More Novice Questions
1) In the owner's manual, it says several times not to let the car idle unnecessarily. This worries me somewhat ... what about if I'm checking the oil, or need the car running while I check various operational aspects etc.? Do I have to work feverishly quickly, or am I being too cautious?
2) Since my A/C system is duff, I've been using the power windows a fair bit. A couple of pieces of what look like rubber-backed felt or fabric strips, a few inches long, and about an inch wide, have "emerged" between the passenger window and the rubber trim piece along its base. I've just pulled them out - they weren't attached. Anyone else seen these appear? They look like they may be internal pieces to stop the window rattling, but I'm guessing.
3) In the engine compartment there is what looks like a grounding strap that is unconnected. It can be seen quite clearly in this picture:
Blower and Grounding Strap .
Reattaching this looks like a job I can handle
but perhaps there is a good reason it's like that?4) I'm going to be treating my leather seats with Leatherique (I have some left over from when I rejuvenated the seats in my Saab, which were in a terrible state). The seats in the Porsche are black leather and in good condition, and I want to keep them like that. Please let me know if you think treating the seats is a bad idea.
That's probably more than enough questions in one post
#1: Letting the engine hot idle for long periods of time, that is "many minutes", not just the one or two at traffic lights is bad because the oil pressure drops at an idle and the rockers hammer against the cam, causing high wear.
#3: That strap is to provide a good ground for your blower motor. The electrical path back to the chassis ground through the screws and brackets is not as reliable as that strap.
Oh, and for treating leather, I'd only use Lexol, but concours is not my strong suit.
Larry Herman
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but perhaps there is a good reason it's like that?
1.What the manual is saying is not to fire up a cold motor and let it idle to warm it up.Fire up and drive !! Generally I keep the revs under 4000 until the oil temperature gauge starts coming up.
Hot idle for maintenance ,heavy traffic etc, reasons is OK.
Funny old things these air cooled 911s !! Once you get used to their needs and ways you will never look back !
Now , what does that remind me off !!!
All the best
Geoff
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#1: Letting the engine hot idle for long periods of time, that is "many minutes", not just the one or two at traffic lights is bad because the oil pressure drops at an idle and the rockers hammer against the cam, causing high wear.
#3: That strap is to provide a good ground for your blower motor. The electrical path back to the chassis ground through the screws and brackets is not as reliable as that strap.
Oh, and for treating leather, I'd only use Lexol, but concours is not my strong suit.
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I used the Pristine Clean and the Leatherique based on recommendations on Saabnet - this is not cheap stuff, but it was highly spoken of. The leatherique is a weird organic secret formula
: you sponge it all over, really sloshing it about (at least I did), then have to let it cook on for a while with windows closed and in the sun, and it permeates in and rejuvenates the hide. Anyway, after a couple of treatments those seats were supple, soft, and the cracks were barely visible. They also smelled good :-)
1.What the manual is saying is not to fire up a cold motor and let it idle to warm it up.Fire up and drive !! Generally I keep the revs under 4000 until the oil temperature gauge starts coming up.
Hot idle for maintenance ,heavy traffic etc, reasons is OK.
Funny old things these air cooled 911s !! Once you get used to their needs and ways you will never look back !
Now , what does that remind me off !!!
All the best
Geoff
Thanks for the reassurance Geoff ... now all I need to know is how take the car legally to over 4000 revs (which I understand from another thread is good for it) on the streets of Pasadena

Welcome to Rennlist.
Marc
That is the engine lid hinge ground strap.
The PO may have removed the rear engine lid at one time or they had the problem with the ignition wires running from the coils to the distributors chafing on the ground strap. Porsche rerouted the strap after April 15, 1991 on the production line and that stopped some of the christmas tree light problems that owners were having. When you reconnect the strap route it on the inside of the hinge exactly like the following picture.

Do you think that looks OK?
Ignition Cables - Chafe on Ground Strap, and MIL ON
March 10, 1992
Model
911 C2/C4
Part Identifier
2855
Group
2
Number
9201
Subject: Ignition Cables
Chafe on Ground Strap
ATTENTION: Service Manager/Service Technician
Models Affected: 911 Carrera 2/4 Model years '89 (K), '90 (L) and'91 (M)
Concern: Ignition cables from the ignition coils to the ignition distributors may chafe on left engine lid hinge ground strap.

(Former Routing)
Figure 1

(New Routing)
Figure 2
From VIN:
96 - MS 41 1509 - Coupe
96 - MS 44 0726 - Targa
96 - MS 46 2089 - Cabriolet
General Information: The ground strap on the left engine lid hinge could contact the ignition wires on vehicles prior to the above VIN'S. This could lead to chafing on the ignition wires and/or warning symbols lighting up (usually ABS and central warning).
Repair Information: The routing of the ground strap should be checked and, if necessary, changed when the vehicle is in the workshop for normal service or other repairs.
Work Procedure: Loosen ground strap on body.

Tighten ground strap on body. Strap mounting terminal should point forward with strap looped to the rear.
Minimum clearance between ignition wires and ground strap should be 15 mm with engine lid closed.
Replace chafed ignition wires where necessary.
Note: The function of the ignition circuits 1 and 2 must be checked every time the ignition wires are pulled off during repair and maintenance work. Refer to 911 Carrera 2/4 Workshop Manual, Volume 1, page D24/28-27.


