stevepaa

I just ordered that line for my car also. $265 from a Porsche dealer. Most dealers wanted $400.
I ordered the ones from thermostat to cooler, also. They are leaking now.


I used real nice swivels to do those pesky nuts.

JasonAndreas

Thin-walled and low profile 13mm flex head socket, there is not enough room (or I didn't have enough room) between the heat exchangers and the cylinder head to fit a wobble extension with a plain 13mm socket.

Removing the heat exchangers is one of those jobs were you absolutely have to buy the correct proper fitting tools, there is no room to mess around. If you screw up and round off a nut or even worse a barrel nut then you're in for a world of hurt.

Indycam

How much does it leak ?

Vince pavlicek

Mine leak is just a drop or two a day. But it went from zero oil anywhere to this plus a similar small leak around the oil tank late in the summer. Unfortunately, I doubt it will go back to zero drips. I bought this car because it had zero leaks and as long as I can do the work, I'm gonna keep it that way.
Thanks for the swivel socket advice. A quick trip to Sears Hardware and the nuts came off cleanly.
Next I'll pull the oil tank looking for that problem and make a list of parts to order for what I find and include the header gaskets and nuts.
Everybody needs a hobby, and I smile all the time when I'm driving mine.
One of these days I'll take a new signature picture.
vince

NineMeister

The line that you are replacing is a common one to leak, however the pipe is often made incorrectly which will cause a leak at the fitting on the block. I have seen this fault on many occasions and have had to remedy new pipes before fitting so please be aware of a possible issue.

The problem is that the clamp nut on the pipe is sometimes manufactured too deep, so that it bottoms out on the hex of the nipple (the double-threaded part in the block) before the conical seal area of the pipe is fully compressed into the taper of the nipple. Once the pipe is trial fitted, nip up the nut onto the nipple and test for any movement or rotation of the pipe, if there is any movement whatsoever the solution is to remove the pipe and shorten the clamp nut by filing material from the face of the nut until there is slight clearance when the nut is fully tight. This is pretty obvious if you have the parts in front of you.

Good luck with the rest of the work.

greenjt

Colin - I was once told that teflon tape might be another solution. Stupid or valid idea? Thnx.

parsecnc4

I don't have any experience in replacing the oil line, but I would be concerned with potential debris from the teflon tape to accidentally flow into the line and travel to the engine. Also, I wonder what is the longevity and heat range of the teflon tape in such usage.

Vince pavlicek

Interesting problem. Since the car is 95% original, I'd be surprised if this pipe was ever moved. But I will definitely fit it when the car is going back together. Got most stuff off the oil tank but can't lift it enough to get it out yet. I think the breather pipe at the top is the problem.

JasonAndreas

The oil line has a compression fitting so the threads aren't responsible for the sealing and teflon tape won't help. It might actually cause a leak?

greenjt

Jason - Why am i not surprised you have a picture of that... ;-). Thanks for the 411.

So since i get a drip after each drive from this fitting, what would you do?
1. try snugging down the nut over the compression to hopefully stop the leak; or
2. Since i would have the heat exchanger off anyway, replace the fitting that connects the oil pipe to the case.

#2 would reduce the cance of needing to get back in there, but i think would also require draining the oil. Thoughts?

Also, could the leak be coming from the other side - junction between the fitting and the case?

Colin 90 C2

mine actually leaked from the fitting in the case. It was about a 1/16th of a turn loose. Just needed snugging up. You will have to loosen the hose fitting before snugging up the case fitting.