amr89c4

WOW! An event would be an understatement. Did you recall what was happening (noise or unusual behavior) or what the car was doing when this happened?

Azikara

Garrett - haven't read the entire post but I think I have what you need. I have the entire C4 master cylinder and slave (finally getting stuff out the part-out car). Let me know if you are still interested. Also have those other ones you were interested in.

kgorman

I installed my new 'rebuilt' slave cylinder, but now I must bleed the system in order to get my PDAS light to turn off (and the system to work).

What is the consensus, can I bleed w/o the hammer? or should I just take it to the shop?

mr.blonde

Moin,

My name is Marco I am from Germany and i have the same Problem. The slave cylinder is leaking. Porsche at all costs almost 500 €? The cylinder itself is perfectly fine. Only the seal is just a little worn after 20 years.

I asked a specialist just because the Glyd ring (the Blue Seal). Which must be well prepared. I still have no response if, necessary, at what price and what order quantity is.

Maybe someone has already made ​​and have lying around one. If not yet. When the produce it has anyone interested?

Greetings Marco

mr.blonde

Hi again,

I have the feedback from the manufacturer. they produce the ring for about 40 €

I test it and give a feedback.

Marco

peritus

Is hammer required to bleed PDAS or can it be done without?

Mr.Blond we are looking forward to your update.

Rocket Rob

The scantool cannot bleed the PDAS but the Hammer, PDT999 and Durametric tools can. I'm lucky, a fellow Rennlister lives nearby with a PDT999 and he let me use it to bleed my C4.

alexjc4

You can also bleed the PDAS by using the switch in the centre console. Lock the diffs with the switch, then open the bleed nipple until the pressure drops, close the nipple, unlock the diffs, lock the diffs, open the bleed nipple rinse and repeat. Takes a while and needs two people but it works. You can bleed the bomb and the solenoid by hand obiously too, just follow the Streather book guide.

FeralComprehension

1. I bled my locks with the difflock switch. Takes a while, but it's doable. Might be a lot easier with a speed-bleeder.

2. This place: O Ring Store has EPDM rings available singly in sizes which may work. The original measured size in this thread is 1.8x11mm; no details were given on how that size was arrived at, but if the old ring was measured then the results are suspect due to deformation.

3. This page: Seal Material Info says that EPDM should be good for brake fluid to 150C, so that seems like a good choice.

At this point I'm only an interested spectator; were I to be faced with a $750 bill for a new actuator I'd be on the seal issue in a hot minute.

mr.blonde

Hi,

today I got the ring.

this are the specifikation:

The outer one(green): PS08B 16,5-11, 6-2,2 PTFE/Bro
The inner one(O-Ring): EP-OR 10,82-1,78

I removed both.
Put the O-Ring with tape first.
The outer one I layed in Hot water. Then put it on.
Cleaned everything and Oiled it with DOT 4 and put all togehter.

I ve attached some Pics.

The price for both rings is 20€.

the green one is the old one.

Marco

FeralComprehension

Cool, Marco!

Can you tell us the supplier and anything more about the ring specifications?

Keep us posted; even though 20E is a lot of money for a couple plastic rings it's way better than 500E+.

Many thanks!

peritus

Well done, sir. +1 on where to get it.

mr.blonde

Hi,

the name of the company is trelleborg.

here is the link to representatives in us.

http://www.tss.trelleborg.com/de/de/.../americas.html


But I cant order direktly there. I looked for an reseller wich sell the rings separately.

My salesman told me with these specifications, I can always reorder the ring:

The outer one(green): PS08B 16,5-11, 6-2,2 PTFE/Bro
The inner one(O-Ring): EP-OR 10,82-1,78

marco

FeralComprehension

Thanks again, Marco. Please please please let us know how they hold up. Please?

NineMeister

We have the second car this year in the shop with leaks from both cylinders so this looks likely to be a on-going problem with the 964 Carrera 4. I've done some more research and have discovered that the split seals are called glyd rings, made from a low friction material and used to align the piston in the cylinder and to protect the bores of the cylinder from damage as the piston moves. The seal is a one-direction, low friction step seal which is designed for continuous use with brake fluid lubrication. Underneath the stepped seal is a Nitrile rubber O-ring used to generate compression between the seal and the cylinder bore.

Unfortunately the seals we need are not a stock item (similar parts are available from stock but are not the same specification) but can be remanufactured as a special part, subject to minimum order quantities and a 10 week lead time to have them made. The retail price for the set of 2 glyd rings, O-ring and seal is £25 (+VAT) per piston assembly which is a lot better than the £400 a cylinder that Porsche are charging. Unfortunately for my customer we have just bought two new cylinders because he needs his car back quickly, however if you are willing to wait 10 week I could have parts available from stock. Please let me know if anyone is interested in buying a set for their C4.