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SoK Supercharger Install

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Old 07-25-2007, 02:44 AM
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KirkF
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Default SoK Supercharger Install

This thread will document me pulling apart my freshly rebuilt motor to install a SoK supercharger setup.

Goals:

1. Install Supercharger. (Bet you already guessed that)
2. Replace front axle shaft CV boots
3. Diagnose problems after last rebuild. (Running slightly rough. General feeling of 'not quite right')
4. Install front shock tower brace.
5. Replace plug wires.
6. Install aftermarket boost / a-f meter (brand undecided)
7. Replace lug nuts. (I know a minor item but its on the list)
8. Replace tail (necessary for the intercooler)
9. Remove DMF and replace with LWF. (DMF not capable of handling intended HP)
10. Replace transmission input shaft seal.
11. Replace engine compartment sound pad


As many of you know I documented my motor rebuild last year. Since that time I have put only about 1500 km on the car. I just got past the initial breakin and I was about to look at solving some of the remaining issues. So don't be too critical with what I find because although its been 9 months, I haven't really had a chance to dial anything in yet. Its still in the 'just started up after a rebuild phase'

I managed to pick up a used SoK supercharger kit out of Toronto. So any final tweaking of the rebuild was put on hold since the motor was going to come back out and get completely disassembled again.

So far I have pulled the motor out and got the exhaust off. To make a long story short this is about 6 weeks behind schedule. First I had to finish drywalling and painting the garage, then I had to move all the stuff out of my basement because we are having some work done there, and to top it off my garage floor is getting epoxy coated in late august so I have to minimize the number of items out there as well. And right now I am home 1 week a month because of work... So its a juggling act getting this done.

Motor Removal
------------------

I didnt take any pictures of the motor removal. There is already tons of documentation out there on the process. It was hot here (34C) and apparently I should have put some A/C in my garage... Anyways 5 hours and a bit of struggling and it was up on the engine stand.

-There was some oil contamination in the transmission bellhousing again. The RMS is dry and so is the oil breather, oil pressure sensor etc. I assume this is from transmission oil leaking past the input shaft. So thats why item #10 replace seal is on the list.

-Cylinder #4 was obviously the source of my motor issues. Had I not bought the supercharger the problem with this cylinder would have quickly become evident when I went to look at the plugs. It looks as new as when I installed it. I dont think it has fired once. Since there are two plugs and two plug wires, I have to assume this cylinder probaby saw no fuel. Bad injector?

-One of the exhaust studs was not seated deeply enough, which made removal of one of the round hex nuts irritating. (couldn't seat the allen key deep enough because the stud was near the top of the nut) As a reminder to myself and anyone else, make sure your exhaust studs are fully seated in the engine case.

-The freshly powder coated parts are already showing signs of rust coming through the power coating. This is particularly dissaspointing to me.

Tomorrow I will probe further into the motor. Hopefully I won't find any damage related to #4 cylinder not firing, or running without fuel.


---------------
Next steps
---------------
I have to send the pistons out for machining to 9:1 compression and have the a/c bracket and the motor bracket strengthened.
So after this initial dissassembly there will be a delay while that gets completed and all of the porsche parts get ordered.

Luckily the canadian dollar is almost on par with the US dollar (.96) so its a great time to be buying service and parts out of the USA.

Pictures
------------
Note the 4/5/6 cylinder bank picture. #4 is clean as a whistle. This is an air cooled porsche motor. It should look sooty.

Also the spark plug is #4 primary plug. It has obviously never fired. (Or never had any gas to fire)


Kirk
p.s. Please feel free to comment, add advice, etc in this thread.
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Old 07-25-2007, 09:04 AM
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Smokin
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Kirk... I'll be following this thread with great interest! You had some amazing pictures in your last thread... I'm sure this one will be the same. I'm also interested to see what the final HP output will be.
Old 07-25-2007, 10:55 AM
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Marc Shaw
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Good luck and we'll alll be reading with interest.

Where did you find the rust coming through the pc part - I ask as I was planning to pc my engine tin this winter but will use POR-15 instead if powder-coating is not up to the job.

Marc
Old 07-25-2007, 11:26 AM
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KirkF,

Subscribed on this one!!!

How as your car running with #4 not firing?
Old 07-25-2007, 12:49 PM
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Wow Kirk, going in again? Does it look like the plugs have been firing?

After I put mine together, it wouldn't idle very well. Found that one of my newly flowtested injectors was bad. It made a huge difference to replace that.

I'm taking mine in for the valve adjust next week, to sick of working on it to do that myself. That, and I want to get Jerry Woods give it a once over at his shop anyways, see what grade he gives me for the rebuild class I took from him.
Old 07-25-2007, 02:04 PM
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The plug looks like its brand new out of the box. I dont think the cylinder was firing at all.
The back of the exhaust valve is clean as a whistle.

The motor ran amazingly well considering it looks like #4 cylinder wasnt doing anything. It was a bit boggy at mid rpms and had a bit of a shudder at idle.

I suspect the problem is the injector. When I put on the plastic intake assembly, it came with a set of injectors as well, and these got mixed up with the injectors I removed from my engine. I think maybe I put a dead one in. When I get time I might try and test it to confirm it was the fault.

It won't be an issue after this project. All the injectors are being replaced. And I have new plug wires ready to go on as well.

As for the powder coating, I will take a close look at where it is having issues. I wonder if it wouldnt be wise to use a metal prep after the bead blasting and before the powder coating.
I used POR15 on my oil tank and I noticed pieces of it have chipped off. (largish chunks)


Kirk
Old 07-25-2007, 05:13 PM
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hey Kirk,
how much do you need to cut the pistons to achieve 9.0/1 CR?
Old 07-25-2007, 05:47 PM
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I'm not sure how much machining its going to require. I am going to take some before and after
pictures/measurements of the pistons to see what the machine shop does.

Kirk
Old 07-27-2007, 04:36 AM
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Ok I got a little more done tonight. I stripped the motor down to the bare block. Tomorrow I will have the pistons out.

It kinda hurt my feelings taking it apart...

It would have been nice to just fix the problem with cylinder #4 and see how it ran afterwards. Oh well.

Looking at the engine carrier I cant believe how weak looking it is.

I didnt notice any other issues with my rebuild during the disassembly. Metal pieces that were powder coated are showing some rust coming through. Anything alloy that was powder coated looks fine.

I'm anxious to see the internals to #4 cylinder. I hope nothing was damaged in there.


Kirk
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Old 07-27-2007, 11:59 AM
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Kirk,

Are you just removing the cylinder head and head housing assembly in one piece? If you're just going after the piston, I don't see any reason for disturbing the head and cam.
Old 07-27-2007, 01:01 PM
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Axl,

Thats a good point. I was thinking about that last night.
What do you remove in that case?
Just the cam sprockets, chains and then the nuts on the head bolts? Or do you have to remove the entire timing chain housing?

I am looking for the fastest and simplest way to get those pistons out and shipped. (I am only home for another 2 days and then away for three weeks for work again. And as usual there are too many other projects on the go!)

Kirk
Old 07-27-2007, 01:17 PM
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Kirk,

I did it before (on a 993) and it is pretty simple. I removed the cam sprockets, chains, chain ramps, AND the chain housing. I recalled loosening the rocker (but not removing the camshaft) to ease the pressure off the valves. It is a bit tricky to maneuver the chain housing out but it's possible. Then simply unbolt the head stud bolts and lifting the entire head and cylinder head assembly off. I was especially very careful in handing the entire assembly so not to break the delicate head seal.

I got the idea from a posting in Pelican where John Walker recommended the procedure.

---
anthony
Old 07-27-2007, 01:21 PM
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Kirk,

Here is the article. John said he didn't loosen the rockers. I did just to make sure there is no pressure on the heads.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...ght=head+chain
Old 07-28-2007, 02:40 AM
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I completed the disassembly tonight.

I removed all of the heads and cam tower as a single piece as Axl suggested. It worked out quite well, except it was a bit difficult seperating the heads from the cylinders. The cylinders wanted to come off with the heads.

Some of the pictures of cylinder 4 are amazing. You would swear the motor had never been started. The intake side was marked with INT in marker. Its still clearly visible. The valves look as if they have never been used.

My only explanation for this is a total lack of fuel in this cylinder. The injector must have been completely dead, but I would love some other expert opinions on this.

-I feel that with 2 plugs / 2 plug wires to that cylinder its unlikely to have been a spark issue.
-Also unburnt fuel should have washed off marker
-There wasnt a problem with detonation on that cylinder
-So either its the injector or the wiring harness thats at fault. ?

Luckily it doesnt look like anything involving that cylinder suffered any damage.



Kirk
p.s. since the wife was in the garage trying to figure out why the hell I was ripping my motor to pieces 'again' you get to see a mug shot of me.
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Last edited by KirkF; 07-28-2007 at 03:00 AM.
Old 07-28-2007, 02:48 AM
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Next I wrapped up the motor for storage until all the parts arrive for reassembly.

You guys are going to laugh at me but I had a roll of packing 'saran wrap', so I rolled it over the engine to seal it all up, and then I put an orange garbage bag over everything.

It should be good to keep the dust out.

Kirk
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