GeoC2cab

High,
My car after an oil change is to the top of the level gauge which only drops to about half under hard acceleration, I now have oil leaking on the top of my engine from the secondary air intake pelum.,I plan to syphon about a quart out through the oil filler tube, there are no adverse running problems or smoking, but what else do i need to do to take care of this problem, is it ok to drive it hard to blow it out as a member had mentioned in a previous post, or am i in for more time and aggravation?

horst

I believe you should be ok, but need a new mechanic. I'd run it a week or so, then thoroly clean off the engine, and see what happens.

GeoC2cab

High,
Cool, I'll give it try, thanx Horst., Geo. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Pete in DC

G - my x-mechanic did this last summer. After turkey-basting about a liter out it was briefly smoky but fine after a blowout drive.

Peter
89 C4

Adrian

Very important job must be carried out (well if you do not want any problems later on) if the oil has been overfilled. It is very easy to do. Remove airbox cover and remove airfilter. Put you hand into airbox and check very carefully for any oil residue. If th eoil gets onto the airflow sensor (and it often does) you will have horrendous idle problems. This is very common with oil overfills and the longer you drive with the oil overfilled the mosre chance you have of getting excess oil vented into the airbox.
I highly recommend when oil overfill is discovered that the excess be removed immediately and the airbox checked for contamination. I do not agree with the agressive driving theory having spent many hours in this forum and others helping people out with oil in their air sensor system. Key point to remind your mechanics of, the 3.6L engine takes 11 litres of oil in the factory. There is about 2 litres of oil that you cannot get out during a normal oil drain procedure. This means you will normally only need 9 lites to fill up again. The best way is to fill up with 8 litres only. Run engine until to operating temp and then top it off,
Ciao,
Adrian
911C4

GeoC2cab

High,
Thanx, i have no contamination in the airbox, anything else i need to take care of?, is it actually possible to suck oil out of the oil tank w/ a suction gun from the filler neck?, I have tried w/o success(hose had reached oil). Am I over filled w/ oil if the tank gauge reads almost full while driving? I like to see it 3/4 on the gauge when hot on level ground and idleing which usually puts it in the red zone while driving(thats correct isnt it?) any other suggestions on getting oil out w/o a huge mess and losing 3 quarts of oil? It amazes me(and pisses me off) that Porsche shops do this on a regular basis.

Adrian

The oil level indicator should never read full when you are driving. This is a clear indication of either a sender failure or the oil has been overfilled. Just for info, top to bottom readings is about 1 litre of oil.
Personally I do not recommend using the suck out of the filler cap method. I know some people do this but it is something I am not comfortable with. This is a pressure oil system. I always recommend that you drain the oil out. This is purely a personal and professional thing. We do not allow this action at work for very good reasons and I follow the same standards on my Porsche.
I do realise that this can get messy without the right equipment.
Whilst driving depending upon RPM and temp of the oil, the oil level indicator should normally be in the red and pop out of the red at low rpm to say one third. This is not accurate of course because of all the variable factors involved. 3/4 level indication on level ground at operating temp is high enough in my personal opinion,
Ciao,
Adrian
911C4

GeoC2cab

High,
Thanx Adrian, wheres it better to get the extra oil out from? the thermostathousing or the main drain plug, I really am not mechanically inclined and I dont have a torque wrench, do I need to replace the drain plug washer also? and if i tighten the plug by hand how tight is tight enough? Thanx for advice.

Drew_K

The thermostate housing drain plug is more accessible, but it will pour out a lot of oil very quickly because the tank is vertical. Personally, I would remove some oil using the crankcase drain plug since it holds less oil and it won't pour as quickly.

I would also replace the drain plug washer only because it's such as inexpensive item. Be sure to remove the old washer, as they can sometimes stick to the crankcase or thermostat housing.

Drew
92 C2

MadMarkie

Dang... a few weeks ago I spent 4 or 5 hours pulling my intake apart and wiping out the over-fill from the previous owner... what a pain! This probably is not necessary, unless evidence of oil seeping from the rubber unions bothers you, but I was amazed at how much oil pooled up in the horizontal sections. When I bought the car, the oil gauge was pinned, but I promptly changed the oil anyway, and re-filled it following the instructions in the shop manual. To drain excess, I would recommend pulling the tank drain plug... it is located just in front of the right rear tire. Be carefull... there is a bunch of oil in there ready to gush out. Break loose the plug, then place a drain pan (old cat box or tupperware will also work) under it and continue by hand slowly, until you feel the threads disengage. You should be able to control the flow into the pan by holding the plug centered in the hole, until you have a quart or two out, then thread the plug back in. You will not be able to replace the gasket unless you are really fast with the switch... I don't think you really need to worry about it, just have a new one put in the next time you have the oil changed (after refreshing the mechanic's memory by beating him over the head with the manual!). As for torque without a torque wrench... tighten it good and snug so it can't vibrate loose, but remember the threads will be damaged if you get to aggro. I would also recommend not using the drained oil to top up the tank... use a fresh bottle of the same brand and viscosity to avoid any chance of contamination. I personally like my gauge to run at 1/2 when the car is at it's hottest (like after a run session at a DE or auto-X)... this correlates with about 2/3 between the marks on the dipstick for my car. Good luck, Mark.

Drew_K

Geo, after reading Mark's comment, I wouldn't replace the washer either. You would lose a lot of oil in the time it took to swap in a new one. As far as crankcase vs thermostat housing, I think either will work just fine. If you decide to use the thermostate housing, just follow Mark's directions so that you don't lose too much. It pours out QUICKLY from that location.

GeoC2cab

High,
Thanx Guys, After I get the level right how long will oil be seeping on the top of my engine? I really dont know how to get to that spot and dont wanna screw anything else up, it's not alot so I can probablly keep up w/ it until its gone or until my next oil change when I get over filled again! thanx, George.