964Clifton

I'm sure this has been posted before but I'm tackling the valve adjustment for the first time. When removing the spark plugs, how do you get the #6 plug out when the steering pump is on the way - on the right side of the engine? Do you have to remove the steering pump or can you maneuver the plug with it in place? Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

chris walrod

The best way, IMO, is to remove the RHS engine tin get it from the bottom. Exhaust may have to be removed to get at the RHS tin. Not fun, but rewarding once its done

garrett376

Definitely go from the bottom - for all of it - plugs, valves, etc. It's really quite a simple process when done laying on your back

964Clifton

I saw an article in p-car that describes removing the engine shroud first but it was for a 993. Is this the same procedure for the 964?

garrett376

Yup - remove all the exhaust, heat shields, sheet-metal, and then you've got plenty of room for access from below. You don't need to do anything from above with regards to changing out the plugs. Have fun!

nirich

wooohoooooooo........i am going to change my plugs very soon so that information is very useful and timely thanks garrett376!

964Clifton

Thanks guys

Heirsh

I got mine out with several different lengths of 1/4" extensions. The one I removed the plug with has a little slide on it that locks it to the socket. Without pulling the slide it will not come loose from the socket. This way nothing falls in (well not the plug or socket anyway).

I have not tried going from the bottom, but had only a bit of trouble with this plug and valve due to the darn ps pump!

nirich

garret376.....when you remove the entire exhaust are there any gaskets or other parts that will need replacing from removing the exhaust?

Wachuko

If you buy the maint kit it will include the gasket for the catalytic converter... all others are the metal-reusable kind... no kit? just buy the gasket for the catalytic converter and you should be fine.

Also agree with the rest of the folks here. Best to do it from the bottom after removing the exhaust, shields, tray, etc. And you might want to consider leaving a few of those out to make it easier next time... also gives you more motivation to keep that engine looking nice and staying clean... it does for me.

964Clifton

I just removed cat and muffler last night along with engine cover and shroud from top and bottom. It really makes an incredible difference on the amount of room you have to work with along with the fact that you have the car raised. You will essentially work from the bottom. Just takes some time in removing all those 10mm nuts. For me I had to Dremmel out two bolts that were rusted through that held the tray under the cat to disconnect it - a painstaking process.

I did buy the kit from Pelican parts and it includes one new gasket and four new nuts and bolts for the cat.

nirich

Thanks for the info guys.
I am impatient to get this done but time is the problem.

Silvertarga

I just completed the distributor. plug wire and plugs work, Removing the engine tin from the 4/5/6 bank is definitely the way to go...its nearly impossible to get the top 6 plug out from the top (using the factory wrench is probably the only way and thats still a tight fit!)

and have some engine cleaner and paint on hand, might as well tidy it up!

For the plugs there is a Magnetic 5/8 socket available that comes in mighty handy...I tried the duct tape on the socket trick which was ok but still dropped #5 plug when backing out...a major PITA. fished it out with a magnetic retrieval tool

I also did plug wires (since I was doing everything else I figured those needed to go...found insulation missing on some parts that you could Not see from the top!!)

Its not a job I would try to do in a day and much better when you are not under time constraints!