replace glass w/Plexi...WEIGHT SAVINGS?
10-11-2006, 11:24 PM
#31
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10-12-2006, 12:54 AM
#32
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your best bet is to replace the rear window and the rear quarter windows with poly.
that way you are removing weight from the rear - these are realitively in expensive and realitively easy to do. The door glass is great but it will scratch with use eventually. the windshield is great for race cars but with out a coating i would not use it on the street (wipers streak it eventually, etc)
on my car (3mm glass in the side and rear) i will change out the rear window and rear quarters only. if i need more weight savings i might (might, maybe) change out the side window glass.
are you in a coupe? - ditch the sun roof and roof sound deaning, engine sound deading pad, replace the stock muffler system with a lighter one (B&B is ok but no real dyno power gains on my car). Seats, ditch the heavy carpet, pad, & glue. Light weight wheels, the list goes as deep as your wallet will allow.
that way you are removing weight from the rear - these are realitively in expensive and realitively easy to do. The door glass is great but it will scratch with use eventually. the windshield is great for race cars but with out a coating i would not use it on the street (wipers streak it eventually, etc)
on my car (3mm glass in the side and rear) i will change out the rear window and rear quarters only. if i need more weight savings i might (might, maybe) change out the side window glass.
are you in a coupe? - ditch the sun roof and roof sound deaning, engine sound deading pad, replace the stock muffler system with a lighter one (B&B is ok but no real dyno power gains on my car). Seats, ditch the heavy carpet, pad, & glue. Light weight wheels, the list goes as deep as your wallet will allow.
10-12-2006, 02:18 PM
#33
deoxford: I hear you can do the same and cut your rear window as well.
CupCar: I'm getting rid of the sun roof and a bunch of other things. Goal is to shave 300 lbs from the car. That would put me at 2700lbs and 425hp to the wheels. That should do the trick.
CupCar: I'm getting rid of the sun roof and a bunch of other things. Goal is to shave 300 lbs from the car. That would put me at 2700lbs and 425hp to the wheels. That should do the trick.
10-24-2006, 01:53 PM
#34
Three Wheelin'
For those doing homework on Lexan windows.......I looked into Exatec 900. Called Michigan to speak to the actual business. Well, they are not interested in windshields.....too much litigation. "The rear part of the vehicle becomes interesting, especially rear window of minivans, maybe a sunroof...."
What a waste!
On the other hand, I contacted HRP (Hoerr Racing Products) and they have some tough coatings on their windshields. Looks promising. You can get them with the fade tint like oem, also anti fog coat. No antenna tho. Thank you Geoffrey for this lead.
Anybody have other manufacturers leads before I commit?
Jaime
What a waste!
On the other hand, I contacted HRP (Hoerr Racing Products) and they have some tough coatings on their windshields. Looks promising. You can get them with the fade tint like oem, also anti fog coat. No antenna tho. Thank you Geoffrey for this lead.
Anybody have other manufacturers leads before I commit?
Jaime
10-26-2006, 02:52 AM
#35
Three Wheelin'
So...some info you might use when looking into various polycarbonate (lexan) windows......
Long time ago, a fellow from England invented the pencil. Why are we talking about pencils? Because it is the pencil that is now used to measure surface hardness! Ok, it goes like this: There are surface pencil testers that come in "kits". In each kit there are pencils with different hardness leads. There is a standard approach to using this kit and so when a particular pencil mars/crumple the surface, it receives a rating matched to previous pencil used. The range of pencil hardness is:
9B 8B 7B 6B 5B 4B 3B 2B B F H H2 H3 H4 H5 H6 H7 H8 H9
Back to the English guy...in the above range, B stands for Black, or how black(soft) the pencil lead will write, and H is for Hard, or how hard (and light) the lead would write. Not very scientific, but is what's used today. By the way, Nobody know what F stands for.......
Anyhow, Say you are shopping for the best scratch resistant polycarbonate, or any plastic windshield, and of course every retailer will tell you theirs is the best with the highest scratch resistance.....Now, you could ask.....What's the Pencil H rating??? Their supplier should have this information. Get them to tell you whats the Pencil H rating on the hard coating and you should have some way for comparison.
Jaime
Long time ago, a fellow from England invented the pencil. Why are we talking about pencils? Because it is the pencil that is now used to measure surface hardness! Ok, it goes like this: There are surface pencil testers that come in "kits". In each kit there are pencils with different hardness leads. There is a standard approach to using this kit and so when a particular pencil mars/crumple the surface, it receives a rating matched to previous pencil used. The range of pencil hardness is:
9B 8B 7B 6B 5B 4B 3B 2B B F H H2 H3 H4 H5 H6 H7 H8 H9
Back to the English guy...in the above range, B stands for Black, or how black(soft) the pencil lead will write, and H is for Hard, or how hard (and light) the lead would write. Not very scientific, but is what's used today. By the way, Nobody know what F stands for.......
Anyhow, Say you are shopping for the best scratch resistant polycarbonate, or any plastic windshield, and of course every retailer will tell you theirs is the best with the highest scratch resistance.....Now, you could ask.....What's the Pencil H rating??? Their supplier should have this information. Get them to tell you whats the Pencil H rating on the hard coating and you should have some way for comparison.
Jaime
10-27-2006, 12:10 AM
#37
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Originally Posted by ttAmerica RoadsterAWD
I looked into Exatec 900. Called Michigan to speak to the actual business. Well, they are not interested in windshields.....too much litigation.
