How to break in a re-ringed engine? 'Go Easy' or 'Run it Hard'?
08-10-2005, 03:52 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
How to break in a re-ringed engine? 'Go Easy' or 'Run it Hard'?
Hi All,
My engine is being put together with new rings, and a top-end rebuild. So, I've always heard that one should always break-in a new engine easily, and that the rings would seat after a couple hundred to a couple thousand miles.
Well, I was talking to a racing buddy of mine who just happens to know everything about cars and engines, it seems. He tells me that the proper technique for seating the rings is very misunderstood, and often improperly done. The correct method of seating the rings is to run it hard through the full RPM range, and to include deceleration. And that break in is best done on the race track!
I talked to my mechanic about this, and he wholeheartedly agrees. He said "Go for it!", and added that I should also avoid lugging it.
So, I did an archive search and find that most people are suggesting that you should baby it. But one person posted an interesting 'Run it Hard' link:
Break in secrets: Run it Hard.
I'm thinking that I'm going to follow this engine break-in advice, and 'Run it Hard'.
What do you all think?
My engine is being put together with new rings, and a top-end rebuild. So, I've always heard that one should always break-in a new engine easily, and that the rings would seat after a couple hundred to a couple thousand miles.
Well, I was talking to a racing buddy of mine who just happens to know everything about cars and engines, it seems. He tells me that the proper technique for seating the rings is very misunderstood, and often improperly done. The correct method of seating the rings is to run it hard through the full RPM range, and to include deceleration. And that break in is best done on the race track!
I talked to my mechanic about this, and he wholeheartedly agrees. He said "Go for it!", and added that I should also avoid lugging it.
So, I did an archive search and find that most people are suggesting that you should baby it. But one person posted an interesting 'Run it Hard' link:
Break in secrets: Run it Hard.
I'm thinking that I'm going to follow this engine break-in advice, and 'Run it Hard'.
What do you all think?
08-10-2005, 04:21 AM
#2
Nordschleife Master
I break in new engines on the dyno. You want to get cylinder pressure behind the rings so they seat against the cylinder wall. This requires a pretty good load and they will seat very quickly. I wouldn't necessarily go full throttle on the engine first off, but a good load through the RPM range will work.after the first 20 miles or so, the'll be set.
08-10-2005, 10:01 AM
#4
Three Wheelin'
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I've always heard and seen engines being run more toward the hard side upon start-up. (At least on muscle cars.) Pre-prime the oil pump (if possible on the Porsche) to get oil where needed and then immediately peg it above 2500 RPM then slowly up the range... Holding it at about 4000 RPM for a few minutes then let it slowly come down. I've rebuilt several ricer engines and a few straight 6s and V-6 & V-8s... I always did this and they always performed well.
Good luck and please post back what you end up doing.
Good luck and please post back what you end up doing.
08-10-2005, 10:06 AM
#6
Nordschleife Master
The purpose of holding the engine above 2000 for 20-30min is generally for engines with new camshafts where they need to "wear harden" and match with the rocker arms.
08-10-2005, 10:33 AM
#7
Run hard!
I just did a top end and re-ring on my 964. I basically followed Wayne's rebuild book for breaking. Basically, startup and run for 20 min at 2K. I ran for 10 min at 2K, 5 min at 2.5K, and 5 min at 3k.
Then I spanked the car hard for 500 miles, but not exceeding 5K rev limit. Full accel, and full decel up to 5K every chance I get. I looked like an idiot driving on the street in 1st gear.
But the car has plenty of power and torque. No smoke so far.
---
anthony
I just did a top end and re-ring on my 964. I basically followed Wayne's rebuild book for breaking. Basically, startup and run for 20 min at 2K. I ran for 10 min at 2K, 5 min at 2.5K, and 5 min at 3k.
Then I spanked the car hard for 500 miles, but not exceeding 5K rev limit. Full accel, and full decel up to 5K every chance I get. I looked like an idiot driving on the street in 1st gear.
But the car has plenty of power and torque. No smoke so far.
---
anthony
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08-10-2005, 10:33 AM
#8
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2004
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On a full rebuild my method is run the motor at revs where the load is light and give it short bursts of acceleration with big throttle.Its the cylinder pressures the rings want, balanced against bearings bedding in.Reasonable revs are not a problem.
What is bad news is to ***** foot around for a thousand miles and wonder why the bores/rings are glazed!!
Race motors generally dont have the time to go through this procedure so they just go.
If you stand at the end of a vehicle production line and see what happens you will wonder about the whole owner, running in process!!!!!
Just my 2.0c
Geoff
What is bad news is to ***** foot around for a thousand miles and wonder why the bores/rings are glazed!!
Race motors generally dont have the time to go through this procedure so they just go.
If you stand at the end of a vehicle production line and see what happens you will wonder about the whole owner, running in process!!!!!
Just my 2.0c
Geoff
08-10-2005, 12:38 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Geoffrey
The purpose of holding the engine above 2000 for 20-30min is generally for engines with new camshafts where they need to "wear harden" and match with the rocker arms.
