964 good for high miles?
12-25-2006, 04:13 PM
#1
7th Gear
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964 good for high miles?
Hi there, I'm currently looking to change my 1966 912 and get the 964 I've always dreamed of.
A black 1990 C4 has come up for sale locally. I've not seen the car yet (only pictures) but... (and I think this is a big but), the car has covered 165,000 miles! Am I right begin wary of a car that has covered this much? What major things should I check for being replaced? Or should I just give it a body swerve?
The price of the car reflects the mileage as the owner wants a few thousand less than a similar model with sensible miles. I would be greatful of any advice or let me know how you have got on with a similar model.
Thanks - Jason
Merry Christmas All!
A black 1990 C4 has come up for sale locally. I've not seen the car yet (only pictures) but... (and I think this is a big but), the car has covered 165,000 miles! Am I right begin wary of a car that has covered this much? What major things should I check for being replaced? Or should I just give it a body swerve?
The price of the car reflects the mileage as the owner wants a few thousand less than a similar model with sensible miles. I would be greatful of any advice or let me know how you have got on with a similar model.
Thanks - Jason
Merry Christmas All!
12-25-2006, 04:50 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
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Value would depend on the engine condition. If a rebuild seems near...I think the value should reflect that. A rebuild is likely near $10K USD.
That said, my car has 114K on the odo and runs very well. Others who have driven it always ask what I've done to the motor as they seem to think it is not stock. Mine pulls very hard, uses about 1 quart per oil change at 3,000 mile intervals and doesn't smoke or leak.
I wouldn't shy away if you can buy it right. In some ways, I'd like to pick up a high milage model that does need a rebuild. I'd like the challenge and I would like some excuses for adding higher profile cams, LW flywheel, clutch, etc.
That said, my car has 114K on the odo and runs very well. Others who have driven it always ask what I've done to the motor as they seem to think it is not stock. Mine pulls very hard, uses about 1 quart per oil change at 3,000 mile intervals and doesn't smoke or leak.
I wouldn't shy away if you can buy it right. In some ways, I'd like to pick up a high milage model that does need a rebuild. I'd like the challenge and I would like some excuses for adding higher profile cams, LW flywheel, clutch, etc.
12-26-2006, 06:46 AM
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Value reflects condition - I paid £8000 for my 89 C4 with 167,000 miles on the clock and I've rebuilt it from the ground up. You can pay anything from 12 - 16 and still end up laying out a small fortune. My take on it was that I paid rubbish money and got a rubbish car, but one that was structurally sound. Since I've been right through the car, I know it's OK - I've got all the bills but I've never added them up to see what I've spent in total - my wife might see! Then again, it's still cheaper than running her horse, and a man needs a hobby..
12-26-2006, 08:36 AM
#5
I would make sure you get a leakdown test too. Personally would not invest any money in PPI until you had a very detailed service history that was well above the norm, and you knew how and where the car was driven. Sure these cars can last a long time, but when something breaks it is not inexpensive.
12-26-2006, 11:56 AM
#6
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Mine has about the same mileage and is going strong. I do have the annoying oil drips, but the car runs great and dyno'd near stock hp.
As others have said... check out the condition first and then decide on a PPI. The few hundred spent on a PPI might save thousands in the long run. You ma yrequest the seller to pay for half.
Good luck on your search and be patient. It is better to wait to get a good car than to impulse buy one and have problems.
As others have said... check out the condition first and then decide on a PPI. The few hundred spent on a PPI might save thousands in the long run. You ma yrequest the seller to pay for half.
Good luck on your search and be patient. It is better to wait to get a good car than to impulse buy one and have problems.
12-26-2006, 02:38 PM
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Mine is at the 166k mile point. Runs great, I drive it everyday. I have more concerns about the non-engine items than I do the engine. I just made the trip from Dallas to Houston cruising pretty steady at 3600rpm with narry a problem for the better part of 4hrs. I think the pace was brisk but my speedo is in-op (just one broken non-engine item...); however it sang wonderfully the whole way. Not too bad on the petrol either...
My car had good comp and marginal leakdown numbers when I bought her. I took a gamble based on the miles driven per year to think she just needed a serious romp to clean her out. Turned out to be true. Since then I've done clutch & then had to pay someone to go back in to replace the main fuel lines & pump right after I relocated to the south. It was a $3500 repair bill but included valve check (no adjustments needed after 20k miles, all still in spec!!) as well as a re-seal. Now my oil consumption is right where it should be and the drips are minimal.
Trust your gut, get the PPI and make an informed decision. Replacement used engines are well under $10k, some under $5k. If you buy a high-miles unit just reconsile yourself to have a daily driver and whomp on the thing. It's always going to be looked at as non-normal usage by the buyers who want low miles and they'll balk. I however subscribe to the drive it everyday and less things go wrong theory.
My car had good comp and marginal leakdown numbers when I bought her. I took a gamble based on the miles driven per year to think she just needed a serious romp to clean her out. Turned out to be true. Since then I've done clutch & then had to pay someone to go back in to replace the main fuel lines & pump right after I relocated to the south. It was a $3500 repair bill but included valve check (no adjustments needed after 20k miles, all still in spec!!) as well as a re-seal. Now my oil consumption is right where it should be and the drips are minimal.
Trust your gut, get the PPI and make an informed decision. Replacement used engines are well under $10k, some under $5k. If you buy a high-miles unit just reconsile yourself to have a daily driver and whomp on the thing. It's always going to be looked at as non-normal usage by the buyers who want low miles and they'll balk. I however subscribe to the drive it everyday and less things go wrong theory.
