MassGuy

I am thinking about taking this project on. I am just starting my research and I am planning on undertaking this task in 2 to 3 weeks.

I would most definetly apreciate hearing your experience with this type of project.

Again your help is most valuable.

Eric Kessel

Make sure you have a few replacement feeler blade. Other than that, it's pretty straight forward. (I've only replaced the plugs with the engine out of the car, but supposedly the spark plug tool that comes in the car toolset is the easiest to use with the engine in the car for the top # 6 plug)

Oh yeah, don't overtighten the nuts for the covers...... 7ft/lbs......

springer3

I am buttoning up mine from a major service. Lessons? Read all the DIYs first. Saves a lot of time and you avoid mistakes. Go slow, and take a break if you get frustrated. Remember this is fun!

What is your previous experience? A 964 is a handfull for me, and I DIY'd for 26 years on a 911T, including engine and transmission overhauls. Plugs and valves are pretty much standard wrench turning except for the valve adjustment. That is critical and pretty easy to screw up. If you have not done it before, try to get someone to show you. The DIY instructions are good, but getting 0.1 mm gaps does take a little bit of feel.

It took two extensions and a universal joint to turn the corner and get a socket onto #6, the one behind the PS pump. The PS pump is gone if I ever get a lead on a manual rack.

I flushed the brakes and the clutch hydraulics. Found a weeping hose going to the clutch slave. I have had an intermittent hanging pedal, so I replaced the slave cylinder while I was in there.

Replace all the hood shocks. Again saved by the Rennlist DIY section. Easy when you know how, but I was really struggling when I finally did the search. 20 minutes later it was done.

Switched to an Optima battery. Nice upgrade, but had to modify the positive terminal. Negative terminal is a direct fit.

Replace the fuel filter and air filter if it has been more than 15,000 miles.

While I had the exhaust off, I swapped the primary muffler for a bypass pipe. Still have not driven it. Dropped an allen wrench behind the crank pulley, and still trying to figure out how to fish it out. Read above about taking a break if you get frustrated. I am on a break now.

I bought all the parts from Pelican. Service was great, and all parts were OEM quality. Usual disclaimers, Vertex is also good, but they have shipped me some cheap parts before.

whatintarnation

I, too plan to take on the valve adjust on my 3.6L. Has anyone tried the Back Method?

swmic

Brian,

I just finished adjusting my valves and changing plugs. It was my first time on a 911. I have to say that it's not that bad at all. I just took my time. I had no problem getting to the #6 plug either. I don't know what all the fuse is about getting to it. I also used the cam lobe method of adjusting the valves. There is a lot written on it in the archives. I just turned the motor over by hand and adjusted one side at a time making sure the rocker was not on a lobe. I found all my valves were quite loose. It took a little time to get the feel of the valve clearance settings using the cam lobe method. The 0.025" feeler gage is very thin, but I managed not to destroy it. The engine sounds much better now and feels more responsive. Now all I have to do is replace the spark plug wire clips on the valve covers. Anyone have a source for them?

The real pain was getting the starter out! The solenoid was acting up so I decided to change the starter since I was in there. Getting the top starter bolt out was bad, but getting the starter out of the car was worse. With the bolts removed, I could not position the starter in a way what would allow enough room for the starter shaft to clear the bell housing. I lowered the motor and still was about 3 or 4 mm shy of getting it out. I even thought about grinding a small section of the bell housing to make room. Finally after a bunch of wrangling, it cleared. Then I had to put the new one in. It was the same hassle but in reverse. Man, I don't want to do that job again!

So if you have the confidence and the time to do it, I would say go for it!!

Shawn

JasonAndreas

See THIS thread before using the backside method on a 964. At the very least another 964 owner needs to check the backside method with a dial indicator before this method gets wide use.

swmic

If your uncomfortable with adjusting the valves using the backside method, all you have to do is verify the gap at the conventional location of the valve stem and rocker to make sure it correct. If you verify it on one valve, the rest should be the same.

CraigC

Im still a little confused. I have all the tuneup parts, Plugs, Dizzy caps, filters, valve cover gaskets, etc. in my garage that I bought in anticipation of doing my first 964 valve adjust. It has been a little over 12,000 miles, since the last major tuneup. The car runs strong and is quiet as far as I can tell. Ive seen recommended intervals ranging from 12,000 to 24,000 miles, with the 24,000 for US cars that are not tracked (mine). The car is getting a fresh change of Mobil 1 every 4,000 miles. I live 5 hours from the nearest Porshe service so I dont want to pull it apart and screw up something that I cant correct. What do you think, am I safe to go the full 24,000 miles as long as the car is running strong?

JasonAndreas

The North American valve adjustment interval was set by PCNA to 15,000 miles. I once went as long as ~20K and they were all loose and making a ton of racket. My mechanic at the time (1997ish) told me never to do that again and I haven't.

The hardest part of doing your first valve adjustment is working up the nerve to do it, that's it. Remember to double-check that the cylinder you're working on has both valves closed and you won't have any problems. And if you're not familiar with using a feeler gauge you can buy a dial indicator and use it to check your work.

ilko

Don Istook once told me that if the valves aren't making noise to leave them alone. He said that the 3.6 motor is so good that valves don't have to be adjusted as often as the older motors and that I could go and have them checked every 30K miles. I probably won't go that far, but an experienced mechanic can let you know if there is noise from the engine. If there is no noise I won't touch them.

springer3

I have seen a blue (from overheating) cam lobe and rocker arm. I guessed lubrication failure, but it was valve clearance getting too close. The lash went to zero, and the friction overheated the sliding contact. This was a supercharged 964 engine, and I suspect the valve was badly burned before this happened. Noise will not warn you that valve clearance is dangerously low.

SimonExtreme

Every time I have my valves adjusted I am stunned by how much quieter the car runs! One person's quiet is another person's noisy! Do it as per the correct intervals and you cannot go wrong. Feeler guages aren't subjective.

CraigC

Thanks for the replies. I guess I have a few thousand additional miles to work up the courage to do my first 911 valve adjust.

springer3

Cross-check with a dial indicator, and you will find feeler gages are quite subjective until you get the proper "feel" for it. Good news is that most beginners set the lash too wide, and that does little harm other than some extra tappet noise.