darth

Rick

Where exactly can I get one of these devices?


Your response is appreciated
Bill
90C2

Smokin

I bought it here....

http://www.ecufix.com/shop/index.php...roducts_id=183

They have been sold out in the past. I think they just restocked.

Larry Herman

We use some laptops for our work and found that the USB to serial cable works a lot better than the PCMCIA to serial adapter. That and the cables are less than $10.

LeRoux Strydom

I have tried two different USB-serial converters, none of which worked due to the odd baud rates required by the DME comms.

Smokin, maybe you posted this before, but which PCMCIA card do you use, and where did you purchase it (online?)?

TIA

darth

Rick

Next question, where does one get the software? Are you using Doug Boyce's as mentioned in the ad?
You are able to reset the airbag/seatbelt light with it - correct? Mine just went off after about a year after resoldering the infamous colder solder joints on the back of the clock and at $70.00 CDN to have it reset and not knowing for sure if the problem is fixed this device would pay for itself right away!

Thankyou for your response
Bill
90C2

ThomasC2

Please, could anyone list what you need to get a complete tool and where you find these parts?
I saw the link above for the interface, but then there is the contact to fit the contact in the car, some cable and finally the software. Is there anything else?

Is it obvious how the software works or does somebody have a "users guide"?

Laurence Gibbs

Thomas do a search on the forum for "diagnostic tool faq" a lot of what you want to know is in there. Also the original and other threads have a host of info. It is possible to just place the cables in the respective holes there are only four used so it's fairly easy.

ThomasC2

I thought I had read every post about this, but as always....search before you ask!

thanks,

Thomas

Smokin

I ordered the card off of Radio Shack's website. I believe it's the only one they offer. Either that or the cheapest one. They are available on ebay for a lot less than what I paid at Radio Shack, BTW.

From what I have read about the USB/Serial connectors... It has to have a certain chip inside. Just any old converter won't work.

Smokin

There are two other interface threads going.... On (now) page 3-4. There is also a thread on the 993 board about this. These threads are where you'll find ALL of the info you'll need on the diagnostic interface. There is A LOT of reading to do... Make sure you have a beer and a meal in front of you!

In a nutshell... This is what you'll need...

1. A diagnostic interface. You can order one in 99% complete form from the link posted earlier. EDIT - HERE You will need to solder pins onto the flying leads in order to plug the leads into the connector located in the passenger side footwell underneath the black circular cover. Some people have used nails, screws... anything that is conductive and is the correct diameter to fit in the connector in the footwell. If you buy the one offered online you will need to cut the legs of the LEDs off. (I just cut mine entirely off.) You will also need to move the jumper to the furthest pins toward the edge of the PCB. Now you have your interface ready to go. There is also a schematic of a Printed Circuit Board (PCB) where you can either make you own or buy them from Colin (cowtown) HERE - CLICK ME!!! I bought one and I built one. The one I bought works well... The one I built... Well I was a little sloppy in the building of it and I think I screwed up a little when I made my own PCB. I was in a hurry. I need to sort this one soon.

2. You'll need a laptop (or desktop) PC with a serial connection. (The connector on the back that has a row of 5 pins over a row of 4 pins! Also called a DB9 connector I think.) The PC must be running Windows 98 or above I believe. Reports say it will not work with Win95. (Maybe with correct drivers? I don't know.)

3. You will need a serial cable that is wired STRAIGHT through... No null modem cables, etc. It MUST be wired straight through. I fabbed my own after buying two serial connectors from Radio Shack.

4. Software. There have been several people who have put a TON of work into this software. Doug Boyce, Laurence Gibbs and a few others (I think) have put together this software and have passed it out to the public free of charge. If you ask me... They could have made a lot of money on this. It just goes to show what a GREAT place Rennlist is. You will find the download link for SCANTOOL4 in the other thread. I'll dig for it later and include the link here with an edit. EDIT - This should be the latest software. SCANTOOL4.ZIP

5. Hooking it all up. When you have it all together you'll plug the K lead into pin 8, the L lead into pin 7, the NEG (Grd, Earth) lead into pin 10 and the 12V pos into pin 12. (See diagram that Jason posted in the other thread... Or CLICK HERE ) You'll need to have your PC fired up, the cable connected to the interface and the leads into the diagnostic port with the pin sequence above. Turn the key of your ingition to the ON position (Or start the car) and then open up the Scantool4 program. If you have done everything correctly you'll see the Motronic drop-down box in the center and a flashing red box in the bottom indicating that it is connecting. It should (If all goes well) connect almost immediately. It will then tell you if you have codes or not. You can use each of the drop down boxes to examine each of the areas, Motronic, ABS, Airbag and climate. It's pretty much self explanatory but there is still A LOT I have to learn about this tool and software. There is also a "Values" button and a few other items such as adaptation. I'll let other who are more knowledgeable explain everything else or better yet... Read the other threads.

I cannot stress enough that you must be careful when hooking this up. I'd hate to think what may happen if there is a wire crossed and then voltage applied. Just read all the threads and take it slow and everything should work well.

6. Other issues. The only other issues that I am aware of is... What if you don't want to haul your desktop PC out to the garage and want to use your laptop. If your laptop doesn't have a serial connection (Most new ones do not) you'll need another type of serial connection. I bought the PCMCIA - Serial card from Radio Shack. I had to fool with the settings but finally got it to work. Others have used a USB - Serial connection but you have to purchase the correct type.

All in all... You should be able to have a diagnostic reader for less than $100 if you already have a PC! I'd like to thank all of those involved in this process Doug Boyce, Laurence Gibbs, Colin as well as all the others who worked to get this stuff together. As I stated before... This tool is well within the means of any 964 owner.

jimq

Rick just a side note you cant read the ABS on a C2

Wachuko

I have got to make one! Thank you for sharing Rick. The summary is excellent!

Gary R.

Rick -

As I have the board coming I appreciate your comments. As for the LED's, i'm a bit lost. Why are they removed? Is there a picture buried in one of these threads showing it?

Thanks again!

jimq

look at my picture in #28. You also need to move the jumper (LK1) on the rignt side just below the 9pin connector to the 2 outside pins.
The LED's take up to much power when running on a Laptop so it wont connect unless you cut out atleast the inside of the 2 LED's
One more thing if anybody needs the little pins to solder on PM me. There is a place local I found them for 5 cents each (Sky Craft Jaime ). If i know how many need them i will go pick them up friday and send them out.

Smokin

Jim... Yup... forgot about the jumper. I'll edit the post above. I didn't try cutting just the one LED. I just went ahead and cut both. They really aren't needed IMHO. I was thinking about adding an LED across the 12V just to show the power was on.