Scantool Diagnostic Interface Results Thread
#17
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,879
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From: Pasadena, MD - Land of Taxes
Jaime... Look at 911Urge's post... See his inputs?... It shows the switches in the correct position. WOT - OFF.... Idle - ON
I'm wondering why yours is reversed from that.
According to the inputs you've show... I would think that you have the pedal floored at wide open throttle...
I'm wondering why yours is reversed from that.
According to the inputs you've show... I would think that you have the pedal floored at wide open throttle...
#19
Professor of Pending Projects
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From: Orlando, FL
Originally Posted by Smokin
Were you maybe sitting in the seat with the key on, car off and your foot on the pedal all the way down?
But no, I am positive that I was not touching the pedal... Let me try again. I just read again the instructions and it calls for the car to be off and to turn it on when the software ask you to... but I read of folks doing this with the car already running...
#20
My Inputs capture was with the car running at the time so the switch settings should display running or not. I did my Adaptation with the car already running and fully warmed up. I have seen an issue a few times that if the car is running and I select the Climate Control the SW hangs, once I shut off the engine the Climate Contol selection connects without hanging.
I have been taking results and graphing them. I have a mild concern so far at my Ign Advance value dropping quite below others at 3000 rpm. I really would like to see others values from scantool. Car runs like a scared jackrabbit but still.
I have been taking results and graphing them. I have a mild concern so far at my Ign Advance value dropping quite below others at 3000 rpm. I really would like to see others values from scantool. Car runs like a scared jackrabbit but still.
#21
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,879
Likes: 3
From: Pasadena, MD - Land of Taxes
Jaime... The software asks you to start the car??? I've never seen that. I've always had the car on or running and then started the software. I guess it should work either way.
Stephen... I know what you mean... I worry about my ignition being over advanced... I need to check it. It looks like most have far less advance at idle!
Stephen... I know what you mean... I worry about my ignition being over advanced... I need to check it. It looks like most have far less advance at idle!
#22
Professor of Pending Projects
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From: Orlando, FL
Well...they say that the 70th time is the charm... ...after several tries this morning it worked!
Values before it succeded...
The screen I was looking for!!
Since I could only get the inputs to show when I switch the car off... decided to keep the screen on, turn on the car again and just hit update... that worked.
Thank you!!!
#25
Originally Posted by Smokin
I worry about my ignition being over advanced... I need to check it. It looks like most have far less advance at idle!
#26
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Pasadena, MD - Land of Taxes
Originally Posted by JasonAndreas
If you want to compare the ignition advance then the RPM and AFM voltage as well as cylinder head and intake air temperature must be exactly the same between cars, also make sure that the DME units are exactly the same. The early models have different ignition mappings (less advance) compared to the MY92+ ECU software that you are running. Your hall sensor fault is also contributing to your ignition advance.
#27
Originally Posted by JasonAndreas
If you want to compare the ignition advance then the RPM and AFM voltage as well as cylinder head and intake air temperature must be exactly the same between cars, also make sure that the DME units are exactly the same. The early models have different ignition mappings (less advance) compared to the MY92+ ECU software that you are running. Your hall sensor fault is also contributing to your ignition advance.
Smokin - I found this on Hall Sensor 34 error - is this any help??
#28
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,879
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From: Pasadena, MD - Land of Taxes
Stephen... Yes it does!... I was just scanning the Net and it referenced Adrian's book. I need to read it tonight and test the sensor this weekend. Though everything I have read so far says it is probably NOT the actual sensor.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#30
"Good, its a start. Im finding pretty good info on ignition advance, fuel trim and FQS"
Beware of misleading info, e.g. the performance results, and the excessive "pushed"
ignition advance NOT indicated by most/all chip suppliers. Especially on the 964, where
this "pushed" timing results in LESS overall performance when the knock sensors correct
for the excessive timing.
Note: Hall sensor problems usually result from ignition noise problems,
e.g. the spark plugs, ignition wires, & distributor caps/rotors. The easiest
way to check the ignition advance and the effect of the Hall sensor on the
timing is by using a timing light (~ $30). Don't waste time with the testers
to obtain SIMPLE data.
Beware of misleading info, e.g. the performance results, and the excessive "pushed"
ignition advance NOT indicated by most/all chip suppliers. Especially on the 964, where
this "pushed" timing results in LESS overall performance when the knock sensors correct
for the excessive timing.
Note: Hall sensor problems usually result from ignition noise problems,
e.g. the spark plugs, ignition wires, & distributor caps/rotors. The easiest
way to check the ignition advance and the effect of the Hall sensor on the
timing is by using a timing light (~ $30). Don't waste time with the testers
to obtain SIMPLE data.