boze_man

DAMMIT GREG...what did u do to your RSA!!!???..now i have to worry bout mine...

i was rushing (not literally) to get the valves done so as to make the sep DE at TWS and finally meet up...i was hoping to get our cars to gether since we undertook this journey at the same time...

wha'happen'd???

anyways good luck with the rebuild and i hope to see ya trackside soon...

deep_uv

Boze, He drinks ya know......

I'm gonna be at TWS on the 15th/16th, you?

Steve

boze_man

don't we all......never enuf...

yes i am scheduled to be there...but i am in the process of the 'dreaded' valve adj, so will have to see if i can keep from blowing up the car...

look for #390, red 964

later

Tom W

With regard to the Carillo rods... I had them used for my engine. My understanding is that the rod bolts are the weak point, but I wanted as much safety as I could have so the damn thing did not go kaboom again.

deep_uv

Good luck, look forward to meeting you.
I'm #287, black Targa, 6 yr. daughter old running all around. You can't miss me.

Steve

Geoffrey

Unless you are reving the engine to 7500 and beyond, you do not need to cross drill the crankshaft. In fact, I'd rather not have the crankshaft cross drilled because you lose bearing support. Further, there are two ways to cross drill the crank, one involves machining a groove into the main journal, and the the other machines a groove into the bearing shell. The former will machine through the hardening of the crankshaft. It is overkill for an engine that will be kept near the stock RPM limit.

The Carrillo connecting rods are excellent rods and lighter than stock rods. However, again, for a largely stock engine, I would simply repair you stock rod set and install ARP bolts.

There are several ways to accomplish the 11.3:1 compression ratio and you'll want to know how much the heads are going to be machined. The wear spec is .020" and when cut .020" the sides of the heads are pretty weak, especially for a track car. I'd want to know exactly how they plan on arriving at 11.3:1.

TR6

I have no idea what happened yet. Still waiting on the autopsy report after the teardown. We suspect a bad rod bearing. I was looking forward to TWS also. Sorry I won't be there to hang with you dogs. I was hoping to take my wife's BMW M Coupe, but she said, 'you broke your toy, you're not taking mine to the track...' I liked it better when it was still my car...
Clearly not enough, man.
Looks like with Boze being there, at least you'll have another RSA to keep you on your toes out there.

eivind911

The 3.8 kit from FVD is not that bad - considering you get it all brand new - and you can probably sell of the old stuff
Mine costs 5000 usd - however what I didn't know that it requires quite a few external bits and pieces (remap++) - so yes, I guess it all ads up.....picking it up this weekend for first drive

TR6

Geoffrey, thanks for the input. I know nothing about all of this but am trying to learn from more experienced people such as yourself. I was told that the central journals of the crank don't get as much lubrication as the outer journals and that the cross drilling is to address that. What are your thoughts on that? I'll have to see which method they plan to use. We are assuming my crank needs repair anyway where the bad rod bearing sits. Good used cranks that have little wear appear to be made of unobtanium these days. We also plan to use the Jerry Woods rod bearings also along with ARP rod bolts.

In general, the car will spend a lot of time on the track (DE's and member days) so, while I don't plan to exceed the stock rev limit, a momentary mechanical overrev is always a possibility (God forbid). We're trying to engineer some overkill in terms of durability. In theory, I'm told it should have a decent chance of withstanding a momentary mechanical overrev without damage.

Regarding the Carillo rods, not that chasing extra horsepower is my goal, but I was told that a benefit of them is less reciprocating mass which adds a little extra power and revability since it takes less energy to spin them up. Also that the lighter rods will wear less on the rod bearings at sustained high rpms since they have less mass. But the question I'm struggling with is where to draw the line. I don't have an unlimited budget, but I also recognize that this may be a one time opportunity for me to be inside this engine (it better be, or I'll be divorced!).

Tom W

Greg: It sounds like you've almost answered the questions yourself, given Geoffrey's prior response.

If the engine will not have a raised rev limit, the Carillo rods and drilled crank seem unnecessary. My engine was built to rev to 8k but has the rev limiter set to 7400 as the car makes little power up there (class rules limit the induction system to stock and that limits the power to be obtained). My cranck was not drilled. When my engine was stripped down to look at the rod bearings (the stock) at about 25 hours, everything else was examined too and looked fine. When reassembled, it did get the new JWE bearings.

Why spend a bunch more money for fancy parts on what is essentially a DE/daily driver engine? While that last 1% of less of performance may make a difference in a race where you are running at the front, I would save my money for a DE car. Change the stock parts likely to break but don't worry about the other bits.

Indycam

The two filter set up .
A 993 motor .

MorganB1

Greg,

Sorry to hear about your engine. I know your post is about wish-list upgrades, but if it's of interest, there’s a recent classified posting with a ’93 RSA being parted-out. Possible donor engine or parts option if you stay close to stock? It’s in Sugar Land, so within a few hundred miles.

http://mall.rennlist.com/scripts/fea...uery=retrieval

Keep us all posted on what the teardown reveals!

Ruairidh

Good thread - marking for my future reference.

drane

Far as I know the Pauter rods have a good reputation and may save you some bucks. Good Luck c your project. Wayne

Shane D

Could you post your feelings on this kit when you get running? I checked the FVD web site and could find no reference to a 3.8 motor package?
What is your expected HP with this package?

Any info is appreciated!