Very yellow!!!!
#33
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Marc Shaw
Looks very good - I'd be curious to head long-term how the Armour Coat works out for you.
Maybe I missed it, but what are you doing with the side-skirts? I recall you had an issue that they had to be removed and re-glued with every oil change, etc. Anything better now?
Marc
Maybe I missed it, but what are you doing with the side-skirts? I recall you had an issue that they had to be removed and re-glued with every oil change, etc. Anything better now?
Marc
It wasn't quite as bad as that. The side skirts weren't fitted very well originally so I wanted to get them fitted better. It's true that if any work was required on the oil thermostat or oil pipes it would be necessary to get the side skirt on the right removed - but that would be true of any fibreglass aftermarket body kit - they all seem to rely on bonding rather than convenient clips like the originals.
The side skirts are now fitted much better - as, indeed, are the bumpers. All the paint anomolies are sorted, dents fixed etc.etc. I'm very pleased so far.
Regards
Dave
Last edited by Computamedic; 05-17-2006 at 02:34 PM.
#35
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
The final stages now. The front bumper has been ArmorCoat'ed and is awaiting fitting. The masking is being put on in preparation for the ArmorCoating of the side skirts and things are on schedule for completion by tomorrow evening.
Looking good for Sunday.
Regards
Dave
BTW in case you wondered, the car sitting under the sheeting behind my front bumper is a Mercedes SL300 Gullwing!!
Looking good for Sunday.
Regards
Dave
BTW in case you wondered, the car sitting under the sheeting behind my front bumper is a Mercedes SL300 Gullwing!!
#36
I hope the stuff covering the car in the second photo isn't the armor coating, 'cos I think you're being ripped off if it is.....
Out of interest - how much of the cost was the amorcoat? It's not something I would have considered - until you mentioned how hard it was for them to get off when they needed to correct some mistakes, and that made it sound like it might really make a difference.
Out of interest - how much of the cost was the amorcoat? It's not something I would have considered - until you mentioned how hard it was for them to get off when they needed to correct some mistakes, and that made it sound like it might really make a difference.
#37
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Dave,
That made me chuckle!! Maybe there's something they're not telling me!!!
Seriously though, the ArmorCoat came from Germany (where it's actually called Seidenfaust - Silk Fist). They bought 3 "kits" which consisted of 1 US pint of each part (parts 1 and 2) so, in total, it was a little short of 3 litres in all. Including shipping it was €300 (about £200) and they've used pretty much all of it although, in fairness, they did re-do the bumpers because they weren't happy with the finish first time around.
If TABS do any more ArmorCoat I suspect they will be better second time around. They had to do a lot of experimentation with thinners and coat thickness to get it right but I'm pretty impressed with what they've achieved.
Regards
Dave
See you Sunday???
That made me chuckle!! Maybe there's something they're not telling me!!!
Seriously though, the ArmorCoat came from Germany (where it's actually called Seidenfaust - Silk Fist). They bought 3 "kits" which consisted of 1 US pint of each part (parts 1 and 2) so, in total, it was a little short of 3 litres in all. Including shipping it was €300 (about £200) and they've used pretty much all of it although, in fairness, they did re-do the bumpers because they weren't happy with the finish first time around.
If TABS do any more ArmorCoat I suspect they will be better second time around. They had to do a lot of experimentation with thinners and coat thickness to get it right but I'm pretty impressed with what they've achieved.
Regards
Dave
See you Sunday???
#38
Super Duper Moderator
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Originally Posted by Computamedic
If TABS do any more ArmorCoat I suspect they will be better second time around. They had to do a lot of experimentation with thinners and coat thickness to get it right but I'm pretty impressed with what they've achieved.
Marc
#40
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Marc Shaw
Would they be willing to share their secret formula for successful application for anyone else who is considering it (but can't get it done at their shop)?
Marc
Marc
I'm sure their reaction to that question would be that they, themselves, would like that too. John Ryan at ArmorAuto seems perfectly willing to give whatever help he can but the time difference between UK and Minnesota made it difficult for them to get help. They took John's basic advice and experimented a bit. The difficulty was knowing what thinner to use and what spray thickness worked best. It seems it's quite dependent on the ambient temperature too so what works best in Minnesota isn't necessarily best for the UK. They initially did 4 coats but found much of it gave a strange finish. They sanded it down with 400 grade paper and refinished it with 2 more coats and that came out fine. I suspect any paint shop could do it - they just need a bit of enthusiasm to experiment to get the best out of it.
If you need contact information for ArmorAuto I have it but you can find all you need if you Google "ArmorCoat".
Regards
Dave
#41
Burning Brakes
http://armorcoat.armorauto.com/
Appears not to be a DIY product. But it sure seems like a great idea. Dave, how much of your car did you decide to coat?
Appears not to be a DIY product. But it sure seems like a great idea. Dave, how much of your car did you decide to coat?
#42
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by DarrylH
http://armorcoat.armorauto.com/
Appears not to be a DIY product. But it sure seems like a great idea. Dave, how much of your car did you decide to coat?
Appears not to be a DIY product. But it sure seems like a great idea. Dave, how much of your car did you decide to coat?
We did start with the intent of doing the whole car but the shop's nervousness about the difficulty to rework problem areas gave rise to a decision to just do the critical parts. So we finally did the full length of the side skirts, the full front bumper, the leading edges of the rear bumper (immediately behind the rear wheels), the headlamp rims, the door mirrors and the brake light spoiler and rear spoiler (coz they were in the spray booth at the same time). I didn't feel it necessary to do the front part of the bonnet although everybody was telling me that it could be done without a noticeable line. I've never got stone chips on the bonnet so I decided to pass.
We're all eager to see how it performs but I can tell you that hitting the bumper pretty hard with a screwdriver handle made no impact whatsoever!!! I can assure you though that the test was done BEFORE the final coats were done (just in case it didn't work!!). It also seems to make the paintwork very resistant to "keying" attack too. Time will tell.
Regards
Dave
BTW Darryl, you're right, it's NOT a DIY product. It's equivalent to a 2K paint with cyano acrylic content I believe. Also the product goes hard in the gun in less than an hour so you have to get a move on!!
#43
So you added 3 kilos at the lower part of your car at least (i guess almost all vapourized during the spray)
Just kidding, I am not weight freak (not with my car at least)
Just kidding, I am not weight freak (not with my car at least)
Last edited by Henrik Hammarvid; 05-18-2006 at 01:58 PM. Reason: typo
#44
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Henrik Hammarvid
So you added 3 kilos at the lower part of your car at least (i guess almost all vapourized during the spray)
Just kidding, I am not weight freak (not with my car at least)
Just kidding, I am not weight freak (not with my car at least)
Regards
Dave