from springer 3. It is possible the rust is so bad the glass shop will not replace the windshield until all the rust if repaired.
So my route with 911 windshields is not when they they will break, but when it will break. So that said, if windshield is in good condition - repair the surface rust (single stage red is rather easy to match), and if windshield breaks than dive deeper.
