ddz

I just became a new member to Rennlist and the owner of an '89 C4. At some time in the past the oil line from the oil filter housing to the bottom of the engine was replaced with a braided stainless steel flex line. Am I correct in assuming this is the line from the scavenge pump to the fliter that's then returned to the oil tank? If so, how much pressure runs in this line? Unfortunately, it was routed over the top of the exhaust and after repeated heating cycles I think the rubber hose within hardened and started to leak. Just a drip or two when I picked the car up but it's gotten much worse(read, undriveable)

I see two alternatives to fix the problem: The first is to drop the heat exchanger/cat converter on the driver's side to get access to the connection to the engine and replace the entire line with a stock item or another braided piece. I'm loathe to start taking the exhaust apart because just about every joint is rusted to the point "normal" means of bolt/nut removal will be impossible(the dremel tool's getting ready with a cut-off disc). The second option would be to cut out the leaking section and splice a braided stainless line section in with couplings. If this were a supply line I'd be concerned about the additional pressure drop across the fix but if its only a relatively low pressure/volume scavenge line I think this may work??

I'd appreciate whatever advice those who have had to replace this line can give and suggestions on good sources for either the stock line or an aftermarket part that would work.

Thanks for your help...

jimq

Dont splice a oil line!
Welcome. Where are the required pictures of you car

Marc Shaw

Welcome to Rennlist!

You'll find a friendly/knowledgeable bunch here - although you'll note by my lack of suggestions for your oil line question, I fit into the friendly group!

Marc

ddz

Thanks for your feedback- the collective voice of conscience that helps make the right versus most convenient decision; you confirmed my own feelings(reluctant as they were with the idea of taking another week to get it back on the road). Heck, it's a great opportunity for me to familiarize myself with the car after all!

As for the pictures, I thought I'd wait until I got the wheels back on...:0)

dutchcrunch

hello, that line you speak of, i too had the same problem and tried to have a specialty hydraulic hose shop try to fix it. to make a long story short they ended up buying me a new one because they did not know what they were doing, they tried to grind down my tubes to fit a standard size hose because they did not have any metric. i think in excellence magazine i saw an ad that states they can swage a new hose for cheaper than the price of a new one. i think it can be done but unfortunatly i had a bad experience. i am sure if you do your research you can find a shop that is capable of doing this, if they never did this job before and i would stay away. the biggest thing is to position the metal hose just right so when its all done it will line up, as it will not twist to much once made. you can mark both ends as reference before you take it off. in a nut shell nothing beats a new factory porsche part. i too like to stretch my money. boy were they pissed when i demanded a new hose as i told them i am not putting that hose that they ground down the edge so much that the tube ends were paper thin, even though the filter would catch any metal that may have came loose. but why take the risk! this tube that goes on the car can not be all rigid, as you need a flex point for motor movement.

perhaps when the previous hose was replaced they did not reinstall the heat blanket that wraps around the hose section that keeps the hose from heat from exhaust. that portion of the hose probably take the most heat as this is where the oil is at it's hottest. i wish that posche would have made that hose with a with that section with fittings so you could take that part out and screw a new hose on instead of have to remove the exhuast and all that other stuff. if you need any tips to replace that hose let me know, it not that hard just a pain in the butt. but can be done.

Jerry Garwick

dd ( or is it dz?)

As much as I hate to tell you this, at some time you will need a good, honest Porsche mechanic. I've got one in Fresno, CA (not that it does you much good) and he can get me genuine Porsche parts cheaper than all of the on-line shops (and much cheaper than Porsche dealers) that I have experienced. Ask around and see if you can cut a deal with such a shop. I had a bad leak from my oil lines and ended up replacing all of them. The long and short of it was that the long term oil soaked plug wires ended up breaking down requiring replacing at much cost. My advice is to chase down all of the oil leaks ASAP and replace the parts with genuine Porsche parts. But shop around and get them as cheaply as possible.

My experience is that these cars are just wonderful, but they are high maintenance. They are getting a bit long in the tooth and stuff is going to get brittle and simply wear out due to age. But when they are "right on" they drive like a striped-*** gazzelle. Now it is up to you to get your "new" car sorted out. Good luck!

toro

Don't mess with "cheap" fixes especially with oil lines..... slightly off thread (so it is an aircooled flat six.!!!) but this is what happened to me whan a generic flexible braided oil line burst and yes they are cannibals and yes I was flying it.....

Greg_L

I had the exact same pipe changed a couple of weeks ago on my 91 C2 (i guess its the same?). It was a hard metal one as IndyCam said. Porsche price was a steep £230, so a german car parts supplier got my business as they sold the same porsche branded part for £130. I have a pic at home which i can post later and i have the part number if you need it.

Bates

DDZ,

I agree with Jerry and Greg_L. I just visited my mechanic in Cleveland (Steinel's Autowerks) and discussed the same hose (part# 964 207 252 14). He quoted me a price of $439 and said I probably could find it cheaper elsewhere. He said they make money on service, not parts, so feel free to bring my own parts in.

My leak hits the garage floor just under the muffler (rear passenger side). I have about 10 drops after a good drive, but oil burns/smokes as I drive as oil drips onto hot muffler.

I cannot determine if my leak is from the oil filter mount or one of the two hose connections. (Photos soon) My mechanic told me the car hold 13 quarts of oil, so a few drops aren't that bad ("it's bad when you can watch the drops", so hold off until next oil change if possible.

Hope this helps. Let me/us know what you find.

DarrylH

Whoever did that should be taken out and shot. Screwing with oil lines on these cars is just ASKING for trouble. I think you're gonna havta just replace it with the correct part, with all the attendant pain - but you'll need to be able to remove all that exhaust stuff at some point anyway, right?

OT, that story from toro sounds interesting...

dutchcrunch

out of curiousity, are the people replacing this line with a full rigid line using an aftermarket piece. i was wondering as the factory had the flex line installed to compensate for engine torque movement. if you are using a solid line how long have you had this installed? seems like over time the rigid tube will work harden and eventully crack? not wanting to bump heads just want to learn .

thanks

Red rooster

There seems to be a bit of confusion here.A solid pipe would last 5 mins max!
The pipe is solid where it runs across the bottom of the motor, clearing the heat exchanger , then goes to flex , then back to solid to the filter.
The flex section should be wrapped in a heat protector.
This is a well known leak source.I changed mine about 4 years ago when the stink got to bad !!!!
Geoff

toro

I posted this on another thread but it seems to apply..... "a few drips so wait until next service" thats what i did and it was only 24 hours until i nearly trashed the entire engine..


STOP........

I have had exactly the same problem last week.... the car was supposed to have a service and my mechanic pulled off the undertray and saw the leak. He topped off the oil and sent me away until he could get the new pipe. A few days later and the night before the pipe was due to be installed it started to let go completely pumping out all but 2 quarts...... 3 in the morning just managed to get it to the shop... a hole the size of a toothpick.. VERY CLOSE SHAVE, could have been a total engine rebuild.!!!!
The problem is that the original pipes are plated steel which rusts from the outside in (obviously) and the new ones (£200.... $360 ish) are plated copper. It is a total bastard to install as the manifolds have to come off, although my mechanic managed to avoid that by cutting the perfect old solid bit of pipe at the top off and using a union attached new part. He preps le-mans RS/RSR types so I trust his judgement.......

I hope this helps...

JasonAndreas

How bad are the heat exchanger nuts on the #3 exhaust outlet? If they aren't a pile of rust than this isn't too bad of DIY (the oil filter console line connection is a real bastard). Otherwise you could try Greenfield Imported Auto. Welcome to rennlist (did you buy the car from your brother?), I think you might be 964 owner #4 west of the Quabbin reservoir.

Greg_L

this is the pipe i had done. . .

kinda wished i'd taken the pic after i cleaned it all up under there