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Old 04-13-2007, 10:21 AM
  #16  
Cupcar
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Originally Posted by Oscar
I had a b&M short shift on my 964 but replaced it with the 993 RS shift w/ the universal joint from Schatz Mortorsports. There seems to be less "mushiness" with the Ujoint than with the original bushings. At least that's how I am justifying the expense. When I had mine installed, my mechanic cut a nice rectangle hole in the bottom of the tray and then welded new bubble piece to accommodate the shifter. It's a real nice piece of work. I've seen other people just pound out a big dent in the tray. Serves the same purpose. I'll post a pic when I can next get under the car.

I am sorry to say, your shifter is installed wrong. The shifter handle would have been closer to you, and the dent in the pan would not have been necessary, if the oval pivot shaft bushing were flipped, so the pivot shaft is in the upper part of the oval rather than the lower one, like it is supposed to be. See picture below, the dirty oily hole is where the shaft is supposed to be, it is normally in the lower hole in a non-RS shifter equipped car.

Old 04-13-2007, 11:04 AM
  #17  
garrett376
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Originally Posted by Cupcar
Picture below shows the 993 RS rod on top with the 964 RS rod below. Arrow points to wear point in my old RS rod, installing the 993 RS part eliminated the slop this wear created. BTW the 964 part goes back to the 356 Porsche!!!
The C4 has the 993RS style shift coupling...
Old 04-13-2007, 11:47 AM
  #18  
1990-964
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Oscar,

Cupcar hit the nail on the head. My guess is that your car is a 1990 or that your mechanic installed the shifter incorrectly. As Cupcar said the correct method is to flip or rotate the bushing that holds the tube that supports the shift lever. This is a mistake that many people make. This moves the whole assembly up in the box like the factory intended. Having any part of the linkage hang down like that is asking for trouble. Those that say that there is no problem cutting a hole dimpling the cover or whatever do not have a full grasp of how the unit is really supposed to be installed. The best thing for you to do now is to redo your installation, flip the bushing and then you will be in good shape. That will keep you or the car from getting hurt. If you are still in doubt try talking to Schatz Motorsport, Jerry Woods, or PCA Tech editor Joel Reiser. I did before doing my shifter and all three of them and others helped me from going down the wrong road. Good Luck.
Old 04-13-2007, 12:15 PM
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Cupcar
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The picture I showed is of the factory installation in my USA Cup, so I KNOW that is how Porsche does it!!!
Old 11-21-2007, 08:02 PM
  #20  
Fast4525
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This is a great thread with lots of good info. I am in need of a short-throw shift kit for my '90 C2 and have a few questions.

The 90' model cars were built before the factory developed a short shifter for these cars. A mod needs to be done in the box area where the assembly mounts so that the bottom of the linkage will not contact the metal cover under the car. The bushing that holds the support rod for the lever is round in our year. The 91" and on cars have an oval bushing in that location. When a short shifter is installed in a C2 the bushing is rotated so that the hole for the support rod is up. This raises the assembly so that all of it fits inside the box. I did this upgrade to my car and am using the factory short shifter which by the way is the one the B&M is patterned after.
Are you saying that some of the sheetmetal needs to be bent or cut away to make the short shifter work? Does anyone happen to have a pic of this mod?

The advantages of the RS shifter are:
A 20 mm shorter shift distance between each gear pair (like shift 1 to 2 gear).
The shift lever is placed 28 mm higher and 10 mm laterally toward the driver, so it is easier to reach quickly

The disadvantage of the RS shifter is an 18% greater force requirement to perform a shift.
Are the Porsche short shifter and the RS shifter two different parts? I like the RS version because it locates the shifter over 1" higher than stock! Does anyone have a part # or price for the RS part?

The real trick is to fit the 993 RS rod with the universal joint rather than the bushes -- AND --- Picture below shows the 993 RS rod on top with the 964 RS rod below. Arrow points to wear point in my old RS rod, installing the 993 RS part eliminated the slop this wear created. BTW the 964 part goes back to the 356 Porsche!!!
This also looks like a very nice upgrade. Are any additional parts or changes required for installation in a '90 C2? Does anyone have a part # or price for this part?
Old 11-21-2007, 08:48 PM
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Fast4525,

Yes I am saying that the holes that the two support tube bushings in 1990 car need to be opened up to match the later style bushings. It can be done with a file or with a die grinder/Dremel, either way be very careful and above all TAKE YOUR TIME. The owner of Schatz Motorsports was the first one to clue me in on this as he had done it to his own car. I did mine last July and after almost a year and a half it is working just fine. Don't make the mistake of dimpling/cutting your pan. Imagine what might happen if you were to hit a speed bump with the linkage and have the lever possibly slam back into your arm. NOT GOOD!

Post your results and Good Luck
Old 11-22-2007, 01:38 AM
  #22  
Cupcar
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Originally Posted by Fast4525
Are the Porsche short shifter and the RS shifter two different parts? I like the RS version because it locates the shifter over 1" higher than stock! Does anyone have a part # or price for the RS part?

This also looks like a very nice upgrade. Are any additional parts or changes required for installation in a '90 C2? Does anyone have a part # or price for this part?
The RS' normal shifter is what people call a "short shifter" for the other cars. The part numbers are:

Lever 964.424.015.08
Fork below lever 964.424.017.01

The shift rod with the metal to metal universal joint is actually a 993 RS part (the shifter and fork are same as 964 RS) is part number 964.424.020.35

I bought my shift rod from Schatz Motorsport mentioned by others above, the parts are listed here, the 3 piece kit has the rod and the shifter: http://www.schatzmotorsport.com/Merc...ct_Code=150SKX
Old 11-22-2007, 12:33 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Cupcar
The RS' normal shifter is what people call a "short shifter" for the other cars. The part numbers are:

Lever 964.424.015.08
Fork below lever 964.424.017.01

The shift rod with the metal to metal universal joint is actually a 993 RS part (the shifter and fork are same as 964 RS) is part number 964.424.020.35

I bought my shift rod from Schatz Motorsport mentioned by others above, the parts are listed here, the 3 piece kit has the rod and the shifter: http://www.schatzmotorsport.com/Merc...ct_Code=150SKX
Mr Cupcar,

You seem to be the resident short shifter expert Can you confirm that the lever actually raises the shift **** height by 28mm?

Even though Schatz lists the RS short shifter as fitting '90> I think that I will have to do the previously mentioned sheetmetal mods.

The price difference between the RS shifter and the 993 version with the rod/linkage assembly is $400 -- a huge percentage more! How much better is the 993 version?

Thanks

Last edited by Fast4525; 11-22-2007 at 12:34 PM. Reason: 1
Old 11-22-2007, 01:03 PM
  #24  
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Page 3-8 of Porsche's service and training book Service Information Technik '92 911 Carrera RS has a comparison table that states the new lever design raises the lever 28 mm and moves it 10 mm closer to the driver as well as shortening the travel by 20 mm total overall (plus & minus 52 mm rather than plus & minus 62 mm).

Email Mike Schatz directly and he will tell you about the mods for your '90 shifter.

A picture I posted earlier shows the wear on my stock coupling. I noted a real decrease in sloppiness with the 993 rod. What you would get depends on how worn your original components are. I suspect your '90 has similar wear or greater to the photo. The 993 rod is not nearly as prone to wear, so the sloppiness fix is permanent.

As for whether it is worth it depends on how expensive your taste in women, homes, watches, cameras, computers, travel, home theater, etc., is and where you want to spend your money...I thought it was worth it.
Old 11-22-2007, 01:07 PM
  #25  
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FWIW and IMHO having driven my RSAmerica with the stock shifter and the Euro Cup with the shifter/linkages discussed, the RS/Cup shifter position and feel is much better. A highly recommended mod.
Old 11-22-2007, 01:40 PM
  #26  
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I took a quick look at the the link to Schatz Motorsport and find it highly suspect about the 90' fitment with the asterick saying to dimple the tunnel cover. As I had said previously it was Mr. Schatz himself who told me in a phone conversation not to do this and what had to be done in the box area to accomodate the late style oval bushing. He went on to say that he had done this to his own personal car and that it was not that difficult. I'm finding it hard to see why he/they would list the wrong way to do this on their website. Dimpling/cutting or other mods to the tunnel is NOT the correct way to accomplish this installation(was not always listed there that way). The factory did not do this but rather raised the whole assembly via the oval support tube bushings up in the box. Follow what the factory did and you will be happy that you did it right.
Old 11-22-2007, 03:00 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 1990-964
The factory did not do this but rather raised the whole assembly via the oval support tube bushings up in the box. Follow what the factory did and you will be happy that you did it right.
Good advice. How difficult and expensive is the factory update route? Do you know what parts #s are required to do it the right way?

Thanks
Old 11-22-2007, 07:01 PM
  #28  
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To do this right only requires two new oval bushings, compared to the ones that you have in there now that are round. Everything else is the same. Sorry but don't know the part numbers. As for cost, I think both bushings were a dollar or two. Incidental cost really and worth 100 times that for the peace of mind that you did it right.
Old 11-23-2007, 06:02 AM
  #29  
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I've done this mod and it's really money well spent!
Old 11-23-2007, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 1990-964
To do this right only requires two new oval bushings, compared to the ones that you have in there now that are round. Everything else is the same. Sorry but don't know the part numbers. As for cost, I think both bushings were a dollar or two. Incidental cost really and worth 100 times that for the peace of mind that you did it right.
Model Year 1992 and on use bushing part number 964.424.028.00.

From the parts book listings, the same bushing is used for '90 and '91 cars, and then it is changed from 1992 on so presumably this means for RS shifter installation the '91 C2 needs to change to an oval bushing as well.


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