Seized lug nut
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Here I go with a common Porsche problem. I have a SIEZED ALLOY (ALUM) LUG Nut. I suspect its caused by the disimilar materials (alum on steel). Nonetheless, this situation is on my 93 RSA, left front Turbo cup wheel. All nuts came off easily except for the last one. So anticipating the challenge I sprayed with liguid wrench a number of times an let it soak for a week. Then I went back to it with the 19mm wrench, no go. The I applied a "cheater bar" to the wrench and then felt a little budge... too late it sheared the nut in half! Damit!
Well I asking for some garage tips on attempting to remove this remaining half nut. I have considered drilling the nut off (which I have done before on my 84 911 and vowed to only to use steel nuts in the future. My RSA is "new" and I was preparing to store it for the winter). Drilling is my last consideration, any ideas how to get this nut off. Has anyone used one of those "hammer on" emergency nut removers?
Frustrated!
Thanks
Rob
Well I asking for some garage tips on attempting to remove this remaining half nut. I have considered drilling the nut off (which I have done before on my 84 911 and vowed to only to use steel nuts in the future. My RSA is "new" and I was preparing to store it for the winter). Drilling is my last consideration, any ideas how to get this nut off. Has anyone used one of those "hammer on" emergency nut removers?
Frustrated!
Thanks
Rob
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Robert... I have had friends use deep well sockets that are a size smaller, hammered on top of the nut, to remove what remains. I'm not sure what else you could do. Were the lug nuts torqued properly or were they tightened by some tire shop using an impact driver?
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I've had pretty good luck with Sears damaged nut tools. Not sure if it would fit inside the wheel opening. I was able to remove the differential fill plug on my Toyota truck that had rounded of with a six point socket. Yes, it was that tight. I was actually surprised when it came loose.
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Robert,
I recently was replacing a clutch in a 93 Geo Prizm and mangled two bolt heads (14mm in size). I then purchased a set of Sears "Boltout" sockets. They worked really well (no affiliation) with my impact wrench. You may want to give them a try. Their largest set has a 19mm size socket.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
I recently was replacing a clutch in a 93 Geo Prizm and mangled two bolt heads (14mm in size). I then purchased a set of Sears "Boltout" sockets. They worked really well (no affiliation) with my impact wrench. You may want to give them a try. Their largest set has a 19mm size socket.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
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Those are the ones. Sorry I didn't have the correct name, but I would give them a try. You can also buy half sets. That is , four of five of a smaller size and four or five of larger sizes. Might save a few bucks if you don't anticipate needing them.
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Originally Posted by Michael Delaney
Not sure if it would fit inside the wheel opening
![](https://members.rennlist.com/jandreas/SeatBeltBolt+Extractor.jpg)
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Update....
I purchased the Sears "boltout" kit, used a size#13 (19mm) on the siezed lug nut. Now remmmber I only have 1/2 of the nut remaining (crossectional) since it sheared in half when I initially attempted to remove it.
Well since I had sheared it in half that of course incates that the alloy is not all that hard. So when I put the boltout on the nut and applied some torque it just "bit into" and chewed up the remaining half.
It's now impossible to get anything on the remains to apply torque. Therefor I had to get 'DENTAL"! Got out some small drills and the Dremel tool with grinding bits. After about 4 hours and 2 weekends I was able to remove the remaining nut (drill/cut/grind away) with out any significant damage to the wheel or stud. As I mentioned earlier, its all steel nuts from this point on and of course, proper torquing.
Rob
I purchased the Sears "boltout" kit, used a size#13 (19mm) on the siezed lug nut. Now remmmber I only have 1/2 of the nut remaining (crossectional) since it sheared in half when I initially attempted to remove it.
Well since I had sheared it in half that of course incates that the alloy is not all that hard. So when I put the boltout on the nut and applied some torque it just "bit into" and chewed up the remaining half.
It's now impossible to get anything on the remains to apply torque. Therefor I had to get 'DENTAL"! Got out some small drills and the Dremel tool with grinding bits. After about 4 hours and 2 weekends I was able to remove the remaining nut (drill/cut/grind away) with out any significant damage to the wheel or stud. As I mentioned earlier, its all steel nuts from this point on and of course, proper torquing.
Rob
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Glad to hear you got the broken nut out. I purchased my '93 with two broken lug nuts. Porsche actually has a "preferred method" for removal. At least that is what my local Porsche dealer called it.
I purchased a 17mm hole saw from Starrett and put it in my hand drill. It slid neatly over the end of the stud and acted as a great guide. Taking my time, this method easily cut through the remaining piece of the aluminum nut. Since the nut is in tension, it easily "popped" when I completed the cut through it. Absolutely no damage to the wheel.
But anyway, glad to hear of your success.
Steve
I purchased a 17mm hole saw from Starrett and put it in my hand drill. It slid neatly over the end of the stud and acted as a great guide. Taking my time, this method easily cut through the remaining piece of the aluminum nut. Since the nut is in tension, it easily "popped" when I completed the cut through it. Absolutely no damage to the wheel.
But anyway, glad to hear of your success.
Steve
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The 17mm hole saw way is the way I would deal with any future broken nuts on mine after the last one cost me £150 to sort. (Cause this was after I went at it like a maniac with the black and decker and put a hole in almost everything apart from the nut!!!!)
Rob
Rob
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+1
Originally Posted by Michael Delaney
I've had pretty good luck with Sears damaged nut tools. Not sure if it would fit inside the wheel opening. I was able to remove the differential fill plug on my Toyota truck that had rounded of with a six point socket. Yes, it was that tight. I was actually surprised when it came loose.