Sand Blast D90's?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Sand Blast D90's?
This is not to be a start of a discussion on the D90's. I have a set that needs to be refinished, however I am trying to keep cost down. The paint is bad and needs to be removed before repainting. Would it hurt them to have them sand blasted to prepare them for repainting (maybe black if I can get it past the wife).
Thanks,
Duck
Thanks,
Duck
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks. Is there any good chemical stripper that would work? I tried the basic spray type and it did not do anything. I guess it has to be some hard core stuff to get through that paint.
The reason for the D90's is that I have some ugly looking 18" TGF chrome ones on there now. I have the original D90's and they would look a lot better. I just do not have a lot of money to spend on new wheels and then have to buy tires.
The reason for the D90's is that I have some ugly looking 18" TGF chrome ones on there now. I have the original D90's and they would look a lot better. I just do not have a lot of money to spend on new wheels and then have to buy tires.
#6
Nordschleife Master
Klean-Strip® KS-3 Premium Stripper is the most powerful stripper for the toughest jobs. It strips multiple layers of latex and oil-based paint, polyurethane, epoxy, varnish and shellac from wood, metal and masonry surfaces. Removes most coatings in 15 minutes or less. The paste formula clings to vertical surfaces without runs or drips.
#7
Rennlist Member
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Hey Duck, I recently did a D-90 refinish. I went the route of polishing instead of painting, but I did experiment with bead blasting. What I found was bead blasting works great getting the surface off of all layers EXCEPT the anodized part that is painted black. I thought it was just black paint on aluminum, but NOOOOO, it's anodized and then painted which is MUCH harder. The blasting works fine on the black paint, it's the layer under the black that is a bear. If you are going to take the black paint off and then repaint that part, then bead blasting is great. I wanted to take mine all down to the AL and then polish it, which turned out harder. Here's a thread I posted on polishing:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-forum/371832-polishing-my-d90s.html
Feel free to ask some specific questions as you dig into this. I'm happy to help. And don't let them give you any **** about your D90s. They are really great wheels and they are both light and historically accurate. A fine choice for a classic 964.
The Kean Strip KS-3 that Indy mentions sounds similar to the aircraft stripper that I used. I went with the aircraft stripper 'cause I knew it would not harm AL.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-forum/371832-polishing-my-d90s.html
Feel free to ask some specific questions as you dig into this. I'm happy to help. And don't let them give you any **** about your D90s. They are really great wheels and they are both light and historically accurate. A fine choice for a classic 964.
The Kean Strip KS-3 that Indy mentions sounds similar to the aircraft stripper that I used. I went with the aircraft stripper 'cause I knew it would not harm AL.
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#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hi MisterRisky, Thanks for the words of encouragement. I may consider the polishing instead of painting depending on how well that turns out.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#9
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Austin TX
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Go to Home Depot and get the "adhesive remover" that is designed for flooring. Let it cook a few minutes, scrape most everything off. This should take it down to the primer easily. However, when I was re-doing my cup II's, it also went down to the aluminum. Bad. Because then you have to primer, sand, clean, paint/sand/clean/paint/sand/clean, then clearcoats.
If I were you I would skip the strip and just do a good 100 grit wet sand to get throught the clear coat. Once you are in the paint, stop and go to something like a 600 grit, or something in between if you need to shape/smooth.
With a wheel that is sanded down to the paint, you can simply shoot a quick coat or two of the Wurth/Einszatt (sp?) silver, then your clear coats. Check out the DIY on it here and on pelican. You can do it all pretty cheap yourself.
If I were you I would skip the strip and just do a good 100 grit wet sand to get throught the clear coat. Once you are in the paint, stop and go to something like a 600 grit, or something in between if you need to shape/smooth.
With a wheel that is sanded down to the paint, you can simply shoot a quick coat or two of the Wurth/Einszatt (sp?) silver, then your clear coats. Check out the DIY on it here and on pelican. You can do it all pretty cheap yourself.