dont even get me going on silicone fluid !!!!!!!!!

listen to the experts , not the "custom" shops/magazines

 

the spring like sheath over the rubber lines is oem and there to prevent road or track debris from slicing the rubber lines causing the catastropic failure so often mentioned in these discussions. It does nothing to support the hydraulic pressuere in the lines.

I agree w/ Geoff, 99 out of 100 wouldn't be able to tell the difference between ss and rubber and ss needs more inspecting than rubber, though both do need to be inspected regularly.

 

bill , why have you quoted me , only to give the same information ???

 

ian, you didn't say anything about the possibility of brake lines being 'sliced' causing catastrpohic failure....unless ballooning means something different up North? Why such attention to detail?

 

Teflon/braided lines are just hype and in fact much less safe than stock rubber lines.

Geoffrey,

4 channel ABS on a 964?

Chris Cervelli
Premier Motorsports

 

4 channel ABS from a 993TT with a 993GT2 racing brain using a wire harness from a wrecked 993 RSR running in standalone mode with wheel speed sensors also going back to the MoTeC ADL dash and then with the new Version 3 software, the ADL dash sends wheel speeds to the M800 via CAN for functions like pit speed limiting and traction control.

 

What do you mean by standalone mode? Have you successfully used the ABS sensors simultaneously for the Motec and for the ABS control unit?

Version 3 ADL software allows CAN output?

Chris Cervelli
Premier Motorsports

 

ECU Version 3 software (Still in Beta) allows bidirectional CAN messages between an Mx00 ECU and the ADL 1 or ADL 2. The current version 2 software only allows the ECU to send CAN messages to the ADL 1 or ADL 2. The improvement of Version 3 software basically means that I can use the 4 wheel speed inputs from the ADL and the ADL's internal reluctor adaptor to convert mag (ABS) waves to hall effect waves rather than trying to get the ECU, which does not like mag input, to read wheel speeds.

I have not tried to use the factory mag sensors sending voltage to both the ABS unit and another device. This is an open question in the project, and in fact, MoTeC says not to do this, but I believe this is more a liability statement than a functionality statement. I realize there is a voltage drop across a device (ABS Controller and ADL in this case), however, since the mag sensors produce voltage and the ADL needs only 600mA to trigger I'm thinking that if I have any issues, it will be at very low speeds. The sensors produce about 1.5v when the wheel is spun by hand at probably 3-4mph. I don't think there will be an issue, however, it is something that will need to be worked out.

By stand alone I mean the ABS wire harness has been removed from the damaged RSR chassis harness. I'll need to repair it, determine the pinout for power ground, rewire the wheel speed lines and shields, provide power to the large fuse and relay assemblies for the hydraulic pump, ABS pump, and brain, and provide the correct lines to the diagnostic port so the system can be correctly tested and bled properly.

I don't want anyone to think that I'm approaching this with a cavilar attitude, I'm not, I'm approaching this using a thoughtful process. What is the worst that happens? The ADL disrupts the signal to the ABS brain and causes it to react unpredictably which is a dangerous situation. However, I will be wiring in an ABS shut off switch from a 964 Cup car so the ABS can be enabled or disabled. During testing, the ABS will be tested in a thorough, controlled manner. Assuming testing is successful, then the system can begin to be used with some caution until it proves reliable. If it fails, then the MoTeC can be removed and alternative solutions for wheel speed can be sought after.

 

christer ,
i'm talking about regular inspection here !!! ie: after every outing .
for a good brake hose to become damaged to failure would involve something catostrophic happening whilst using the car , something big enough that the driver would notice !!!!!

i'm not trying to be arsey , it just gets on my nerves that "experts" sell you things you dont really need , even more so when it involves safety things such as brakes !!!

attension to detail ?? of course
my brakes where checked be me , a mechanic friend , and finally 9m before i drove the car !!

having had brake failure at 70+mph in a bitsa****ty turbo , i kinda like brakes that brake

 

not to steal the thread, but I get the distinct impression SS lines are wastes of money. Did I spend the money for nothing? Are they that bad that a nice looking SS line isn't worth the compromise for the weekend driver?

 

A few of questions please, Geoffrey:
a) Is the ABS racing brain (the 4 channel version) suitable for street? And, if it is, is it worth having, assuming one can find it?
b) Is the 4 channel ABS compatible with a standard ABS hydraulic unit, without major surgery?
c) Does the 4 channel ABS "plug and play" into a normal 2WD? I believe there is a difference in the 2WD (35 pins) and 4WD (55 pins) ABS pin connector. Since the racing brain first appeared in a '96 993 4WD Turbo, I assume it must have the 55 pin conenctor. But if the number of pins are different (20 more pins than you'd have in your 2WD racer), what did do you do with the extra pins?
Many thanks

 

a) The 993TT/C4S street brain works excellent on the street, for that matter, so does the factory 964 3 channel. I do not know what the advantage of using the racing brain on the street is. The applications are different - safety vs performance. The brain has been calibrated for a lighter car with slick tires. It pulses much faster and there are some other differences in operation. The brain is very hard to find and has not been produced for some time. I'm actually hoping mine works as I've not yet tested it.

RE the stainless lines, if you have them, I'd leave them and replace them after 2-3 years since you can't visually inspect them.

b) There are different part numbers listed for street vs race master cylinder and hydraulic parts, however, I know the racing brain works with the street parts. What are you giving up??? I don't know.

c) No, the entire braking systems and components are different between 2wd and awd. The 993 4 channel ABS-4 system found in the street cars and racing cars use an 88pin connector similar to the 88pin ECU connector found on the 993. Only 38 of the 88 pins are used, so the remaining ones are empty in the connector.

 

Geoffrey, awesome transmission project...and I'm sorry I came in so late on it.

I JUST pulled my engine/trans. last week and am planning to go through the transmission for no other reason than to refresh synchros, etc. and I'm amazed at the price for steel synchros, it's heinous!

Figuring that I've gotten along this far with factory brass synchros, I may just stick with 'em.

If you wouldn't mind sending me a PM, I'd like to get a few questions across regarding sourcing of parts and maybe some tips/advice...when you get a chance to crawl out from underneath that masterpiece.

 

hawk
i just replaced both my rears with genuine parts . i could have got a set of goodridge for the same price .
just keep an eye on yours as some hame inox fittings , some are just zinc'd steel and can rot/sieze in place .

 

hawk
i just replaced both my rears with genuine parts . i could have got a set of goodridge for the same price .
just keep an eye on yours as some have inox fittings , some are just zinc'd steel and can rot/sieze in place .