you have Mangesium instead of the Aluminium later ones
nothing bad there but the later ones seal better as they are less prone to warpage.

 

Are the magnesium ones just in 89 cars? Very cool!

 

Wow Garrett. Great thread and thanks (to you and your wife!) for taking the time to document everything. I'm assuming there's less to do for a C2?
Did you install a new clutch? If so what parts did you use?

c

 

Hi Guys, having just dropped and reinstalled the engine twice in the past 3 days, here's a tip to share that made life so much easier.

To turn the driveshaft to align the driveshaft clamping sleeve to remove the bolts, instead of using a screwdriver as I showed above, it works so much better to use your feet to hold one of the front wheels still, and then with your other foot, rotate the other tire. This will easily spin the driveshaft - much quicker and safer than using a screwdriver. I bashed my knuckes so much, and even broke one of my screwdrivers with that method above. Turning the tires is much better

The Sears ATV lift unfortunately doesn't have enough travel to lower the engine enough without removing the rear bumper, or doing a raise after the engine is dropped. If I raise the car way up in the air with the engine installed, I can't reach it with the ATV jack to lower it out. I find that I either remove the rear bumper, or jack it way up after lowering the engine and tranny from the car. Fortunately, the car's chassis is quite light when the engine and tranny are no longer bolted in, so it's easy to jack up and down. Or, the bumper really isn't that hard to undo either...

 

Garrett - so are you re-installing the engine using wing-nuts to make it easier to remove next weekend?

Marc

 

Hah! Marc, thanks for the laugh
Next weekend is for reinstalling the suspension in the coupe!

 

Garretr,
Didnt see mention of disconnecting the battery as the first job ? As Jason has said unhooking the throttle cable at the motor is best.
Last time I did this job I had a lift so a lot easier !! A shop should charge around three hours for pulling a motor .
With the mention of doing the job twice I guess there were issues with the clutch ?

Good luck,

Geoff

 

Hi Geoff - yes, disconnecting the batter is an important step... it's up there in the first line above...

Unhooking the throttle cable at the gas pedal is not that hard - three phillips screws, an 8mm nut, and an attaching pin and it's off - it's especially hard with a roll cage installed as in the case of my coupe.

On my Cabrio the clutch started to go and needed reworking... the coupe is doing great (which is the car featured in this thread )

 

Garrett,
Many apologies for the name typo - been a very busy few days . I get to look at Rennlist when I can. Yes , sorry , battery disconnect is there . Often forgotten by guys at home .

I guess we all have a different way of doing these things !!but I tend to unhook everything on the top of the motor before going under !
Sounds like you are getting plenty of practice .
All the best

Geoff

 

No apology needed!

Hey Geoff- it would be pretty scary unhooking the positive cable from the starter with a live wire with so many grouding points around!!!

Hopefully I'll get some time to figure out the Check Engine light issue...