Arjan B.

Euuuh, sorry

It is TUCSON.........

Gr. Arjan <img src="graemlins/oops.gif" border="0" alt="[oops]" />

Arjan B.

Euuuh, sorry

It is TUCSON.........

Gr. Arjan <img src="graemlins/oops.gif" border="0" alt="[oops]" /> <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Randall G.

[quote]Originally posted by Mark Hathaway:
<strong>***snip***
By the way... I purchased the 993.xxx.xxx kinematic update clutch lever arm, and it is NOT compatible with the 964 (attaches to the pivot shaft via splines instead of a roll pin). ***snip***</strong><hr></blockquote>

Thanks Mark, I didn't know this.

Went into my PET catalog, and learned that with respect to the 964, the updated lever is part #965.423.519.00. This supersedes 964.423.519.00. Don't know if the 965.*** part number would be considered a kinematics update for a 964. Maybe someone like Andial would know? Tend to doubt it, as I do believe 965 owners have had problems with hanging clutch pedals. <img src="confused.gif" border="0">

Arjan B.

Hi everyone,

I drive now for over one month with my adjusted clutch pedal, for over 1500 mls., and it works still fine, no changes.

Just let you know, worth a try.....

Greetings you all,
Arjan
964 C2 1992 Black <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

Henrik964

Arjan or anybody else,
Could You please repost a picture, I have taken everything a part on my car but I
am not 100 which screw we are talking about,
Thanks,
Felix

Wachuko

See if these work, from when I changed the bushings and rolled pin in my car's pedal assembly:

You can get the pedal cluster out without having to undo the master cylinder from the line:





Out it comes:



and here is the little guy we want to get out



Punch it out:



New pin and bushings



Old pin out:



Now to remove the clutch pedal to get to the plastic bushings. Got to loosen this bolt.



Then you slide out the clutch pedal remove the center piece. Removing the plastic bushing is easy, just punch them out.



Press in the new ones:





Some plastic friendly grease and slide it all back in

Henrik964

Great Wachuko,

I will do an edit on your picture to verify with a arrow
Thanks a lot!
/Felix

Rally Guy

Those are great pics. I had my first "911 has stranded me" moment when my roll pin failed. No cluth. No driving anywhere. Luckily - this happened IN MY DRIVEWAY - so I just pushed the car into the garage and went to work.

Two interesting things about this problem...

1. I DO NOT trust the roll pin. It's a shoddy piece of metal, not fit for duty in such a torsionally intense role. I replaced it with a grade 8 bolt and lock nut. Perhaps overkill - but a few grams for 100% reliability is okay by me.

2. I BROKE the kinematic assembly as I was taking the pedal system apart. The "tip over" point described above means that there's actually an bit of a "snapping" action when the assembly is not in the car and contrained by the Master Cylinder and return spring. So, be CAREFUL as you take this apart.

Replacing the plastic part proved VERY difficult - very little supply and had to get one from Germany rush. Still - I was off the road for a week.

Hope this helps someone else who's working on this!

RK

Henrik964

Helps me, I just starting taking things apart, right now trying to figure out which screw to turn anit clockwise. I'm online in the garage, great vecation

Rocket Rob

Felix,

There is an allen or hex key screw in a white nylon/plastic block between the brake pedal and the gas pedal. That is the adjustment screw for the clutch spring.

Henrik964

ok think I got it. Right or wrong, see the picture

Rocket Rob

See the white block in the picture? The adjustment screw is at the beginning of the arrow, not where the arrow is pointing.

Henrik964

Thank You, that is the screw I started out thinking it was but had doubts... I have not done my homework proparly on this and taken the complete thing apart to see how everything really works . Thanks a lot for the help!!!

christallon

Felix,

I see the car arrived. Congratulations. I do remember this little problem with your car at the clutch pedal when I was testing it for that weekend in January. My car is just starting to show the same behaviour. I was thinking it might be the clutch slave that needs bleeding as it does not seem to happen until I have used the car for 30 minutes of driving. When it is cold, the clutch pedal is solid all the way to the top. Let us know if this solves your issue.

Thanks,

Chris

Henrik964

Thanks Chris,

Yes the car has finally arrived, long waiting. I will try this thing before doring anything else. On my previous car this is exactly what i think they did at my mech after clutch rebuild, the pedal was hanging after they put in new cylinders, pressure plate etc. i went back with this issue, after 30 min I got it back an it worked fine after... Would be nice if the guy who bought my old car could verify this is ok after 8 years I think my old car is here on rennlist......