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Old 04-02-2007 | 08:48 PM
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Default Scantool Software & Interface from ecufix.com

I have an interface from www.ecufix.com and the scantool software and cannot get it to communicate. Can anyone assist?
I know my notebook is using COM 1 RS232 (no USB). My port settings are 9600, 8, none, 1 none. I see the echo, etc. LED's are gone as per the 964 and I am on the outside jumper, but nothing is happening. I can activate the adaptation button, but have not done so. I have tried the each of the ECU's AirCon, ABS, Montronic, etc. I have tested the cables for straight through. Nothing Nothing Nothing. I am stumped.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Old 04-02-2007 | 09:25 PM
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I assume you have the ignition on or the car running. Attached are the plug in ports. I had to try 2 different 9 pin cables to get one to work. You might try that if you have another one.
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Old 04-02-2007 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jimq
...I had to try 2 different 9 pin cables to get one to work. You might try that if you have another one.
This is a problem that some people have. I had several cables and most were not wired straight through. (Which is what you need.) I ended up buying my own ends at Radio Shack and making my own cables.
Old 04-02-2007 | 11:54 PM
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Post edited...

The connector seems to be installed upside down in my car. Be sure to check the little numbers printed (molded) next to each connector pin in the car.

Below is the diagram I have used. This image is from Laurence Gibbs with a the lines/text darkened and an extraneous info removed. Here are the pin numbers we use:

P10-----GND
P7-------L line
P8-------K line
P12-----+12V (always hot)

(note P15 deleted, and drawing edited/updated to keep information correct, thanks Laurence Gibbs!)


Last edited by Toddimus; 04-05-2007 at 02:48 AM. Reason: fix diagram/text after input from it's author, Laurence G
Old 04-03-2007 | 03:47 AM
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Default Correct Pin Layout

Unfortunately the ECUFIX circuit does seem to have a problem connecting. Most people have cut the two LED's or resistor R8 with success.

You definately need to make sure youre using a straight through serial cable and check you have the correct software. Make sure youre connecting to the right pins in the socket and if it still does not work then think about cutting the LED's.

Pin Layout
1. Airbag Gong Relay
2. Unused
3. Unused
4. Unused
5. OBC On/Off
6. Unused
7. L
8. K
9. Unused
10. Ground
11. Unused
12. Battery +VE
13. Ignition Power
14. Pin 6 of the DME, Rev Counter
15. Pin 22 of the DME, Check Engine Control On DME
16. Unused
17. Unused
18. Unused
19. Pin 21 of the DME, Knocking

I use pins 7, 8 ,10 and 13.
Hope this helps
Old 04-03-2007 | 08:45 AM
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Todd... Something doesn't look right with the drawing you posted. Jim's is correct... At least that is the way it looks in my car.
Old 04-03-2007 | 12:30 PM
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Todd's drawing is correct - I've got the same printout in my glovebox for quick ref. Only thing is it's turned 90 deg to the left. So pins 10-12 are actually across the top of the connector (which then makes sense when you look at Jim's picture!)
one note for C4's, to connect to the PDAS I've found the following:
1. connect your +12V line to pin 12
2. ignition in run position but engine not started.
For whatever reason if my engine is running it won't connect to the PDAS. LIkewise, it won't connect if I put my +12V line into position 13 either (maybe related to engine running?)
Old 04-03-2007 | 06:19 PM
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Thanks all of you that replied. I found the problem
Old 04-03-2007 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 92C2Targa#119
Thanks all of you that replied. I found the problem
what was it??
Old 04-03-2007 | 07:09 PM
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?????
Old 04-03-2007 | 10:52 PM
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Just for reference, my connector is rotated 180 degrees from the drawing I posted. I assume the the four mounting screws are are in a symmetric square, so it could be mounted 4 different ways. Conveniently, I can always remember which is ground, because it is closest to the ground (floor).
Old 04-04-2007 | 11:06 AM
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While you can go by the drawing and the orientation of the plastic polarizing keys on the connector, it is much better to go by the actual numbers molded into the connector body.

.. Gregg
Old 04-04-2007 | 02:18 PM
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It was a bad connection at the connector (between the DB9F cable & the interface board).

Works great now
Old 04-05-2007 | 02:06 AM
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The picture of the amp socket was one i posted up. The faint pen markings are mine. if you use this for reference then IGNORE pin 15 as being switched ign it's NOT!!! I did put this in the original thread. I should have scrubbed out the offending pen mark.
Old 04-05-2007 | 02:37 AM
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I updated the drawing and edited my earlier post to reflect Laurence's input. Sorry I didn't give you credit when I first posted it. I just didn't recall who had first posted it. I copied the image long ago, and kept it on my hard drive. Heck, I even made a sticker with this image that I put on the outside of the project box in which my interface PCB lives.

Thanks again Laurence Gibbs for all of your efforts, as well as Gregg K and everybody who helped with the software and DIY interface.

Cheers,
Todd


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