Clutch roll pin
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
Clutch roll pin
I have searched - but "clutch roll pin" is mentioned a lot, so finding one that has the part number isn't easy.
I've had my pedals out before, so know how to do that. But I would like to know :
1) How do I remove / replace the roll pin? Do I punch it out or drill it out or something? Hammer the new one in?
2) What else do I need to replace? I seem to recall mention of bushes? Or do I just stick some grease in and add a new pin.
I've had my pedals out before, so know how to do that. But I would like to know :
1) How do I remove / replace the roll pin? Do I punch it out or drill it out or something? Hammer the new one in?
2) What else do I need to replace? I seem to recall mention of bushes? Or do I just stick some grease in and add a new pin.
#2
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Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
There is a tool called, of all things, a roll pin punch. I pushed mine back in using channel-lock pliers. The end is tapered just enough to let it start. Early 911s had plastic bushings, and those definatelely needed to be upgraded to oilite bronze. Not sure what they used on the 964, but oilite bronze is a permanent fix for any problems with pedal bushings.
#4
There are some thin wall plastic bushings in there. I've heard it mentioned brake fluid tends to eat them up. Strange design. I replaced mine when I pulled my pedal assembly apart. The bushings looked ok, but I hadnt heard of the brake fluid eating them at that point.
#5
Race Car
Thread Starter
It doesn't move up fully - it's the famous hanging clutch. Gets to the start of free play and often stays there without coming up the rest of the way. Also doesn't feel that smooth in the free play area.
I had new clutch, master and slave last month so I figure it can only be the roll pin.
I had new clutch, master and slave last month so I figure it can only be the roll pin.
#7
Race Car
Thread Starter
I don't think so. I thought the roll pin was an actual pin - which clamped the end of the clutch pedal to the shaft.
There are only two pedals in your picture - are you sure that's not a picture from an (clutch-less) automatic?
There are only two pedals in your picture - are you sure that's not a picture from an (clutch-less) automatic?
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#8
That's the diagram from PET for a 1990 manual trans car - the accelerator pedal is on a seperate diagram. Part 2 is 964.423.078.00 - Clutch Pedal. There are three different part nos. for RHD clutch pedals, depending on year (-90, 91, 92-), so maybe that makes a difference.
Looking at it again, maybe the roll pin is part 8, which looks like it holds the lever mechanism on to the end of the clutch pedal shaft.
Looking at it again, maybe the roll pin is part 8, which looks like it holds the lever mechanism on to the end of the clutch pedal shaft.
#9
Race Car
Thread Starter
Yes - 8 looks promising.
It's interesting that there are differences for 90, 91 and 92. I didn't know that - although don't later cars have a footrest bit next to the clutch pedal? Maybe that's why.
It's interesting that there are differences for 90, 91 and 92. I didn't know that - although don't later cars have a footrest bit next to the clutch pedal? Maybe that's why.
#11
Race Car
Thread Starter
Hmm - I remember seeing threads before where people used a bolt. It is extremely tempting - sounds a lot easier than a pin. And easier to replace in future if necessary.
So how do I get the old one out? Time to use the drill?
So how do I get the old one out? Time to use the drill?
#12
Davek,
If you find a proper sized bolt you may be able to use it as a punch to hammer the roll pin out. You may find the pin missing, or partially destroyed, in which case you'll just have to see.
As I recall its a pretty soft roll pin. If you knew the size beforehand to get one in a dowel or a stripper pin with a cotter pin could be an excellent alternative. Bolt should work as well, but if you can find something smoother like a shoulder bolt or other pins they may work better. Do the threads of the bolt have a chance to eat into anything its pressing against? I just dont recall.
If you find a proper sized bolt you may be able to use it as a punch to hammer the roll pin out. You may find the pin missing, or partially destroyed, in which case you'll just have to see.
As I recall its a pretty soft roll pin. If you knew the size beforehand to get one in a dowel or a stripper pin with a cotter pin could be an excellent alternative. Bolt should work as well, but if you can find something smoother like a shoulder bolt or other pins they may work better. Do the threads of the bolt have a chance to eat into anything its pressing against? I just dont recall.
#14
Race Car
Thread Starter
Andrew - yes, it is that part. As for "is the labour difficult" - I guess I can tell you that in a week or two.....
I am thinking about attempting it at the end of next week.
I am thinking about attempting it at the end of next week.
#15
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Dave: Yes, the roll pin is #8. In the States,you can buy the pin and bushings for very small amount of money (<$5?) at Pelican.com. Although I believe this to be a fairly easy DIY, I asked my mechanic to change the pin and bushings while he was also doing some other work. But he reported the pin and bushings didn't need changing. As for your hanging pedal problem, I, too, had that problem. First flushed and refilled transmission fluid with Mobil 1. Had minimal effect. Then changed the clutch slave cylinder and the hydraulic hose. Haven't had a hanging-pedal problem since although it could have been sheer coincidence.