Would you like to share, any improvements you've made on your cars. I bought mine last summer, and went a little crazy. 93 Red RS America.
In order:
1. Cup bypass... little louder, saved about 15Lbs.
2. drilled air box....little louder did it myself saved $
3. Cup LWF... spent alot,stalled alot, saved another 15Lbs.
4. New rotors/Padgid orange brake pads.. squeeek
5. OEM cup suspension $!$!, but so nice, so low
6. carbon fiber brake ducts/air intake...looks cool, works marginal
7. RS bumper mounts... saved 6Lbs.
8. RS Seats blk/grey/charcoal leather...$$$ saved about 60lbs, nice fit
9. shroth harness
10. OEM RS magnesium cup wheels..$$$wider,lighter, saved 24Lbs, love them.
11. DAS roll bar.. powder coated red, gained 40.Lbs.. looks great, works great
12. OEM RS aluminum hood..$$$ saved 29 Lbs..and oh so cool
13. Autothority chip,idle stabilizer..$$ cured my LWF stalling problem, well worth the money

I Have removed about 180 Lbs in total. the car feels so much better, removing weight really transforms these cars.
Next? save some money, then, get some ideas from you, for the next project.

 

Rob,

I think you may have the best idea; shed the weight to improve performance. Based on the very detailed performance analysis (posted), the real horsepower gains are slim.

I bought my C2 3 months ago. Stock save the LWF. The cold weather has made stalling an issue. I'm going to order the new chip.

I also like the idea of the 17 inch wheels and wider tires for future activities.

Thanks

 

Hi Rob, I also have an RSA (black) which I have been tweaking and enjoying for the last 3.5 years, although not to the extent that you have! The car came with an APE mass air flow sensor, cheap quality cat and secondary muffler by-pass pipes, Eibach sport springs, and a nice Alpine sound system. I immediatly re-installed the cat (to soothe my concscience and pass emmissions testing) and a stainless Fabspeed muffler (for great sound and an alleged 40lbs decrease, I will weigh everything next valve adjustment to find out for sure!). The factory suspension has been upgraded with Bilstein HDs, TRG adjustable swaybars, Weltmeister strut tower brace, and a corner weighing and alignment to European RS specs. The most recent mod, and perhaps my favorite, was the replacement of the stock wheels with 8x17 and 9.5x17 Cup car wheels, shod with 225 and 255 SO2s. They look great, and seem to stick better than the narrow original set-up, although I will have better data after a few DEs.

I would be very interested in your source for some of the lightweigt goodies you mention... like the Al hood and RS seats. Also, have you thought about converting from power to hand operated window regulators? The European RS had them, but I have never seen a US 964 thus equipped.

My project is really a street/DE car, so the future mods list includes a LWF (glad to hear APE can sell me a chip and idle stabilizer that will work with my MAFS), Big Red brakes, a set of Fikses for track use, and a DAS rollbar and 5-points to go with the RS seats. Once the engine tires out (hopefully well off in the future), I plan on rebuilding it with 3.8 P/Cs, Carillos, Raceware, etc... and perhaps even squeezing in a 993 exhaust system like Kevin did! A tighter set of gears in the transaxle would also help the flat spots between gears, since top speed in the US is limited, even on most racetracks.

Good luck with your future mods, and enjoy that RSA!

Mark.

 

Rob-How about doing these things: 1)Euro RS(also Euro 3.6 Turbo/3.8 RSR) style rear bumper you need to replace alloy bumper beam as well as plastic bumper cover saves ~11# off very end of car, 2)Remove the Lugggage dump and recarpet back of car like Euro RS-saves ~18# You only have to replace the two side pieces of carpet. Original carpet material is available at the Veteran Co. in LA, CA.(BTW I have an original Euro RS rear carpet piece, brand new, embroidered "Carrera RS" in red if you want)3)Replace your steering tie rod couplers with the stiffer rubber C4/Euro RS units or better yet use 3.8 RSR couplers (BTW I have a set of essentially new RS couplers)4) Remove entire belly pan assembly and it's brackets from under engine with the sidewalls that go around engine as well saves ~14# and engine runs cooler. 5)Did you change the front lower control arms and rear trailing arms to the special RS units in your conversion? If not there is something else to do. I'll think of more, gotta go. Email me privately if you need part numbers for this stuff.

 

[quote]<strong>
6. carbon fiber brake ducts/air intake...looks cool, works marginal
</strong><hr></blockquote>

Whose brake ducts did you install? Are they the type that replace the fog lamps? If yes, do they just dump more air at the face of the rotor, or into the eye of the rotor? I'd guess from the "marginal" results they just dump more air at the face of the rotor.

 

I read the posts form Mark and Bill. Mark, my friend converted his electric windows to manual on a US Cup Car and it was a pain. The window winders hit the airbag dash right where the lip of the padding that runs under the radio etc. meets the doors. You have to use the lower dash padding from an old 911, which is what a Euro RS has, across the bottom of the dash. This means you lose your glovebox and have a problem with the carpeting being too short in the footwells. You also need to reupholster or replace your door panels to eliminate the switch holes. My friend did all this and saved, drum roll please, ~3 pounds for the winders and ~10 pounds for the lower dash padding. Best to just eliminate the lower dash padding if weight is your goal but you still have a problem in that the ash tray in the middle of the older dash will not work, my friend put his lap timer read out in this space.
Bill, Porsche cars Great Britain used (still may) to offer a kit to install air ducts from the foglights to the brakes as a Tequipment part. The ducts exit inside the wheel wells through a hole cut in the plastic well liner that directs the air to the brakes. The hard part about installing one of these is you have to run the hose past the oil cooler on the right side of car. This requires cutting a hole in the aluminum panel that seals between the cooler and chassis side. This kit looks like it would duct air pretty well. I have one of these I didn't use if interested <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />

 

Thanks for the input, most of the lightweight parts I found on the Rennlist classifieds. The seats I purchased from FVD-USA, it is the American branch of a German mailorder catalog. They have a few interesting items not found in Performance, or Tweeks. (www,fvd-usa.com,,,1-954-781-7116.........

Cupcar, yes I would be very interested in the RS rear carpet, please e-mail me at Rbtabbott@aol.com

 

Cupcar, if I read your last thread correctly, you have one of these brake cooling kits you mentioned for sale? Email me personally with the details, I'm currently in the market for such a setup...I already have the brake ducts...which as you know, are worthless, but look cool.

Bill, the brake ducts most people are talking about provide NO additional brake cooling, they, in fact just provide more air to the oil cooler and AC condensor...the cavities that these units reside in are closed off, except for the opening that the brake ducts provide, only if you drilled the 2.5" holes in your bumper cover so the air entering the ducts has somewhere to go.

 

Cupcar,
Thanks for the info on the window regulators... sounds like a real pain for little gain (loss really).
I am also interested in the brake duct kit, could you e-mail me at lilnroy@dakotacom.net if Jeff doesn't buy it, or with more detail on how to locate one if he does?

Thanks, Mark.

 

If you want one of the complete Porsche fog lamp replacement brake cooling kits (without integrated fog lamp), the number is 000.043.300.90. Porsche has these in stock in their CA warehouse.

If you have the scoops already, the hardware is available separately as 000.043.300.93. Don't know about it's availability.

If you want the brake cooling kit with integrated fog lamp, that's part 000.043.300.80.

 

Hi Bill,

You're amazin'. Now, tell me where I can find a Ruf "yellow bird" style front air dam for my '87 Carrera-3.6L, so I can add a large oil cooler for the upcoming DE season.

Thanks.

Richard <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

 

[quote]<strong>Now, tell me where I can find a Ruf "yellow bird" style front air dam for my '87 Carrera-3.6L, so I can add a large oil cooler for the upcoming DE season. </strong><hr></blockquote>

Well, when I added a RUF cooler and RUF front valance to my SC, I went to the source. Two reasons, one because they made the valance out of polyurethane, so it didn't split like fiberglass when it scrapped on our craggy, angled New England roads (especially important for a very lowered 911). Second, the RUF oil cooler, aside from being slightly curved and fitting the valance, has oil flow across it, instead of top-down. It did an excellent cooling job. Their 84-89 front spoiler is part number R11 500 503 02. They also have something called a "lightweight front kit" which is number R11 500 505 01, you may want to ask about that. One may be the below-the-bumper valance kit (what I used on the SC) and the other may be the full front cap, which is what I think you want. You can send a request via email to info@ruf-automobile.de, and they'll send or fax detailed drawings/instructions to answer questions. They have a special shipping arrangement with UPS on large items, so shipping isn't a big deal. If you go this route, you'll get a roughly $50 customs bill from UPS a few months after delivery. Their webpage with 84-89 Carrera parts is <a href="http://www.ruf-automobiles.com/html/components911ca.htm" target="_blank">http://www.ruf-automobiles.com/html/components911ca.htm</a>