kgorman

Well, the front rotors went on smooth as silk, but damn, I rounded out the drivers rear top Allen lug for the caliper. I tried everything, but it's not budging. I tried soaking in silicone spray, using a torx bit. I actually twisted my craftsman hex socket (you wouldn't believe it, it's actually twisted 20deg) and broke a socket extension clean in half. Clearly this bolt has never been loosened since day 1.

Anyone have a better idea? Perhaps just take it to a shop at this point. I just don't want to admit failure darnit.

KirkF

Heat will make the difference. Get a torch on it and get it as hot as you can.

I cant remember what that bolt looks like, but if you can put a set of vise grips on it, try that and lots of heat.

Kirk

hawk911

yup; heat works wonders. The right rear camber adjustment screw was "welded" when the shop did my RS alignment and they broke 2 tools trying to get it loose. Used some heat and it broke loose right away.

jimq

This is what I went thru and how I got it off
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...=brake+caliper

Indycam

" I rounded out the drivers rear top Allen lug"
Rear caliper bolt will not break loose ? Rounded out the bolt head ?
You are big time , "R" hosed !
Time for a drill . Lucky you , the rounded hole will be just like a center punch .
Drill the head off , remove caliper , hope the rest off the bolt can be unscrewed .

KirkF

I agree, if you drill off the head of the bolt, and get the caliper out of the way, the rest will likely come out easily. Use a bit the size of the allen key you were using, when you get deep enough the head will just snap off.
Remove caliper and get a set of vise grips on the remaining piece. It will likely be quite loose.

Kirk

shophobbit

Not sure if this would fit as I have not been back there yet. But if you can get one the extractors that fit over the allen head they work pretty well. The flutes inside the tool bite into the outside of the head. I have used these on numerous occasions, great tool.

Check Sears item #00952160000 Mfr. model #52160

pete000

"Oh" this does not sound like fun...

Mine were tight as heck. I heated the alloy around the bolt and used a 1/2 inch drive allen socket. When that puppy went "Click" I was one happy boy...


The only other bolts that are on tighter are the lower shock bolts. They take a 4 foot pipe extention to crack !....

Good luck my friend.

KirkF

I had to use my 3/4 drive and an 8 foot bar to break my rear axle shaft nuts loose. I think the torque spec is something like 350 ft/lbs.

Kirk

kgorman

So I finally punted on removing the rear disks today, I just put in the new pads, and I will go bed them tomorrow and see how it goes. I needed some time to think about this issue. It's a darn hard one. I will try heat. I am very sure vice grips are going to do no good whatsoever, those suckas are on there good if I ruined a craftsman tool on it! I might consider drilling it, but not until after thill on thursday, lets just hope the deposits were the worst on the fronts and I am ok for the track day. The fun never ends! We will see after I bed the pads in and I will reasses what I need to do.

darth

Ideally you want to heat the threaded part the bolt goes into while keeping the bolt as cool as possible. Think of how the cowboys use to heat the metal ring to expand it before putting it over the wooden wagon wheel then cooling it so that it contracted and clamped to the wooden wheel. Sometimes hitting the bolt head along the side with a drift in the direction to loosen the bolt helps. The tangential force along with the vibration the impact causes loosens things. Also keep in mind you don't want to get the caliper too hot as there are rubber seals in there that could melt or deform from heat.

Bill
90C2

Chris M.

Did you try one of those devices that's used specifically for rounded off bolts? It looks like a normal socket set but each socket has little teeth in it that grab the rounded bolt. Can't think of the proper name. I think I got one for about $20.

c

warmfuzzies

Another little trick for stuborn bolts is to actually try to tighten them first, before you give it the full monty.

kevin

kgorman

warmfuzzies, I tried tightening first, no dice.

Indycam

Hiya Kgorman
Just to make sure we are talking the same bolt . This is the allen head bolt that is hidden from view , that needs to be gotten at deep in a hole ? The one down a tube in the rear suspension ? The one you can not get at in any way shape or form other than with a long allen driver ? Is that the one ?