Child's carseat top/center anchor install: my first how-to
10-19-2005, 12:12 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Child's carseat top/center anchor install: my first how-to
(Here goes...my first how-to post)
I finally added the anchor. The carseat fits better than it did, but still not as tight as in my wife's jeep. I am still looking at ways to improve the fit, but here is what I have finished so far.
This is an easy install!
Porsche rectangular cover caps: 911.555.627.00.01C ($3.50 each)
Ford anchor: 1C3Z-28613D74-AA ($6.50 each)
Below is all you need! 1/2" socket and 11/16 socket (forgot locktite, two 5/16-18 x 3/4 Grade 8 hex head cap screws and 2 Grade 8 5/16 flat washers in photo)
1. Remove rear seat panel screws (2 #6 x 1-1/2" oval head, black oxide screws and 2 #6 x 1" oval head, black oxide screws). Careful not to lose the washer here...I used cable ties to keep them attached to the panel as 3 of the 4 stuck to the panel.
2. Remove lower seatbelt bolts: pop off cap with a screw driver, then remove bolt. Use thread lock when replaceing. Removing the seatbelts allows you to remove the rear panel from car.
3. Pull rear panel out.
4. Cut into sound deadening material to expose metal frame (about 1" deep). You'll know where to cut as you will feel the rectangular knock-outs on the rear panel. Or, fold up jump seats, cut should be made in horizontal area above seat back, centeres with seat back.
5. Cut tape to expose weld nut.
I could't believe this, but these are 5/16-18 threads!!!
6. Score rectangle knock-outs (from rear), then pry out knock-out with a flat/regular screw driver. Do not cut exposed material on front (not hard to do)!
(in the above photo, the rectangular knock-out on the left had been removed-below speaker)
7. Cut the vinyl in an "X"-this will allow the rectangular cap to fit more tightly as it graps on the sides.
8. Remove bolt and tether from Ford anchor, leaving you with...
9. Install anchors (lip up) using 5/16-18 x 3/4 Gr8 HHCS and washer-I used thread locker here.
10. Install rear panel, 4 screws, and seatbelt brackets (thread locker used on seatbelt bolts.
Thanks to Marc Shaw and William Reinecke for all the help and guidance. I bought a Cosco Touriva carseat ($40) to install. It is relatively tight using the metal seatbelt bracket provided, but I am still working to make it tighter. My wifes Britax Marathon ($250) is much larger, but locks down tighter because of the onboard shoulder seatbelt locking mechanism-really cool-no need for thet pesky metal bracket.
I will update with carseat photos when I am finished.
FYI: great time to install new speakers with the panel out...shhhh!
Pioneer 3-way 4"x6"s ($90)...noticable difference with stock cd player.
I finally added the anchor. The carseat fits better than it did, but still not as tight as in my wife's jeep. I am still looking at ways to improve the fit, but here is what I have finished so far.
This is an easy install!
Porsche rectangular cover caps: 911.555.627.00.01C ($3.50 each)
Ford anchor: 1C3Z-28613D74-AA ($6.50 each)
Below is all you need! 1/2" socket and 11/16 socket (forgot locktite, two 5/16-18 x 3/4 Grade 8 hex head cap screws and 2 Grade 8 5/16 flat washers in photo)
1. Remove rear seat panel screws (2 #6 x 1-1/2" oval head, black oxide screws and 2 #6 x 1" oval head, black oxide screws). Careful not to lose the washer here...I used cable ties to keep them attached to the panel as 3 of the 4 stuck to the panel.
2. Remove lower seatbelt bolts: pop off cap with a screw driver, then remove bolt. Use thread lock when replaceing. Removing the seatbelts allows you to remove the rear panel from car.
3. Pull rear panel out.
4. Cut into sound deadening material to expose metal frame (about 1" deep). You'll know where to cut as you will feel the rectangular knock-outs on the rear panel. Or, fold up jump seats, cut should be made in horizontal area above seat back, centeres with seat back.
5. Cut tape to expose weld nut.
I could't believe this, but these are 5/16-18 threads!!!
6. Score rectangle knock-outs (from rear), then pry out knock-out with a flat/regular screw driver. Do not cut exposed material on front (not hard to do)!
(in the above photo, the rectangular knock-out on the left had been removed-below speaker)
7. Cut the vinyl in an "X"-this will allow the rectangular cap to fit more tightly as it graps on the sides.
8. Remove bolt and tether from Ford anchor, leaving you with...
9. Install anchors (lip up) using 5/16-18 x 3/4 Gr8 HHCS and washer-I used thread locker here.
10. Install rear panel, 4 screws, and seatbelt brackets (thread locker used on seatbelt bolts.
Thanks to Marc Shaw and William Reinecke for all the help and guidance. I bought a Cosco Touriva carseat ($40) to install. It is relatively tight using the metal seatbelt bracket provided, but I am still working to make it tighter. My wifes Britax Marathon ($250) is much larger, but locks down tighter because of the onboard shoulder seatbelt locking mechanism-really cool-no need for thet pesky metal bracket.
I will update with carseat photos when I am finished.
FYI: great time to install new speakers with the panel out...shhhh!
Pioneer 3-way 4"x6"s ($90)...noticable difference with stock cd player.
Last edited by Bates; 10-19-2005 at 12:33 PM.
10-19-2005, 12:41 PM
#3
Professor of Pending Projects
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Outstanding!!! Great write up!!!
I need to replace my rear lap seat belts for something like what you have there... I wonder if the 1991 can be retrofited with the new belts...
Wait! Yours is an 89 with three point belts in the back?? wtf? Did you install those or did it came with the car like that??
I need to replace my rear lap seat belts for something like what you have there... I wonder if the 1991 can be retrofited with the new belts...
Wait! Yours is an 89 with three point belts in the back?? wtf? Did you install those or did it came with the car like that??
10-19-2005, 12:52 PM
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Jaime:
Mine came with these...I belive stock. I have all records and nothing dealt with belts. I may be switching to the lap belts to get a better cinch on carseat.
Mine came with these...I belive stock. I have all records and nothing dealt with belts. I may be switching to the lap belts to get a better cinch on carseat.
10-19-2005, 01:53 PM
#5
Advanced
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
By the way, if you remove the rear seat back you can gain about 2-3 inches of leg room for the seat in front! I did this on mine although I need to use an impact wrench to remove the screw holding the seat back in.
10-19-2005, 02:35 PM
#6
Professor of Pending Projects
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by mingson
By the way, if you remove the rear seat back you can gain about 2-3 inches of leg room for the seat in front! I did this on mine although I need to use an impact wrench to remove the screw holding the seat back in.
Hummm.... I like your thinking... so I can have two permanent booster seats installed (with the anchor in place from this thread), gain a couple of inches in space for the kids, loose some weight in the process.... cool.
10-19-2005, 02:38 PM
#7
Professor of Pending Projects
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Bates
Jaime:
Mine came with these...I belive stock. I have all records and nothing dealt with belts. I may be switching to the lap belts to get a better cinch on carseat.
Mine came with these...I belive stock. I have all records and nothing dealt with belts. I may be switching to the lap belts to get a better cinch on carseat.
I will search on this. I remember reading someone doing this change... I also need to see if my car has all the stuff in the body work to accomodate this change...
Trending Topics
10-19-2005, 09:43 PM
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Child is a relative term-ask my wife!
My two year-old still has her own seat...no booster. If I swap out the belt for a lap only, it will last until she is in a booster, then it is back to the 3-point.
As far as the body work, I'll bet you'll find the weld nuts in place. In my manual it states that the Candian version of my car has the anchors installed. So I'll bet everyone else has them, but they might be covered.
I am still astounded that a 1989 German sports car has standard threads.
My two year-old still has her own seat...no booster. If I swap out the belt for a lap only, it will last until she is in a booster, then it is back to the 3-point.
As far as the body work, I'll bet you'll find the weld nuts in place. In my manual it states that the Candian version of my car has the anchors installed. So I'll bet everyone else has them, but they might be covered.
I am still astounded that a 1989 German sports car has standard threads.
