Need help with rear caliper removal
06-08-2007, 08:29 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
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Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia , Canada
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Once you have the 10mm breakerbar route sorted it is possible to get a 10mm ring down through on to the back of the lower caliper bolt . If the breaker wont do it alone then a hammer blow on the 10mm ring will help it along !
I have done that a few times.
Geoff
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KS400200 , the oldest 964 on Rennlist , unless you know differently !
I have done that a few times.
Geoff
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KS400200 , the oldest 964 on Rennlist , unless you know differently !
06-08-2007, 09:42 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Geoff,
I'm completely lost. 10mm ring??
I'm completely lost. 10mm ring??
06-08-2007, 12:06 PM
#18
Three Wheelin'
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Ricardo,
When you put the 10mm hex bar through the A arm and then into the caliper hex bolt head , take a look and you will see a small section of the 10 bar at the bolt head.
There is enough to be able to get a 10mm wrench head for the 10mm hex bar in there ! Because it is moving the force up to the socket head , a hammer blow on the wrench will have more force .
Hope that makes sense. Being doing this little trick for years , rather than twisting the 10mm bar .
Geoff
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
KS400200 , the oldest 964 on Rennlist , unless you know differently !
When you put the 10mm hex bar through the A arm and then into the caliper hex bolt head , take a look and you will see a small section of the 10 bar at the bolt head.
There is enough to be able to get a 10mm wrench head for the 10mm hex bar in there ! Because it is moving the force up to the socket head , a hammer blow on the wrench will have more force .
Hope that makes sense. Being doing this little trick for years , rather than twisting the 10mm bar .
Geoff
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
KS400200 , the oldest 964 on Rennlist , unless you know differently !
06-08-2007, 01:14 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Geoff,
I get it now Geoff, thanks for the tip. Moving the force up to the socket head is definitely the way to go. That's what made the upper bolt removal so much easier.
I sprayed the bolts with PB-blaster this morning, will let that soak a bit, and then proceed with my attack.
I get it now Geoff, thanks for the tip. Moving the force up to the socket head is definitely the way to go. That's what made the upper bolt removal so much easier.
I sprayed the bolts with PB-blaster this morning, will let that soak a bit, and then proceed with my attack.
06-08-2007, 05:03 PM
#20
Three Wheelin'
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Richardo ,
All the very best with that little job . I know it can be a real B*stard !
Take care with the solid brake lines. Pull the clip where the flexible and solid join . That allows the caliper to move around without replacing the solid !
All full of joys sometimes !
Geoff
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
KS400200 , the oldest 964 on Rennlist , unless you know differently !
All the very best with that little job . I know it can be a real B*stard !
Take care with the solid brake lines. Pull the clip where the flexible and solid join . That allows the caliper to move around without replacing the solid !
All full of joys sometimes !
Geoff
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
KS400200 , the oldest 964 on Rennlist , unless you know differently !
06-08-2007, 07:59 PM
#22
Nordschleife Master
"The thing is I'm a tall skinny guy so I am cursing my weak "Mr. Burns" arms strength. "
Use your foot / leg to do the work . Put your foot on the wrench .
Use your foot / leg to do the work . Put your foot on the wrench .
06-08-2007, 09:03 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yes, even with my foot/leg I was not successful today. I have however, successfully removed both broken springs on the left and right side of the car with some dental picks through the hand brake adjust hole in the rotor. The squealing should be gone now. I am going to put the wheels back on and go to my friends place who has a lift. There we can get the car up very high and use a large breaker bar to get the leverage we need. I strained my back a bit yesterday trying to pull on my ratchet.
I actually think its possible to install the springs without taking the rotors off through that access hole. You can line it up exactly with the spring install location.
When I do get the rotor bolts broken free and re-torque to 85Nm should I put anti-seize on the bolts? On my Audis the caliper bolts require blue loctite so I feel a bit hesitant to do that.
I actually think its possible to install the springs without taking the rotors off through that access hole. You can line it up exactly with the spring install location.
When I do get the rotor bolts broken free and re-torque to 85Nm should I put anti-seize on the bolts? On my Audis the caliper bolts require blue loctite so I feel a bit hesitant to do that.
06-09-2007, 06:20 AM
#24
Nordschleife Master
Here's what I did. Get a 10 mm hex key and cut it half way along it's length. This gives you a 60 mm straight piece and a shortened hex key as shown in the picture below.
Use the shortened hex key with a 10 mm socket and 130 mm extension bar to break the caliper bolt. Of course you're not going to break it with brute strength. The reason for the short extension bar is you have enough room to hit that sucker with a hammer
. Once the bolt has been loosened, use the straight hex piece with a 10 mm socket and ratchet wrench to take it out. 
Use the shortened hex key with a 10 mm socket and 130 mm extension bar to break the caliper bolt. Of course you're not going to break it with brute strength. The reason for the short extension bar is you have enough room to hit that sucker with a hammer
. Once the bolt has been loosened, use the straight hex piece with a 10 mm socket and ratchet wrench to take it out.
06-09-2007, 10:42 AM
#25
Rennlist Member
Is there anything wrong with using an impact wrench (turned down a bit) to break the bolts loose?
seems almost too simple/obvious. I know impact wrenches can successfully break things, too.
seems almost too simple/obvious. I know impact wrenches can successfully break things, too.
06-09-2007, 10:33 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Success!!!
Took the car to my friend's place who has a nice lift. Got the car up high, used my long 10mm Snap-on bit and with the ability to stand under the car, plant your feet and get your whole body into it, we broke both lower caliper bolts free. What a sound when they broke free. First time we thought we broke the tool or bit or something. Anyway, once broken loose, I re-torqued back to 85Nm which seems like nothing.
On Wednesday when my hand brake compression spring arrives it should be no problem for me to break all the caliper bolts free for the repair.
Thank you Rennlisters for your support and encouragement.
Took the car to my friend's place who has a nice lift. Got the car up high, used my long 10mm Snap-on bit and with the ability to stand under the car, plant your feet and get your whole body into it, we broke both lower caliper bolts free. What a sound when they broke free. First time we thought we broke the tool or bit or something. Anyway, once broken loose, I re-torqued back to 85Nm which seems like nothing.
On Wednesday when my hand brake compression spring arrives it should be no problem for me to break all the caliper bolts free for the repair.
Thank you Rennlisters for your support and encouragement.
