Smokin

I finally was able to get the diagnostic Interface working with my Porsche. I had to haul out my desktop PC out to the garage but it was WELL WORTH IT! I had several codes that popped up. Some I was able to clear but two of them keep popping up.

First I'd thank all those who worked on this to make it happen. What a wonderful tool... And easily within the means of any 964 owner.

I'll post all the pictures with comments and then get to my problems.

When I plugged in the first time on the Motronic menu I received the following code... 34 - Hall Signal.



I moved on to the ABS/Traction control... No connection...



Then the Airbag...


(I feel safer now )

Then the Climate Control...



Originally the Climate Control menu kicked out, 24 - Fresh Air Flap Motor... 42 - Oil Cooler Blower Motor.... 45 - Inside Sensor Blower Motor.

I was so excited about this working that I forgot to get a screen shot of all these codes. I cleared all codes and code 45 - Inside Sensor Blower Motor... kept coming back.

My input values when cold...



And when warmed up....



The actual values show the RPMs and the slightl lope in the idle...



The RPMs would vary between 840 and 920...



I assume that this ties in with the adaptation levels and their fluctuations...





I have searched the 964 archives with "Hall Signal" and "Hall Sensor" as a keyword. It would seem that there are several things that can cause the Hall Signal code to pop up. I tried the obligatory unhooking of the coils. The car seemed to run equally well on either coil. So where do I begin? I'd like to get this fixed as soon as possible.

EDIT: I also installed new distributor caps and rotors just 1000 miles ago. I am not sure how old the plug wires are. I'll need to go through all the old ROs that came with the car. I know a few have been replaced here and there but I don't recall seeing all of them replaced at once.

My other concern is the blower motor. Is this tied in with the resistor issue? (I've read so much about these codes it's all a blur now!)

I'd like to get to work tracing the problems and then hooking up the interface again to check it again. For some reason I can't get it to work with my laptop using the PCMCIA - Serial card. I'll play around with it some more to get it to work but won't hesitate to buy an old laptop from ebay to make this a little more portable. I really don't want to have to haul out my desktop PC to the garage every time I want to do this. If anyone is using a PCMCIA card to hook up the interface with their car... Can you please tell me what settings you are using?

Thanks in advance for the replies!

jimq

Rick your readings pretty much match mine including the idle range. The 45 code comes on sometimes on mine but the little fan behind the ccu seems to be running ok. I am going to pull it out and clean it to see if that keeps the code off. I also occasionaly get a code for rear blower speed 1.
I got a new one after a a spirited run this weekend about a knock sensor. I am reset it and will check it after i go to Daytona next saturday.

LouZ

Rick

It must have been the weather here in the Northeast! I also ran a diagnostic code over the weekend. Got basically the same readings as you, but only (1) fault - O2 sensor. I find that I get it after a weekend of DE's, so I just erased the code.

I also popped the CCU from the dash and disassembled the small fan, it needed a bit of lube on the shaft, then I got the air can from the computer room and gave the internals of the CCU a few blasts, especially at the sensor. Took only a few minutes and everything was buttoned up again.

ThomasC2

Sounds great Rick! When is your diagnostic tool ready to order?

Smokin

This is actually one that I ordered off the web! I haven't tried the one that built. I need to change the serial connector from male to female to try it. I had to redo the cable for the new one and the one I made had the opposite connector. I'll try mine in a week or so just to make sure it works.

I'd say you best bet is to orderfrom one of the 2 places here or on the web. I think I paid $55 - $60 for the whole setup.

ON a separate note... I was on my way in this morning and hitting the onramp to 95 south from Rt. 50. I downshifted to 3rd gear and started up the slight incline on the onramp. The RPMs were about 3k when all of a sudden I had NO power! It's like it just died... But only for a split second. I blapped the throttle a few times and it came right back. This is like the 2nd time in 5 years that this has happened. I'm wondering if it's tied in with my code for the Hall Signal. (My first thought is YES!)

It's good to hear that my readings seem to be on par with everyone else's. Except for the codes I guess...

jimq

Rick did you cut out the second of the 2 lights on Andys board? (the one towards the center) It wont connect on a lap top unless you cut a leg or the resistor going to it.

LouZ

Rick

Did you erase the code for the Hall Signal yesterday? If so, hook back up and see if it threw the same code again!

Lorenfb

"Got basically the same readings as you, but only (1) fault - O2 sensor."

The O2 sensor readings displayed appear to be incorrect, i.e. they should range from about 100mv
to about 800mv, unless there's a real O2 sensor problem.

Smokin

I tried resetting it yesterday... It kept coming back. It would not erase. I've got some issue that needs to be dealt with.

Heirsh

Grats Smokin! It is a handy tool

bpoteat

This could be a worthless post as I don't know much about porsche engines - especially on the electircal/sensor side but on a newish VW Jetta (2001) I got a similar code and it turned out the timing was off by one tooth. On the jetta the hall sensor measures the camshaft position and it will run when it is one tooth off, but will throw the code and obviously will not run at 100%.

Smokin

Jim, sorry I missed your post last time around...

Yes, I cut one leg of both the LEDs. The posts in the thread mention cutting one leg, cutting both legs and also sometimes cutting one of the resistors. (Which I imagine feed the LEDs... So it's one or the other.) I'm sure my laptop issue is a setting that is not correct. But to tell you the truth... It is STILL worth the money even if I have to go out and buy an older laptop with a serial plug. For $300 I can be set... But I'd rather get this laptop working rather than having a 3rd laptop in the house... I have 3 desktop PCs too! (Yes... My wife wonders about me.)

Smokin

I don't think my distributor is off by one tooth... I'm startiing to lean more towards an arcing plug wire... Either that or maybe the ground wire on the Hall Sensor connector as others have posted about in the past. (I've been searching like crazy.)

The thing is... This car runs like a scalded dog! It leaves me scratching my head.

frankvan

Rick, I noticed in your original post that you couldn't connect to the ABS/Traction control, but that's probably because you have a C2. The program only connects with the C4 ABS module, or so I've been told.
OTOH, I have a C4 and still haven't been able to connect to my ABS (even tried changing resistances on the interface but no joy). Could be just "one of those things"...

Oh, and to chime in with everyone else, I get similar readings to yours at idle. The only error that I consistently get is the a/c (condensor?) fan - which in fact has been removed. The a/c is emptied and am starting to put the car on a diet by slowly removing extras - the a/c to start. The slippery slope begins?

Smokin

Well... After doing a little reading in the archives I started poking around while at work. I noticed a few things about the distributor...



One thing I noticed right away was the split covering on the Hall Sensor connector. (Top arrow) I don't know if the wires are disconnected but I'll check tomorrow. The other thing I noticed was the plug is seemingly missing on the primary distributor. (Bottom arrow) The secondary has a metal plug... I was trying to remember if the primary had a rubber grommet or a metal plug like the secondary. Can someone take a look and tell me?

I'll look into both issues tomorrow and recheck the codes. If that doesn't work I'll start tracing the plug wires. I may pull it out tonight and run it in the dark in the driveway to see if I can spot any arcing.

Any other thoughts?