Valve Adjustment
08-23-2005, 11:03 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Valve Adjustment
I've been told that I badly need a valve adjustment, but that I can continue to drive the car until I can get it in for service (two weeks).
Just how gentle need I be?
Also, I'm told that the "correct" way to adjust the valves is to drop the engine. A ten hour job along with the requisite costs!
Is this really the best way to adjust the valves or am I looking at an unnecessary expense?
Thanks,
Dave
Just how gentle need I be?
Also, I'm told that the "correct" way to adjust the valves is to drop the engine. A ten hour job along with the requisite costs!
Is this really the best way to adjust the valves or am I looking at an unnecessary expense?
Thanks,
Dave
08-23-2005, 11:06 AM
#2
Professor of Pending Projects
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Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by dfinnegan
...Also, I'm told that the "correct" way to adjust the valves is to drop the engine. A ten hour job along with the requisite costs!...
No need to drop the engine for a valve adjustment... everything can be done from under/side of the car... have to remove cat and secondary exhaust, covers, and rear wheels for good access... but no need to drop the engine.
Since I don't have the under tray it takes me 4-5 hours to do them all (taking it easy... and having a few shots of expresso along the way)
You will need to replace valve cover gaskets, good time to replace spark plugs, caps and rotors, oil and filter... and do some clean up...
08-23-2005, 11:13 AM
#3
RL Community Team
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Originally Posted by dfinnegan
...I'm told that the "correct" way to adjust the valves is to drop the engine. A ten hour job along with the requisite costs!
If someone told you that the engine needs an adjustment - make sure they know why they're telling you this! 911 engines make a lot of valve noise. If you've got a loud valve, that means it is loose, and it is still safe to run a loose valve - better than an over tight one. You wont burn up a loose valve. If you are in need of an adjustment based on service intervals, or someone who's heard a 911 engine before can tell a valve is tapping louder than his neighbors, then do the adjustment - but don't drop the engine to do so: find someone else to do it!!!
08-23-2005, 11:28 AM
#4
Professor of Pending Projects
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Here, read some... it will help you understand better the work to be done and what is involved. A few folks here have done it themselves. Makes you one with the car 
100,000 service thread
from the DIY section:
DIY Valve Adjustment Experience and Tool List
And here is a photo of my car with the covers removed.... you can see that everything is accesible for a valve job...
100,000 service thread
from the DIY section:
DIY Valve Adjustment Experience and Tool List
And here is a photo of my car with the covers removed.... you can see that everything is accesible for a valve job...
08-23-2005, 12:16 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by dfinnegan
Also, I'm told that the "correct" way to adjust the valves is to drop the engine. A ten hour job along with the requisite costs!
I would personally prefer to do the valves while the engine is out but as others had mentioned it is not necessary. Most of us can do the valves, while engine is in, under 6 hours so a professional shouldn't charge you more than that.
PS. Wachuko does it much faster cuz he has a lift.
08-23-2005, 12:55 PM
#7
Professor of Pending Projects
Rennlist Member
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Originally Posted by Marc Shaw
He does it faster 'cause he drinks all that expresso! 
Marc
Marc
I will time it next time to avoid inaccurate statements from my part... 
I plan on replacing the valve covers and will validate valve adjustment while doing so... now... I have to add the time it took me to remove the cat and tires... since the car is already up on the lift with the wheels off and cat removed...
I will also take photos along the way to add them to the thread created by PC2 in the DIY section.
ok... off to get some coffee
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08-23-2005, 12:57 PM
#8
Professor of Pending Projects
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Originally Posted by PC2
...PS. Wachuko does it much faster cuz he has a lift.
I have a lift now... first three times where done the old fashion way
First time it took me a weekend to do the valves... all that cleaning, getting familiar with the parts, the car, the sound that a head stud makes when poping out... 
... you know... the usual stuff
08-23-2005, 01:01 PM
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
How can I tell if I even really need an adjustment?
I know that the valves were adjusted within the last 10k miles and have gotten feedback from the previous owner that it is surprising that I would need an adjustment now. Especially that I would "badly need" and adjustment.
Is this simply deteremined by ear or do you need to open things up in order to determine the condition?
Thanks,
Dave
I know that the valves were adjusted within the last 10k miles and have gotten feedback from the previous owner that it is surprising that I would need an adjustment now. Especially that I would "badly need" and adjustment.
Is this simply deteremined by ear or do you need to open things up in order to determine the condition?
Thanks,
Dave
08-23-2005, 01:06 PM
#10
Nordschleife Master
He is faster cause his engines so clean ?
"Is this really the best way to adjust the valves or am I looking at an unnecessary expense?"
Have you the inclination to do them yourself ?
"Is this really the best way to adjust the valves or am I looking at an unnecessary expense?"
Have you the inclination to do them yourself ?
08-23-2005, 01:14 PM
#11
Nordschleife Master
Hiya Dfinnegan
Just because they were done within the last 10k doesn't prove that they are adjusted well and or don't need doing again . If you pull the covers off and check with a feeler gauge you can know one way or the other .
I would not be putting to much stock into what the person who wanted to drop the motor said .
You could take it back to the shop who did the last adjustment and ask them what they think or find another shop that doesn't have a boat payment due .
Just because they were done within the last 10k doesn't prove that they are adjusted well and or don't need doing again . If you pull the covers off and check with a feeler gauge you can know one way or the other .
I would not be putting to much stock into what the person who wanted to drop the motor said .
You could take it back to the shop who did the last adjustment and ask them what they think or find another shop that doesn't have a boat payment due .
08-23-2005, 01:23 PM
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Indycam
Have you the inclination to do them yourself ?
I'll review the links provided and think about buying a jack, stands, and requisite tools.
Saving the $$ would be great.
Becoming one with my car sounds attractive too!
Cheers,
Dave
08-23-2005, 01:30 PM
#13
Nordschleife Master
Hiya Dfinnegan
I don't know if the 964 is the first valve adjustment you should tackle .
If you have a lawn mower with a 4 stroke motor , you could have a go at it first , to get a project under your belt .
I don't know if the 964 is the first valve adjustment you should tackle .
If you have a lawn mower with a 4 stroke motor , you could have a go at it first , to get a project under your belt .
08-23-2005, 02:43 PM
#15
I was a little nervous approaching this job the first time but I pulled it off and was very happy when finished. Let me give you a little advice. If your plug wires or any other ignition parts are old and your brain tells you to NOT replace them while you've got the car apart, please don't listen to it. Don't ask me how I know this.....