Anyone have a DME for sale?
#17
Addict
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Kirk, What seems to be the problem with your DME?
I have a spare Ruf DME that goes with a Ruf MAF. I'm not doing anything with it at the moment and I could lend it to you as you get yours repaired.
I believe the DME is the same except for the chip. I know the MAF has the external conversion box.
Shoot me a PM with your contact info if you're interested.
Colin
I have a spare Ruf DME that goes with a Ruf MAF. I'm not doing anything with it at the moment and I could lend it to you as you get yours repaired.
I believe the DME is the same except for the chip. I know the MAF has the external conversion box.
Shoot me a PM with your contact info if you're interested.
Colin
#18
Technical Guru
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Originally Posted by Heirsh
I suspect my AFM is faulty and without swapping it out with a known working one, or getting someone to verify the operation of mine it will remain a suspect.
Originally Posted by Heirsh
I simply want it verified for stock operation and if it isnt right returned to stock calibration.
Originally Posted by Colin 90 C2
I'm not doing anything with it at the moment and I could lend it to you as you get yours repaired.
I believe the DME is the same except for the chip.
I believe the DME is the same except for the chip.
#19
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"The two places I thought would won't help me (systemsc and otto)."
Never heard this one! That's what happens because of poor communications,
e.g. reliance on emails (Many forget they still have phones to use to get
answers & solve problems.).
Sounds like a mis-diagnosis and not really the DME. That's great because they never
really fail unless damaged, e.g. water, bad troubleshooting.
Never heard this one! That's what happens because of poor communications,
e.g. reliance on emails (Many forget they still have phones to use to get
answers & solve problems.).
Sounds like a mis-diagnosis and not really the DME. That's great because they never
really fail unless damaged, e.g. water, bad troubleshooting.
#20
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Jason,
Yes I can read the voltage output, but I dont have a jig setup to measure the angle of the flap vs the voltage. I decided not to invest the time needed to do this as I don't have anything that I am positive is correct to compare it to (I found some graphs on the net, but it appears its not the same model as mine). I had hoped someone who diagnoses these things would already have something setup to do this. I had worn track on my swipe arm in the afm and when I adjusted it to run on fresh track I inadvertently moved it side to side a bit. I think I've got it back right, but I am not 100%.
I've tinkered with the co as well, yes, but its pretty easy to record the number of turns it was set at previously and return it (which is what I've done). An elbow allen sticking out makes a very nice angular pointer.
Yes I can read the voltage output, but I dont have a jig setup to measure the angle of the flap vs the voltage. I decided not to invest the time needed to do this as I don't have anything that I am positive is correct to compare it to (I found some graphs on the net, but it appears its not the same model as mine). I had hoped someone who diagnoses these things would already have something setup to do this. I had worn track on my swipe arm in the afm and when I adjusted it to run on fresh track I inadvertently moved it side to side a bit. I think I've got it back right, but I am not 100%.
I've tinkered with the co as well, yes, but its pretty easy to record the number of turns it was set at previously and return it (which is what I've done). An elbow allen sticking out makes a very nice angular pointer.
#21
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"I suspect my AFM is faulty"
These units are VERY reliable and RARELY if ever go bad. They're replaced needlessly by many
shops not knowing the real problem plus they're a good money making "sell" for the shop.
They're more reliable than the 993/996 MAF sensor with many failures less than 50K miles.
All that's needed is a lubrication inside (WD40) and regular oil (motor) at the pivot points
of the flapper. Plus, they can be easily adjusted (not MAF) by setting the CO before
the CAT to about 1.5% at 2000 RPMs w/o the O2 sensor.
These units are VERY reliable and RARELY if ever go bad. They're replaced needlessly by many
shops not knowing the real problem plus they're a good money making "sell" for the shop.
They're more reliable than the 993/996 MAF sensor with many failures less than 50K miles.
All that's needed is a lubrication inside (WD40) and regular oil (motor) at the pivot points
of the flapper. Plus, they can be easily adjusted (not MAF) by setting the CO before
the CAT to about 1.5% at 2000 RPMs w/o the O2 sensor.