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Racecar Project - Going for Chassis Setup

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Old 06-15-2006, 08:30 PM
  #16  
chancecasey
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Whose ____ do I have to _____ to drive it?
Old 06-15-2006, 10:38 PM
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Geoffrey
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Here is a larger picture. Unfortunetly the front spoiler is off the car since it won't go on the trailer without scraping so it gets removed. I have a few more things to finish on the car before it is ready to drive, but it is so close.

"Whose ____ do I have to _____ to drive it?"
I guess you'd have to be in the right place at the right time...


Old 06-15-2006, 11:37 PM
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Larry Herman
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Hey Geoff, I'd be available to co-drive for an enduro. My credentials are posted elsewhere on the list!

BTW the car is just killer. You may very well have the GT1R boys looking over their shoulders.
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Old 06-16-2006, 06:51 AM
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Awsome!!!
Old 06-16-2006, 07:32 AM
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AVoyvoda
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"993 front suspension installed in the wide body mounting points and the rear with narrow body control arms"
Geoffrey, why did you decide to use outboard mounting on the front and inboard on the rear? The way I understand it, Porsche used either all-inboard on "normal" cars or all-outboard on the widebodies, turbos and racers. Is there an advantage to mixing it?
Old 06-16-2006, 08:26 AM
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Geoffrey
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All of the factory 964 widebody race cars (RSR, 911 Turbo LM) were built with the outboard front suspension and N/A trailing arms in the rear. The outboard front position affects the scrub radius of the suspension and provides better geometry than the inboard position. In the rear, the N/A trailing arms were necessary to fit the larger wheels. If you look at pictures from a factory 964RSR, you'll see the deep dish rear wheels sitting on the N/A trailing arms. I have the same thing, except I used different BBS wheel centers to avoid the deep dish look since I don't like the Camero on drag slicks look. All 993 race cars (RSR, GT2) had the front suspension mounted on the outboard position. I'm using GT2 Evo hub carriers and tie rod ends so it required the outboard mounting position. The 993 RSR and GT2 race cars also had power steering because the wider track increases steering effort, something that I'll be looking to install this winter using an electric power steering pump and a PWM controller that I need to build. Basically, I set the car up the same as the factory 964RSR, ignoring the fact that I'm using 993 front suspension pieces.

All 993 street cars, including turbo, but excluding the 911 GT (street GT2) have the suspension on the inboard position. While the 993tt is an awesome piece of equipment, I feel that it was developed to be very much a street car and it takes away from the driving experience. It was a departure from the turbos of old and began the trend to separate street car design from race car design. Very similar to how BMW approaches racing nowdays. That trend has manifested itself into what we have today with the C2/C4 cars and the limited production GT3s. Whereas before, any street Porsche had very similar equipment to the race cars, now you really wouldn't think of racing a C2/C4 in any professional series since the equipment isn't robust enough.

"Hey Geoff, I'd be available to co-drive for an enduro."
No problem, I've always wanted to drive an RS America.

Looking at the lap times for WGI, it looks like 2:12 or so was the fastest time by a finishing GT2R car. Seems that the field is significantly smaller than previously as many have moved to the GTC-3/4 classes.

Last edited by Geoffrey; 06-16-2006 at 09:05 AM.
Old 06-16-2006, 09:25 AM
  #22  
Larry Herman
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Originally Posted by Geoffrey
"Hey Geoff, I'd be available to co-drive for an enduro."
No problem, I've always wanted to drive an RS America.

Looking at the lap times for WGI, it looks like 2:12 or so was the fastest time by a finishing GT2R car. Seems that the field is significantly smaller than previously as many have moved to the GTC-3/4 classes.
Nah Geoff, I did mean GT1R. You should easily be sub 2 minutes, just depends on how much.

And as far as driving my RSA, well you can share my'un if I can share your'un!
Old 06-16-2006, 10:33 AM
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Thanks Geoffrey for explanation. One further question if I may:

If one was to use outboard mounting to the front of an na C2, would there be a need for different front wheel offsets? I assume yes, since the wheel carriers would "stick out" more from the chassis.
Old 06-16-2006, 10:38 AM
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The front wheel would need a different offset, pushing the wheel into the wheel well. You would retain the same track, but your scrub radius would be different. I don't know if you can get a small enough offset on the wheel center, but I haven't really tried. I spent a lot of time getting my BBS wheels to fit properly by mixing wheel centers and outer rim halves. On my car, I have pushed everything as far out as it can go and as far inside as it can go without rubbing. I have 10" front and 12" rears and the car is lowered quite a bit.
Old 06-17-2006, 06:28 PM
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robbed666
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Hi Geoffrey,
How far does switching to outside mount push the front hubs out?
I have a widebody C2 (after market modification). My car still is set to the inside
mounting points, but with 43mm spacers up front. Therefore my scrub radius is far too positive. So I'm hoping, by setting the front to the outside position, I can reduce the spacer size, and sort some of my handling issues.

Thanks
Old 06-17-2006, 09:26 PM
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Geoffrey
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I have not measured it, but it is in the 25mm range each side give or take a couple



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